How to load Kayak?

Clean and jerk for the win. It's kind of awkward at first but once you understand how to balance the kayak it's pretty easy. Obviously having two people to load is ideal.

I have the Yakima J-Low. You want to make sure you get the folding down type J-cradles if you don't want to take them off after each use.
 

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I have to use a small step ladder but can load mine by myself. It's not too bad as long as it is not windy.

mikeh74-albums-camping-picture28301-photo-6.jpg
 
Looks like a Tarpon 120 to me. I have the same color too lol.

We use a Yakima Bowdown on the factory crossbars to transport. They fold over flat when not in use. You can also have a lock system installed so would be thieves don't run off with your carrier while your gone.
 
I use two foam saddles ($25) and ratchet straps on the rack crossbars. It's easy to load and unload from the back without hitting the spoiler. However, I guess depending on the height of the saddles or carrier used, when the kayak is loaded and tied down I am not able to open the back because the spoiler hits the bottom of the kayak.
 
I use two foam saddles ($25) and ratchet straps on the rack crossbars. It's easy to load and unload from the back without hitting the spoiler. However, I guess depending on the height of the saddles or carrier used, when the kayak is loaded and tied down I am not able to open the back because the spoiler hits the bottom of the kayak.

That's why we have a roll down window.
 
I've just got a set of cheap kayak saddles that clamp to my Baja rack. Loading isn't too dramatic - I stand the yak up on end with it perpendicular to the truck. With the hull leaning on the front saddle, there's about 3" of clearance between the yak and the truck, so I just slide it up the side of the rack and lift the stern into the back saddle. It all settles into place and is easy to tie down from there. The straps around the hull keep it from moving around too much and the ropes at the front and rear are the main tie down points. Works pretty good, aside from the fact that I have the rear rope tied to my hitch and can't open my hatch.
<a href="http://s1262.photobucket.com/user/kelseyreder/media/IMG_2042_zpskqvcqxsm.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1262.photobucket.com/albums/ii615/kelseyreder/IMG_2042_zpskqvcqxsm.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_2042_zpskqvcqxsm.jpg"/></a>
 
New kayak owner here! As you can see from the picture below, I am in need of a way to haul on the rack. (TE Rack w/ factory crossbars)
kayak.jpg~original


I have decided to run Yakima Mako Saddles, but I am unsure how to load this thing over the spoiler with damaging. The yak is a little too long and awkward for me to muscle up and over. I am looking for any suggestions. (Preferably cheap)

What does everyone else do? I will be loading alone 100% of the time.

My Options thus far:
1) Fabricate a hitch mount setup using hulley rollers
2) Yakima Showboat System

Great question. I have always used my customized kayak trailer to haul it but now I can't use a trailer.
So I have the same exact issue.
When I had my FJCruiser, the rear cross bar was so far back, you never needed to worry about this.
SO Ive been thinking about this and one of the best ideas I found from someone else is to use a boat fender, temporarily fastened to the spoiler area, or just forward of it. If it's high enough, the kayak should be able to rest touching only the fender and not the spoiler. Then you can lift the other end and move the kayak onto the rack/saddle/wheels.
It would require a pretty fat fender, so rather than spend a lot on a boat fender, I tied a bunch of short pool foam floats together.
Not sure this works either.
So I decided that maybe a foam boogie board would work. Either cut it in half
or use it sideways. Position it so that it hangs over the edge of the spoiler. And maybe tuck the front end under the crossbar, if it will fit, to provide a holding point. If it won't fit, I'll rig some sort of fastener like a strap.
This should take the weight of the kayak and spread it across to the roof hopefully.
But most importantly it will prevent a sandy kayak from scratching the roof or spoiler.
I'm sure it will be a work in progress. Most likely I will go back to a large diameter cylinder shaped piece of foam or boat fender type of thing.
 
I am another one in the camp of doing a clean and jerk with some 'j' style racks. It's really not bad once you have the movement down. Hullavator is the best option (although very pricey) if you don't want to go this route.
 
I am another one in the camp of doing a clean and jerk with some 'j' style racks. It's really not bad once you have the movement down. Hullavator is the best option (although very pricey) if you don't want to go this route.

The problem is that my kayak weighs over 65 pounds, and probably more when wet and has gear on it.
Its not the weight, but trying to balance that weight on a 13' kayak with 2 hands. Makes it a bit difficult to find the exact axis point.
Ive decided to make a contraption using a trailer roller fastened to a board.
The board would tuck under the rear crossbar, and it would extend the roller over the edge.
In theory this would allow you to lean the kayak on the roller, then lift the other end onto the rack.
We'll see when I actually try it.
 
The problem is that my kayak weighs over 65 pounds, and probably more when wet and has gear on it.
Its not the weight, but trying to balance that weight on a 13' kayak with 2 hands. Makes it a bit difficult to find the exact axis point.
Ive decided to make a contraption using a trailer roller fastened to a board.
The board would tuck under the rear crossbar, and it would extend the roller over the edge.
In theory this would allow you to lean the kayak on the roller, then lift the other end onto the rack.
We'll see when I actually try it.
My kayaks are 18' and 16', I just put one hand on each end of the cockpit, it's not a perfect balance but close enough that it's not terribly awkward.

Will be interested in seeing pics of your contraption once you complete it though.
 
i have a 16 and a half foot and just have it sit upright on two foam saddles and tie it down onto the cross bars, tow hooks, and the chain hooks on the hitch. It's not hard to load up and if your not tall enough to push it on from the back without scratching maybe just take along a small step ladder. A roller is a good idea i just think it's unnecessary.
 
i have a 16 and a half foot and just have it sit upright on two foam saddles and tie it down onto the cross bars, tow hooks, and the chain hooks on the hitch. It's not hard to load up and if your not tall enough to push it on from the back without scratching maybe just take along a small step ladder. A roller is a good idea i just think it's unnecessary.

Well, either you lift the kayak up over your head and place it on the saddles, or you have to rest it on some part of the vehicle and slide it up. Which will scratch unless you use some sort of roller, or a towel.
 
If you can swing it financially, I would recommend going the Hullavator or even trailer route. I can honestly say having to lift 2 70 plus pound kayaks onto the roof deters me from kayaking some days (bad shoulder and just lazy sometimes). If I was not 5'7 and/or had someone bigger than my 12 year old helping me load I might feel different.

Here are pics of my current setup (Yakima with custom Alabama loading extensions-otherwise known as PVC pipe slid over the ends of the Yakima rods). I lay a blanket over the vehicle to protect it (put something thicker than you see in the picture-I have two nice creases in my body from sliding the kayak against the Runner even with a blanket). Leave one end on the ground and slide the other onto the rear PVC pipe. Next, lift the end on the ground up onto the front pipe (Note: The kayak will slide easily on/and OFF of the PVC. Also, if you are short like me...note the step stool). Then, center up the kayak and slide it onto your yak mounts.
 

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I just finished installing the thule hullavator pro 898. Once the kayak is on the hullavator, its a piece of cake. Since the hobie outback is 80 lbs, lifting it up 3 feet was still a task!! I have to start working out or something, haha.

Overall, I can't imagine loading it up onto the roof the traditional way. I'm sure its doable. Good thing I didn't get the Pro Angler 12 which is 105 lbs yikes!!

Maybe I should have gone with a trailer right!! the crossbar plus hullavator is up there to almost the price of a trailer, haha.
 

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My kayaks are 18' and 16', I just put one hand on each end of the cockpit, it's not a perfect balance but close enough that it's not terribly awkward.

Will be interested in seeing pics of your contraption once you complete it though.

Well, after some experimenting and brainstorming, Ive come up with a solution.
I am doing the final build tomorrow and will post pictures and details.
 
cheap J cradles for now, until I can find some hullavators at a REI garage sale.
 

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I use an "extend a truck" in the hitch (just for loading my yak not carrying it) set in the vertical/tall position:

Extend-A-Truck 944 Truck Bed Extender : Amazon.com : Automotive

with one of these bolted to it:

Oak Orchard SUV Kayak Roller Loader - Load your kayak with Ease

On the factory racks I use Yakima "Railgrabs" & bars with "hulley rollers" & saddles. Takes me seconds to load my boat (16 footer) up & this setup clears the spoiler no problem. All added together it can get pricey though!

I was just trying to use the search function before posting something new, so I apologize if this comes out of the depths.

But does anyone know if the bed extenders etc rise up high enough to clear the spoiler on a 2014 SR5? I just bought a new kayak, and I don't want to towel and slide, and I think the best extender might be the best idea, but just not sure how high it raises up from the hitch?
 
Here is the device I built, photos and video.
Sorry for lousy quality.
I can reshoot if anyone is interested:
https://youtu.be/bLjWbXEejqk
 

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