How to make spare chipped keys

[cv4runner]

What year is your T4R?

2006 SR5. I bought it used with only one key. I've been paranoid about losing the one key I have so it brings a lot of peace of mind to have a spare just in case.

 

[Dkon82]

Today I realized my new key has one draw back; it doesn't lock my glove compartment. Has anyone else had this problem with their aftermarket key?

 

[ryanbt]

Dkon82, they may have sent you a sub/valet key. Is it gray instead of black? Is the tip of metal a slightly different shape than your other key?

 

[Dkon82]

It's definitely the same color as my original. After a close examination, I noticed the groove (just off center) that goes down the length of the key on both sides appears to be a bit wider on the new key opposed to a thinner groove on the oem key. Other than that everything else looks identical. I'll try to upload a picture from my phone so you all can see what I'm talking about.

 

[ryanbt]

Is that an OEM key? (Does it have a dot on it, like the original one does at the base of the metal like the one in the bottom of your picture?)

 

[cv4runner]

Today I realized my new key has one draw back; it doesn't lock my glove compartment. Has anyone else had this problem with their aftermarket key?

I checked the glovebox using my Amazon key and it worked fine.

 

[Dkon82]

Cvrunner: is the extra key you bought oem? The one I bought from amazon said nothing about being oem and looks much cheaper too. Did I miss something, are the keys from the amazon link supposed to be oem?

 

[cv4runner]

Cvrunner: is the extra key you bought oem? The one I bought from amazon said nothing about being oem and looks much cheaper too. Did I miss something, are the keys from the amazon link supposed to be oem?

The key I purchased is definitely not OEM. It doesn't have the tiny circle/dot on it like my original key has, and appears more cheaply made. Perhaps it was something in the way the locksmith cut it that won't allow it to lock the glovebox?

 

[nicolachel]

Unfortunately this process didn't work for my 4Runner. I purchased the key off of eBay from the links provided in this thread for $8, Had the local ACE cut it for .99cents. Tried the process listed above and thru the .pdf provided and had no joy.

I performed the process as described and never got the solid immobilizer light. As soon as I pulled out the Master Key, the immobilizer light blinked every time. Tried the process at least 6 or 7 times.

Any help would be great. I did look at my CarFax when I bought the truck and noted that there was a re-programmed key about a year after the initial purchase of the vehicle.

Sorry to hear that.
You might want to do an erase first.

 

[nicolachel]

It's definitely the same color as my original. After a close examination, I noticed the groove (just off center) that goes down the length of the key on both sides appears to be a bit wider on the new key opposed to a thinner groove on the oem key. Other than that everything else looks identical. I'll try to upload a picture from my phone so you all can see what I'm talking about.

That does not seem to be the problem, my keys bought off amazon also have wider grooves but they lock/unlock the glove box just fine.
I guess that the grooves are just used to mechanically strengthen the key itself(so it's not easily bent/twisted), but that's just a guess.

You want to talk to your locksmith about this.

 

[nicolachel]

Thanks for those who replied with their results!

 

[xlaxx]

What are the procedures for doing a full erase?

I want to avoid, NOT being able to start my truck with the Master Key if I do this.

 

[nicolachel]

What are the procedures for doing a full erase?

I want to avoid, NOT being able to start my truck with the Master Key if I do this.

It's almost the same, just one more remove and insertion of key and one more open/close door.

After that the light will come on for 1 second and you're done.

This process will not erase the master key you're using (to do the erase).

 

[xlaxx]

nicolachel-
I went back thru and re-read your original post,... JOY this time! :girl:

I found out what I did wrong, too. I inserted and removed the Master Key 5 times (5 complete cycles), meaning I REMOVED the Master Key on the 5th time, instead of leaving it in the ignition after the 5th insertion. Therefore, there was a 6th insertion of the Master Key.

Anyway, this process does work! I guess, I was just a bonehead :moping: because the Service Bulletin I downloaded wasn't clear to my readings of it.

Can't complian now at all. For under $10 dollars, this is a good deal. Now I need to find a place to hide the new key and blank one!

 

[nicolachel]

nicolachel-
I went back thru and re-read your original post,... JOY this time! :girl:

I found out what I did wrong, too. I inserted and removed the Master Key 5 times (5 complete cycles), meaning I REMOVED the Master Key on the 5th time, instead of leaving it in the ignition after the 5th insertion. Therefore, there was a 6th insertion of the Master Key.

Anyway, this process does work! I guess, I was just a bonehead :moping: because the Service Bulletin I downloaded wasn't clear to my readings of it.

Can't complian now at all. For under $10 dollars, this is a good deal. Now I need to find a place to hide the new key and blank one!

Congratulations!

I actually did the same thing (remove key on the 5th time since the pdf says "insert and remove") after reading the pdf, that's probably the reason for me to open this thread (to provide a clear description of the procedure for those in need).

 

[xlaxx]

Oh ya,... I went to 3 different places to get the eBay key cut.

First two establishments were both Lock and Safe-type businesses. Both wanted $15-$25 to cut a blank chipset-key like the Toyota Master Key. The third place (an Emergency Locksmith) wanted $10. My local ACE harware charged me only $1.

The wife lost her Honda Odyssey key two years ago,... $120 to replace that one!

 

[xlaxx]

Congratulations!

I actually did the same thing (remove key on the 5th time since the pdf says "insert and remove") after reading the pdf, that's probably the reason for me to open this thread (to provide a clear description of the procedure for those in need).

nicolachel-
Thank you bro!

I think your thread is STICKY - worthy!

xlaxx

 

[Dkon82]

Quick update!
The amazon key does open the glove compartment. Later that night when I went to lock my deck face in the GC with the oem key and it wouldn't lock. At that point I knew it was the lock and not the keys. The lock was a little jammed and just needed to be jiggled a bit. All is good!!

 

[Bedstraps]

That does not seem to be the problem, my keys bought off amazon also have wider grooves but they lock/unlock the glove box just fine.
I guess that the grooves are just used to mechanically strengthen the key itself(so it's not easily bent/twisted), but that's just a guess.

You want to talk to your locksmith about this.

I recently got my wife's highlander key cut at the dealer. I brought them my cheapo non OEM eBay key and my master key. They said "this master looks a little too bent to use for a guide. Just give me your VIN number instead." So I got my registration and he used only the VIN number to access a toyota database and cut the new master key. This was Lustine Toyota in Woodbridge, VA that did this at no cost.

 

[Bedstraps]

1. Take the new key and one master key that can start your 4runner(old key) into the 4runner with you and close the driver's door.(immobilizer light should be blinking)

2. Insert old key, remove old key, Insert old key, remove old key,
Insert old key, remove old key, Insert old key, remove old key,
Insert old key (immobilizer light should be off from the first insertion)

3. open and close driver's door six times (immobilizer light should be off)
Step 2 and 3 need to be done in less than 35 seconds(pdf says 35 seconds)

4.remove the old key. (immobilizer light should come on(steady on, not blinking))

5. insert the new key(immobilizer light should be blinking)

Then just sit there and wait, after about one minute the blinking immobilizer light should go off and you're done.

I finally got my switchblade key programmed using this method. thanks a bunch. I had given up on it until i saw this thread and decided to give it one more shot.