How to remove knockout plugs for dash lights

[cheeser]

I'm likely just going to use a direct relay harness from the light...like this one. Power will come from the relay switch (connected to the battery).

Amazon.com: OPT7 Offroad Light Bar wiring Harness Kit (4 Items), 380W - Single Connector: Automotive

And then follow this... [MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION] gives a great explanation.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/178040-opt7-leds.html

And this
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/211802-wiring-lightbar-independent-harness-aob-switch.html

I have the opt7 harness and AOB switch and was originally going to use the hot wire that's powered and runs inside the cab.

I would prefer to use a switched power source instead of an always on source though. I doubt that I would inadvertently switch the light bar on and drain the battery, but would like to eliminate that possibility

 

[Cymon]

I have the opt7 harness and AOB switch and was originally going to use the hot wire that's powered and runs inside the cab.

I would prefer to use a switched power source instead of an always on source though. I doubt that I would inadvertently switch the light bar on and drain the battery, but would like to eliminate that possibility

You have reached the end of my knowledge base and I will not even pretend that I have a quality answer for you.
That would be a question better suited for [MENTION=103267]Saker[/MENTION] , [MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION] , [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] , [MENTION=91899]Jhalko[/MENTION] or [MENTION=81322]barryhiram[/MENTION] , some of our resident electricians that I can think of off of the top of my head.

 

[Saker]

I have the opt7 harness and AOB switch and was originally going to use the hot wire that's powered and runs inside the cab.

I would prefer to use a switched power source instead of an always on source though. I doubt that I would inadvertently switch the light bar on and drain the battery, but would like to eliminate that possibility

You can look at my link.
Switched and triggered so I can control if I want my LED Light Bar to come on when the High Beams come on. If you want it just on the switch, just send the trigger wire to 12V when the key is on....

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/164966-led-light-bar-install-2014-toyota-4runner.html

Hope this helps!

 

[cheeser]

You can look at my link.
Switched and triggered so I can control if I want my LED Light Bar to come on when the High Beams come on. If you want it just on the switch, just send the trigger wire to 12V when the key is on....

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/164966-led-light-bar-install-2014-toyota-4runner.html

Hope this helps!

[MENTION=103267]Saker[/MENTION]....I have looked at your post a number of times....think I have it bookmarked Maybe I overlooked it, but didn't see the switched source that you were actually using. I thought I saw [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] using a "tap a circuit" to switched source on the fuse block.

Thanks for the assist.

 

[Saker]

[MENTION=103267]Saker[/MENTION]....I have looked at your post a number of times....think I have it bookmarked Maybe I overlooked it, but didn't see the switched source that you were actually using. I thought I saw [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] using a "tap a circuit" to switched source on the fuse block.

Thanks for the assist.

Here is the photo.....
High beam wire

 

[cheeser]

Here is the photo.....
High beam wire

Sorry [MENTION=103267]Saker[/MENTION], looks like I wasn't clear. I don't want to connect the trigger wire to my high beams at this time....I am going to order a 9006 adapter cable just in case though as they are cheap.

I am just looking for good switched power source under the dash though via "tap a circuit" to the fuse box. Just looking to see which fuse is switched so I don't have to test them all.

 

[Saker]

Sorry [MENTION=103267]Saker[/MENTION], looks like I wasn't clear. I don't want to connect the trigger wire to my high beams at this time....I am going to order a 9006 adapter cable just in case though as they are cheap.

I am just looking for good switched power source under the dash though via "tap a circuit" to the fuse box. Just looking to see which fuse is switched so I don't have to test them all.

Sorry, misunderstood.....

Can't help on that one.

 

[Jhalko]

You have reached the end of my knowledge base and I will not even pretend that I have a quality answer for you.
That would be a question better suited for [MENTION=103267]Saker[/MENTION] , [MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION] , [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] , [MENTION=91899]Jhalko[/MENTION] or [MENTION=81322]barryhiram[/MENTION] , some of our resident electricians that I can think of off of the top of my head.

My setup has zero connections to any factory wiring/fuse box/ or other. Originally I was straight off the battery for the Rigid lightbar and driving lights, so there was danger of running down the battery if left on. I've since switched to using an Spod, which has a low voltage cutoff, so that I could safely add more accessories. All my switches go to the Spod only as well, so I've given up dimming and backlighting (when off) for a completely independant setup for the crap I've added. My personal preference... I'm honored to be included with the names above but no where close to their skill! Haha

Sorry [MENTION=103267]Saker[/MENTION], looks like I wasn't clear. I don't want to connect the trigger wire to my high beams at this time....I am going to order a 9006 adapter cable just in case though as they are cheap.

I am just looking for good switched power source under the dash though via "tap a circuit" to the fuse box. Just looking to see which fuse is switched so I don't have to test them all.

Do you want that circuit to power the lights or just activate them based on ignition? With my previous CB setup there was a an empty fuse slot in the drivers fuse box that I plugged into for power and it was based on ignition, not sure if that is what you are looking for, it was only rated for like 5amps at most.

Maybe this helps?

Edit:http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/173366-fuse-switch-question.html

 

[cheeser]

Do you want that circuit to power the lights or just activate them based on ignition? With my previous CB setup there was a an empty fuse slot in the drivers fuse box that I plugged into for power and it was based on ignition, not sure if that is what you are looking for, it was only rated for like 5amps at most.

Maybe this helps?

Edit:http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/173366-fuse-switch-question.html

[MENTION=91899]Jhalko[/MENTION]. At this time, I simply want to tap into a switched circuit at the fuse box or unused under dash connector. This will allow me to turn my LEDs on any time I want.

Weather looks like crap today in the Denver metro area, so I believe I will see about installing my light bar today and take a look at the underdash fuse box for any unused switched circuits or connectors.

For the future, I am purchasing a 9005 extension harness (I believe this is the correct one) to connect the 12v trigger to the switch just in case I become tired of manually turning them on/off.

 

[cheeser]

In looking at the underdash fuse box, there appears to be an unused switched circuit (tested via meter) just under the 10 amp "towing bkup" fuse (far right).

If so, I should be able to use that for my 12v input into the switch.

 

[MrBruns]

You guys are silly.

Put your hand in the hole surrounding the steering column (left side) and behind the top of that lower panel. Pull. Panel pops out far enough to get to everything. The panel above that literally pulls right off... No cut hands. Easy.:wow:




View attachment 201955

I will be removing the top panel to mount an sPod. Did you have to remove one before the other or did you see or notice if you could just remove the top without removing the bottom first? Thank you