I found 2 switches in my car, don't know what they do...

[idobref]

So I was trying to program my remote and i was kinda looking under the steering wheel and i found there two switches..

under steering wheel

and one under glove box on passenger side

i traced the one under the steering wheel and it looks like its going in the fuse box under the hood..

any ideas what are they for ?!?

Thanks!
Ivan.

 

[johnny c]

I found a switch under my dash shortly after I purchased my runner. I was routing wires for rear lights and noticed a little switch, traced it to a black box which turned out to be a remote starter! I called the manufacturer and had a remote sent to me! Great surprise! Maybe that will send you on the right track, ( remote starter, some other remote system?) Try turning them on and off to see what happens! They do not look like original equipment.

 

[idobref]

oh wow good for you.. but mine leads to the fuse box in the engine bay area..
could it be a switch to reset something ?!?!
and why do i have a second one under the glove box (passenger side) ?!?

btw I was trying to program a key remote and i'm doing all the step (lock, unlock, lock unlock etc... close door open door and all that jazz...)
but I never hear that lock unlock noise which the car should make to let me know its in programming mode...

any ideas ?!?

Thanks!

 

[johnny c]

Can you trace the wires any further? Can you see exactly where the wire goes inside the fuse box? Maybe try to trace the other wire and see where it goes. Maybe its some kind of driving light override/ dif lock override?

 

[TheDurk]

JC above is on the right track. The wire from the fuse box presumably provides 12V TO the switch, and provides no clue as to its actual function. If there is another wire, it should lead to whatever load the switch controls. If there is only one wire, you can assume whatever accessory it controlled was removed and you have a free switch. I'd use a test lamp to see if the wire from the fuse box is actually hot at the switch, both with key on and with key off.

 

[spongerx]

You might try turning the ignition on, then flipping the switch, then turning the ignition off, and then try your remote lock/unlock. You may find that the switch is a kill switch for the lock/unlock chirp sound. That's what I have in mine. Comes in handy when I don't want to wake the whole neighborhood if I come home late or leave early. :cowboy:

 

[jacob7071]

btw I was trying to program a key remote and i'm doing all the step (lock, unlock, lock unlock etc... close door open door and all that jazz...)
but I never hear that lock unlock noise which the car should make to let me know its in programming mode...

any ideas ?!?

I have some instructions on how to program an OEM remote, but you need to have a functioning remote to make it work.

 

[idobref]

Ok so check this out..
This morning I woke up and decided to turn the switch and start the car and see what will happen..
And so I did, turned the switch (under the steering wheel) and try to start the car.. But the car wouldn't start.. The starter is working but it seems like the switch is cutting the fuel...
Then I switched it back to it's original position and started the car! Everything was ok! I started the car and then turned the switch again, and the engine stalled right away!!

So I'm assuming this is a fuel cut switch?!? Is that thing like that from the factory ?!?!

 

[Pikeman]

No it is not factory. When I saw your post I was initially thinking it was some kind of Starter interrupt or some other Kill switch. In the early 90's we used to add small switches hidden to do what yours is doing. However with all the aftermarket alarms having really good Starter Interrupts and other safety features built in you really dont see the secondary switch anymore. Did you figure out what the one on the Passenger side was for?

 

[SkidPalace]

Did you figure out what the one on the Passenger side was for?

Clearly the other one is for either the rear mounted cannons, the oil slick or the smoke screen. What else could it be? Auto rotating license plate?

 

[LINY4Runner]

Ok so check this out..
This morning I woke up and decided to turn the switch and start the car and see what will happen..
And so I did, turned the switch (under the steering wheel) and try to start the car.. But the car wouldn't start.. The starter is working but it seems like the switch is cutting the fuel...
Then I switched it back to it's original position and started the car! Everything was ok! I started the car and then turned the switch again, and the engine stalled right away!!

So I'm assuming this is a fuel cut switch?!? Is that thing like that from the factory ?!?!

cool! good luck to the poor idiots who try to steal your truck haha

 

[idobref]

No it is not factory. When I saw your post I was initially thinking it was some kind of Starter interrupt or some other Kill switch. In the early 90's we used to add small switches hidden to do what yours is doing. However with all the aftermarket alarms having really good Starter Interrupts and other safety features built in you really dont see the secondary switch anymore. Did you figure out what the one on the Passenger side was for?

believe it or not, i think it does the same thing!
so i have two kill switches... damn whoever had the car before me was a freak!


btw I also tried that instructions, but my car does not click like it is suppose to..

Is it possible that I don't have an alarm system ?
(I have the little "Toyota security" blinking light next to the steering wheel)

 

[techno]

What else could it be? Auto rotating license plate?

Man, I've always wanted one of those. James Bond had one once and it seemed to come in handy for him!

 

[Qyota]

Is it possible that I don't have an alarm system ?
(I have the little "Toyota security" blinking light next to the steering wheel)

It's possible that it was disabled during the installation of an aftermarket system. If you have a factory-installed system (there were 2 options), you'll know based on one of these two things:

1. Black box under the driver seat. Is it there? If so, you have the RS3000 or RS3200 dealer-installed alarm, and your remote will NOT have a rear-window roll-down button.

2. No box under the seat, but red light in dash above the HVAC controls. This would be the factory-installed alarm, which has a 3-button remote (lock, unlock, and rear window). If you have this one, here's how to test if it's working:
- Roll down driver window
- Lock all doors using the driver door switch
- Close driver door and wait for a minute or two (system arming)
- Then reach in the open window and pull up on the door lock itself.
- If the alarm goes off, it's working (duh). If not, it's probably been disabled in place of an aftermarket system. Check behind the driver side kick panel to see if any of the wires in there have been molested. Mine were.

Really, your remote should tell you which system you have. Also, does your ignition key have a big black "handle" on it? If so, you have a transponder key that works with the factory-installed engine immobilizer. If it's just a plain metal key, no immobilizer.

The instructions for programming will vary depending on what system you have...so let's get that straight first.

 

[idobref]

wow qyota ! thanks for the help!

so i checked and my car DOES have an alarm system, which i set of once i waited 1 min and pulled the little door dock lock/unlock on drivers door.

however since i bought the car from Copart (wrecked car yard) it did came with big black plastic key, but no remote.
so i bought a remote from ebay FCC ID HYQ1512Y, and i went to the toyota dealership and they verified that this is the right remote.


however when try to put the car in programming mode, you know..
lock, unlock 5 times, close the door and then again .. and all that jazz (by the way the dealer gave me a print out of the instructions)
I dont hear that lock unlock click that the car is suppose to make to inform me that i'm in programming mode...

but there is one more thing, because my battery is a bit weak when i start locking unlocking the car with the button on drivers door .. in the end of the process the battery is so weak it cant really lift the little lock/unlock pull on drivers door..

maybe thats the reason why i cant put it in programming mode???