How to negotiate with dealership via email?

[dandelos]

So I know I want to get the '18 4Runner OR Premium, and I know the specific color and options I want too. Will be paying cash and not trading in anything. Knowing that October is a good month to buy prior-year models, I wanted to get some advice on how I should go about negotiating with the dealership.

I intend to basically play email 'roulette' with various Toyota dealerships within 75 miles or so of us, asking them if they have any '18 models with my desired color and options, and what their 'best price' is. Then basically using the "well the other dealership offered me this price, can you beat it" route until I get to a price I'm happy with, at which point I'll go to the dealership to close the deal.

Is this a viable strategy? Particularly for the 4Runner which is one of the easier trucks to sell out there. How much information should I offer at the beginning (e.g. the fact that I want to pay cash and not trade-in)?

The other wrinkle is that I am actually open to getting the '19 model, instead of the '18, if the price is right. Should I even mention that in my communications with the dealers early on?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Future4runner]

I wouldn't even mention paying with cash at this time and in most cases dealers don't really care as long as they get what they are asking for the 4Runner.

You can do a search on websites to see what vehicles they have on the lot. Surely they won't be getting new 2018 inventory at this time.

I am sure you'll get a better deal on a 2018 since it's end of the year push vs 2019

Good luck with your purchase.

 

[jimmynotjim]

If you want to save yourself the trouble of email roulette, I used TrueCar to get multiple quotes from local dealers, then proceeded to email them the best deals from the others and asking how they could beat it.

In the end I walked into a local dealer that wasn't on TrueCar and handed them the best quote and they matched it. Only reason I didn't go with a TrueCar dealer was they didn't have the color I wanted and would have to trade another dealer or I could settle for another color. The dealer not on TruCar just happened to have the exact color and package I was looking for.

 

[SCMountaineer]

You've already gotten some good advice, but I can tell you what worked for me when I bought our Mercedes.
After doing my research on various sites, came up with a price that I was willing to pay for the car I wanted. I emailed the three or four dealers that were driving distance and made them the offer and told them I'd buy it that week if they were able to do it, that I had very little time, and would need to do as much paperwork before I ever set foot in the dealership. (It was an aggressive offer, but not unreasonable.)
One dealer wanted me to come in and meet with them. I had no interest in spending half the day going back and forth, so told them that if they would meet my offer and email me whatever paperwork, I'd be happy to give them my business. They wouldn't give me any numbers over phone or email, so they didn't get my business.

Second dealer emailed and was very close to what I wanted, and I feel like I probably could have gotten them there, but the third one (who was a couple of hours from me) emailed back before I could counter and met my offer on an in stock car that actually had a few more things on it than I wanted. They sent all the paperwork by email, and actually flatbedded the car to my house because I told them I wouldnt be able to come pick it up until the weekend.

 

[jhguth]

i just emailed back and forth, forwarded offers to other dealers, etc... when i had the best offer i could get via email i went into the dealer for final negotiations (which i just played games on my phone through until they came down to what i wanted to spend) then when i had the offer in writing i took pics and sent it to the other dealers to see if they would beat it.

ultimately i ended up buying from a dealer a couple hours away and had them deliver the vehicle to me

have no shame, play them against each other, none of them are doing you any favors or looking out for your interests so why should you?

 

[VT4RunnerSR5]

Depending on where you are located, the 19s are starting to show up on lots and the number of 18s are starting to dwindle; especially here in the Northeast.

 

[Muzzle of Bees]

I have seen some real aggressive pricing on 2018's here in Austin.

 

[Wild_Bill_Kelso]

I haven't negotiated in a dealership in over 25 years (dating myself). That includes trade-ins as well. Everything was negotiated before I walked in the door. I just walk in and sign.

Cash - easy peasy; find the truck you want with the options you want. Manufacturer websites will allow you to drill down much deeper in the options than a regular auto site and give you a list of dealers with the vehicle you want or one close to it.

I typically email multiple dealers with the specific vehicle including the V.I.N. and start out with asking what their best out the door price is. I can then use the best offer to negotiate with other responsive dealers if I'm so inclined.


I then bring in the trade if I have one after the out the door price is hammered out. Regarding your trade, full description with multiple HD photos and no surprises on your end and a realistic expectation on what your vehicle is worth. Obviously, you'll always get more if you sell it yourself, but it's such a hassle at least for me. Once the trade is negotiated, I ask for a completed contract I can review prior to me showing up at the dealer so I can review any "last minute" fees, etc. I've yet to have a deal die when I showed up. Later in the month is always better as they're trying to achieve their sales quota.

Keep in mind, you'll probably only get a 30% response rate, but patience is key. Typically takes me 3 - 5 days to hammer out a deal. I bought my current 18' TRD Off Road and my 11' Corvette GS new this way. More and more dealers are embracing this concept. I refuse to play the 1950's four square negotiation crap.....

 

[90Duck]

Our recent buying experiences have all been via email, using multiple third-party websites to help measures a fair price. With both of our latest purchases, I ended up just using the dealer's website to get their "internet price", and was frankly very pleasantly surprised by what was offered. Although I had requested the internet pricing on an SR5, the local dealer would drop to $3,000 under MSRP on any of their in stock 4Runners without any haggling (they didn't have any TRD Pros). I ended up upgrading to a TRD ORP (no sunroof or KDSS) for right at $37k all-in out the door, and this was in June. You should be able to do better this time of year.

 

[brtnstrns]

I then bring in the trade if I have one after the out the door price is hammered out. Regarding your trade, full description with multiple HD photos and no surprises on your end and a realistic expectation on what your vehicle is worth. Obviously, you'll always get more if you sell it yourself, but it's such a hassle at least for me. Once the trade is negotiated, I ask for a completed contract I can review prior to me showing up at the dealer so I can review any "last minute" fees, etc. I've yet to have a deal die when I showed up. Later in the month is always better as they're trying to achieve their sales quota.

Another thing to keep in mind with trade-in, especially with a high resale value vehicle like the 4Runner, is the tax credit advantage.

Dealing with this now in Seattle (but it works across most state lines excluding California and like three/four other states) - looking at trading in the 4Runner because my local tax rate is 10.4% and I can save something like $3000-4000 in taxes by trading in the 4Runner. The only way I could come up with a wash with selling outright would be if I got like $36,000 private party sale on the 4Runner, which 99% of buyers would pass up for a brand new vehicle.

 

[ZiaMan]

When asking for price, make sure it is out the door pricing. You don’t want to negotiate then have it come up that fees, tax, whatever we’re not included. This is the only price that matters

 

[kingofthehill]

When asking for price, make sure it is out the door pricing. You don’t want to negotiate then have it come up that fees, tax, whatever we’re not included. This is the only price that matters

In the past I have had issues with this. Everytime I was assured it was out the door pricing only to get in and they claimed out the door pricing is the cost of the vehicle and does not include taxes. Maybe get them to quote for the fees and taxes to be listed desperately, that way they will not be able to bait and switch as easily.

 

[Muzzle of Bees]

It is not that difficult to do basic math. If they say that taxes are not included in the price, then find the rate in your area and do the calculation yourself. When you review their paperwork check the math and if it seems to far in the wrong direction question them on it.

 

[thennen]

When asking for price, make sure it is out the door pricing. You don’t want to negotiate then have it come up that fees, tax, whatever we’re not included. This is the only price that matters

Amen.

 

[ZiaMan]

In the past I have had issues with this. Everytime I was assured it was out the door pricing only to get in and they claimed out the door pricing is the cost of the vehicle and does not include taxes. Maybe get them to quote for the fees and taxes to be listed desperately, that way they will not be able to bait and switch as easily.

I get that but that's a sign to walk from that dealership. Just another way for them to obscure the true price of the vehicle.

Not directed at you - Either they are idiots or are hiding something. There is no reason they can't tell you what sales tax would be.

Also since the OP doesn't have a trade in, this is really straight forward (no trade in).

When I was shopping for my GX, one dealer tried putting their $500 doc fee in the tax. So the Vehicle + Fees is $500 less than what it really is. Hence why out the door is all that matters.

All this being said you have to be ready to walk. If you are going to buy the unicorn you want and they know it, you've lost.

 

[kingofthehill]

I get that but that's a sign to walk from that dealership. Just another way for them to obscure the true price of the vehicle.

Not directed at you - Either they are idiots or are hiding something. There is no reason they can't tell you what sales tax would be.

Also since the OP doesn't have a trade in, this is really straight forward (no trade in).

When I was shopping for my GX, one dealer tried putting their $500 doc fee in the tax. So the Vehicle + Fees is $500 less than what it really is. Hence why out the door is all that matters.

All this being said you have to be ready to walk. If you are going to buy the unicorn you want and they know it, you've lost.

No I didn't have a trade in and it was a new vehicle I was purchasing at the time. They were very vague with how they would word the pricing. It was several different dealers and they used the same tactic. I double and triple checked with them before going to the dealer. Basically they gave us the run around. Finally walking out caused one of them to stick by their original quote. I would recommend having them quote everything (price of vehicle, tax, title, license, and any other fees) instead of giving you an out the door price because it may confuse them or they may define it differently.

 

[Wild_Bill_Kelso]

No I didn't have a trade in and it was a new vehicle I was purchasing at the time. They were very vague with how they would word the pricing. It was several different dealers and they used the same tactic. I double and triple checked with them before going to the dealer. Basically they gave us the run around. Finally walking out caused one of them to stick by their original quote. I would recommend having them quote everything (price of vehicle, tax, title, license, and any other fees) instead of giving you an out the door price because it may confuse them or they may define it differently.

Again, I either have them email the full contract prior to going in or a firm, signed, quote detailing all costs prior to going in including my trade in. That's why it typically takes me 3 - 5 days to complete a transaction.

 

[kingofthehill]

Again, I either have them email the full contract prior to going in or a firm, signed, quote detailing all costs prior to going in including my trade in. That's why it typically takes me 3 - 5 days to complete a transaction.

Exactly! you need to make them clarify everything and not be vague about how they come up with the price.

My mistake in the past was not having them give a full quote detailing everything. Once they do that they have to stick to the price they quoted on the vehicle.

 

[Coal-Cracker]

In the past I have had issues with this. Everytime I was assured it was out the door pricing only to get in and they claimed out the door pricing is the cost of the vehicle and does not include taxes. Maybe get them to quote for the fees and taxes to be listed desperately, that way they will not be able to bait and switch as easily.

Definitely the dealer pulling something...

Item cost + taxes + any additional fees = the very definition of what "out the door" means.
Pretty shady.

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[jhguth]

Just be ready to walk anytime if they pull something like that, even if you have hours invested



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