How to remove the gas door?
- Thread starter Net4n6
- Start date
Leave door off entirely?
Thinking about fixing my fuel door issue as well because the body is starting to oxidate where the door runs on it. Instead of buying a new door assy or replacing the bent pin, what would the downsides of leaving the door off entirely? (After repainting of course)
Thinking about fixing my fuel door issue as well because the body is starting to oxidate where the door runs on it. Instead of buying a new door assy or replacing the bent pin, what would the downsides of leaving the door off entirely? (After repainting of course)
TechWrench
Senior Member
Downsides, well lets see. It will look Fugly, IMHO. It will make it easy for someone to mess with/steal your gas cap. Uv deterioration of rubber seal behind fill tube. Loss of aero streamlining. If you have to deal with winter in your area, a build up of snow/ice in the exposed cavity. And did I mention, it will look Fugly. :nono:
Hahaha I was thinking it might give it that jeep/hummer look albeit pretty ghetto looking. I was worried about that rubber seal tho especially the edges. What's underneath it? Was thinking if I left the door off I'd hit the edges with black silicon to seal it up. I'm just so damned fed up with the door as is lol
TechWrench
Senior Member
I'm just not seeing it. Why would anyone want to make their awesome 4Runner look like a Heep or a Bummer.............:barf:
TechWrench
Senior Member
According to the Partznet.com site;
Fuel Door, 77350-35050, $38.78.
Just remember it will come in black prime and need to be painted to match your vehicle. It shouldn't be too hard to find a body shop to match the paint and shoot it for you. Just be sure to have them do the inside also.
TechWrench
Senior Member
It's OK, glad to help.
An additional thought on re-attaching the new/repaired door assy. to the vehicle. While I agree that the method of using bolts/nuts to re-attach the door is a workable idea, I preferred using pop-rivets, like the original install, I know (anal).
If you would prefer going the rivet method, a few words of advice. The standard, right angle pop-rivet tool/kit usually does not have the large size rivets or head to install the size needed, and even if it does, I found the right angle design doesn't allow you to get in close enough to seat the head of the rivet properly. I found a straight-in HD rivet tool at HF which will work with the larger rivets, and has the right size rivets included with the kit. It is only $20.00 from HF, and I couldn't help buying a new tool for my inventory.
Here is a link to it on the HF site;
Heavy Duty 17-1/2" Hand Riveter With Collection Bottle
Good luck with which ever way you go.
L8Shift
Member
I replaced the rivets with the following stainless hardware; internal hex buttons (6mm), washers (fender) as spacers to bring the fuel door further away from the body, and nylok nuts.
The back of the hinge/area is accessible from where the jack is located.
Stick a couple pieces of duct tape on the back of the rivets, to keep the pieces from falling into the deep.
After drilling through, I grabbed the heads of the rivets with my needle nose vice grips and twisted them off.
The area underneath the hinge is only primed (not painted).
My local Ace Hardware had all the hardware in stock.
Thanks for the guidance! :thumb:
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mightyduck
New member
Hey man, just wanted to confirm something here. By pulling the rubber seal away, you can basically access the inside/back of the side-pannel of the truck? ie this how you were able to bolt the bracket back on? is it hard to remove the metal ring that holds the rubber liner in?
Also, where do the metal filings go when you drill out the rivets? is there any concern about blowing myself up from a spark (being close to the gas tank and all)?
mightyduck
New member
agreed. strong work on this thread lads.
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