How To: Lift Installation (on KDSS equipped vehicles)

[Iri3Vybz]

Got it all done today. Took a while b/c I had a few issues with a seized bolt.



Thanks for all the advice here. Never could have done it without this board.

So what route did you go? Jack up the entire front or leave one wheel on the ground?
I have all my parts as of today so hopefully I can get to installing soon.


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[jrandom]

So what route did you go? Jack up the entire front or leave one wheel on the ground?
I have all my parts as of today so hopefully I can get to installing soon.


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It really doesn't matter, the important thing is to support the the KDSS piston, strap and unbolt one side of the swaybar at a time.

 

[honda250xtitan]

It really doesn't matter, the important thing is to support the the KDSS piston, strap and unbolt one side of the swaybar at a time.

while you have it apart, go ahead and throw some grease on the bushing that is secured to the LCA. it will squeak eventually. Last service i loosened the 2 bolts, pryed the bracket away from the LCA and sprayed some silicon lithium? (red can crx? brand) lube in there seems to have quieted it down for now.

 

[cheeser]

Right, but the write up for KDSS references his write up and all of the pics are gone. The KDSS writeup was saved as a PDF here, so I was hoping his was as well

Here are the ones I found, in addition to ones I created.

I have the "sp8ball Toytec Top Plate Spacer Lift Instruction.pdf as well, but cant upload for some reason.

 

[tacoyota]

two jacks and jack stands, ratchet strap, 6 pack of beer and a buddy will help speed up the install a lot!

 

[cheeser]

The "sp8ball Toytec Top Plate Spacer Lift Instruction.pdf as well

 

[DragonRunner]

So, for the group of experts:

I bought the 6112 for my 2018 4Runner. However after attempting to assemble them, there was no way to keep the rod adapter and still have sufficient threads for the top center nut. With the rod adapter off, I’m able to get enough thread to attach the nut. I’m using a KYB top plate (KYB SM5640 Mount Kit, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7S0KA8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dVPaEbG8DQVV1) and am wondering if 1) it’s okay to leave the rod adapter off if everything else is in place and 2) if this KYB top plate perhaps has a thicker bushing, etc making the rod adapter incompatible?

Thanks for the help. Was hoping to install this during Christmas week.

 

[PopsSmurf]

So, for the group of experts:

1) it’s okay to leave the rod adapter off if everything else is in place and 2) if this KYB top plate perhaps has a thicker bushing, etc making the rod adapter incompatible?

Thanks for the help. Was hoping to install this during Christmas week.

Man that doesn't sound right. I just put 6112s on today with the exact same KYB parts and it was no problem what so ever. I only went to the 2" setting but it shouldn't matter even if you went to the 3" setting. That adapter needs to be there and in the correct position...not upside down.

I can only think of two things: 1.) you somehow purchased or the supplier sent the wrong 6112s. The whole shock may be too short. 2.) You are not compressing the spring enough.

Personally I just took mine to the local auto shop. Gave him $20 cash to compress and install the springs. Way safer and quicker that going to rent or buy those cheap compressors.

 

[PopsSmurf]

And to follow up with my own installation it took less than 2 hours for the fronts.

6112s set to 2" (Position 4). No UCAs, spacers or anything else and it got me almost 2.5" higher in the front though I'm sure it will settle to close to 2" after a short period.

I had zero problems with the KDSS. In fact I didn't undo any of the KDSS components. Simply removed tires, removed the 3 strut mounting nuts on the top, removed the shock mounting bolt, removed brake line clips, removed tie rod and secured out of the way, removed the ball joint at the UCA. Then with a large pry bar simply put pressure on the LCA and slipped out the old strut and replaced with the new 6112s. Easy! Keep in mind I had already done this once on a Tundra and besides the KDSS it was identical in procedure. Knowing what I know now I could probably do it in under an hour. Took longer to assemble the tools, jack it up, remove the tires and brew some coffee than the actual install.

That being said, If you go any higher than 2" I can see some people having a hard time getting the LCA to drop far enough to slip the new coilover in. I did it solo but an extra set of hands would work wonders. You definetly need some leverage in the form of a very long (4'+) and stout pry bar. But like I said, 2" or less of lift and no need to mess with the KDSS brackets or anything.

One final thing I did notice and had heard from others on here is the driver side is easier. Start there because you will familiarize yourself with the procedure and when you get to the passenger side where getting the LCA to drop enough is much tougher you will know what you are doing already and can put the appropriate force where it is needed.

Oh yeah, besides getting 2"+ of lift the 6112s at this setting also allowed an extra 3/4" - 1" of downward travel/drop.

Good luck!

 

[lowfatelvis]

KDSS lift is easy thanks to all you guys

Just a quick follow up for those still on the fence. Just put TRD PRO front springs and shocks on the front of my 16' trail with KDSS. Two hours total with wife's help. Would have been a pain without the extra help to hold or push here and there.

2" lift in front with both sides on top clip, no lean. Even preload on KDSS runners. I found that on previous post thankfully before I did this.

Used the ratchet strap on the KDSS at full suspension drupe. To reattached, passenger side first, drivers side last using a second ratchet strap to pull it towards rear pulling it back to LCA. Take your time, hand thread several threads in and run them home. I can see where this is a one hour job once you have experienced it.

Have a friend help, several places the third hand saves a ton of aggravation.

BIG thanks to the guys who took time to photograph and document the procedure.

 

[DragonRunner]

And to follow up with my own installation it took less than 2 hours...

Thanks for the update. I too had a shop compress the struts when I asked that question about the rod adapter. They had installed an “extra” bushing inside the coil this couldn’t compress it enough for the adapter. When they re-did it everything looked correct.

When you say you didn’t disconnect any KDSS components, did you still ratchet the piston up before jacking the vehicle?

 

[woodkakado?]

Just finished reading all 19 pages and maybe I missed it, but do you guys not undo the shutter valves when doing suspension work?

Here, the shutter valves get backed off 3 turns whenever anything is done, even installation of a bullbar. Maybe you're doing it and it's an unwritten rule? But we don't tend to use a ratchet strap with our installs as once the valves are backed out the pressure is no longer an issue.

 

[Jivewalker]

Just finished reading all 19 pages and maybe I missed it, but do you guys not undo the shutter valves when doing suspension work?

Here, the shutter valves get backed off 3 turns whenever anything is done, even installation of a bullbar. Maybe you're doing it and it's an unwritten rule? But we don't tend to use a ratchet strap with our installs as once the valves are backed out the pressure is no longer an issue.

I didnt touch the valves. I used a bottle jack under the KDSS piston. The jack made it easy to maneuver the sway bar up/down when taking the end brackets loose. For me, it was just one less thing to mess with and really easy if you have a bottle jack laying around.

 

[KWSRStorm]

Wouldnt mess with the valves. Theres no need. Just put it in 4lo so its a bit more droopy if you want to.

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[Ehahn84]

Does anyone in the Tacoma/Seattle WA area wanna help a brother out with installing new 5100s on my KDSS rig?

 

[DragonRunner]

Here, the shutter valves get backed off 3 turns whenever anything is done, even installation of a bullbar. Maybe you're doing it and it's an unwritten rule? But we don't tend to use a ratchet strap with our installs as once the valves are backed out the pressure is no longer an issue.

Where’s “here?” It’s not an unwritten rule - most on this forum would argue it is unnecessary and can lead to a costly mistake. I know there’s a process in similar systems (Lexus, Landcruiser) but for whatever reason there’s a big push away from touching that hydraulic shutter valve.

Now if there was a service manual procedure, and some examples of it done easily and successfully, you might change some minds and hearts here. My buddy does it on his LC, and I know there’s an Aussie video I watched that seemed simple. I won’t during my install since 1) it’s not necessary and 2) if I count wrong I have an expensive repair coming.

 

[DougR]

... Now if there was a service manual procedure ...

Here is the procedure provided by Exit OffRoad

 

[DragonRunner]

Thank you [MENTION=211123]DougR[/MENTION] !

Now, that is a procedure from an aftermarket shop, not a Toyota FSM or similar. It is the same as I’ve read before, so I think it’s a legit procedure but again I think a lot of folks would like a document from the source, if you will.

Do you know if this allows you to more easily remove the sway bar ends from the LCAs and re-install, or allows you to leave the bar completely in place when you swap out coils?

 

[DougR]

Thank you [MENTION=211123]DougR[/MENTION] !
... Do you know if this allows you to more easily remove the sway bar ends from the LCAs and re-install, or allows you to leave the bar completely in place when you swap out coils?

I don't know the answer to your question. I'm reading this thread to prepare for a lift in two weeks. Toyota's service manual procedure for opening the valves involves measuring valve bolt height as shown below.

 

[DragonRunner]

Just finished the 6112/5160 install last night. Will do a little detailed write up but just wanted to shout out that - for the fronts - I didn’t disconnect any part of the KDSS system. I had the 6112s on the 4th perch (2.25” roughly) and was able to remove the stock shock and insert the new longer 6112 WITHOUT a prybar, a center punch, or a second person. Made it incredibly easy. I found KING instructions and noted their big bold warning “DO NOT DISCONNECT KDSS” so figured it was worth a read. The attached picture shows the 6112 sitting in the tower, no lower bolt in place, all KDSS bars and brackets attached, no prybar holding anything down. It’s just chillin...