I have a valve tick/tap - How to fix?

Good you found the cause. If what your thinking is true you'll find out soon enough. Have you started looking for Hi-lift Hi-perf springs yet, have a feeling tap is coming back.

I looked at them originally but I couldn't drop $1k on springs and valves. Hoping this will do the trick. I'm noticing all the ones I have to replace are old, original shims, all the ones I didn't think I had to replace from when I put cams in. Oh well.
 
I looked at them originally but I couldn't drop $1k on springs and valves. Hoping this will do the trick. I'm noticing all the ones I have to replace are old, original shims, all the ones I didn't think I had to replace from when I put cams in. Oh well.

i understand about the cost sometimes you don't have a choice.
Haven't built a 5vz, have run into this on other engines and stock springs hi lift cams. Stocks have there limitations.
 
so if left unchecked what will this valve tick result in? my junkyard motor has a pretty loud tick, 10K miles and noise seems the same, runs great though.
 
so if left unchecked what will this valve tick result in? my junkyard motor has a pretty loud tick, 10K miles and noise seems the same, runs great though.

Loss of power and gas mileage as the valves become more and more out of specification.
 
Blah, the miss is still there. I think the valves are damaged, since the clearances are good again or I've lost compression in the cylinders.
 
If you have the Equipement. If not pull all the plugs and wedge the throttle body open and put a 20a battery charger on it and see what you blow. And go from there.

Exhaust leaks sound like a valve tick at times. Especially with headers.


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First, were you able to actually get a torque wrench on your headers? I was not..only some and had to guess. I did notice after my rebuild, I had to crank down the cross pipe a few turns. They told me like 25 ft/lbs when installed it (Doug Thorley).

Second, I guess I need to figure out how you check valve clearance on these. My machinist said he did it but who knows how long that will last.

As for leakdown test...I did find this:

Intake valve : Air whistling out of the intake, carburetor or throttle body indicates a leak at the intake valve.
Exhaust valve : Air heard hissing out of the tailpipe, turbocharger or exhaust manifold means an exhaust valve leak.
Piston rings : Whistling or hissing out of the PCV valve, oil filler cap hole or dipstick tube means the air is pushing past the rings. Suspect ring or cylinder wall wear.
Head gasket : Air bubbles in engine coolant seen at the radiator filler cap could mean air escaping into the coolant past the head gasket.
Cracked cylinder head : Bubbles in coolant or coolant being pushed up out of the radiator neck can also indicate cracks in the cylinder head or cylinder walls.
 
Some of you know that I am a bit of a guinea pig when it comes to performance parts, since there isn't a whole lot for 5VZ-FE's except for the supercharger. Well, after a recent camshaft install and valve adjustment I have a valve tick. It's pretty loud but very inconsistent. Here's the facts:

  • It ticks erratically at cold startups
  • Until the engine is completely warmed up (5-10 minutes) it will tick around 2,000 RPM or at idle
  • Confirmed that the noise is coming from the top end, under the valve covers
  • Have not re-checked valve clearances since camshaft install 2 months ago
  • Sound changes with RPM
  • Sound goes away under moderate to heavy load

Sometimes it's very subtle ticking, and other times it's a very loud tapping. There's absolutely no change in how the engine drives, so that effectively rules out bad timing in my mind. I did a compression test last week but they were all good except for cylinder 6, but I already knew I had a loss of compression in that cylinder since I bought it that way. The other 5 were perfect.

Should I try an oil additive? I already run a high quality synthetic oil, 5W-30. Is checking the valve clearances the next step? Looking for advice on those who have tackled something like this before.

EDIT: Video here on the noise. Sounds like it's coming from the passenger's side head to my ear, as well as in this video.
https://youtu.be/SEqAbLjrETQ

<iframe width="465" height="700" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/SEqAbLjrETQ" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>


dude I just noticed this on mine today :crutch:
 
Ever get to that leak down test?

No, I've had to take a break to do other things before poor weather sets in. I will do it in time though.

The valve adjustment took away the tick but it idles terribly. I think I either have bent valves or the springs are worn out. Once I get on it though, it still has decent power so I think it's all still in the valve train, not the pistons.
 
No, I've had to take a break to do other things before poor weather sets in. I will do it in time though.

The valve adjustment took away the tick but it idles terribly. I think I either have bent valves or the springs are worn out. Once I get on it though, it still has decent power so I think it's all still in the valve train, not the pistons.

Money light on now? I can’t believe you would have a bent valve but anything is possible. I overtorqued a valve once on a Briggs and Stratton engine and cracked its stem. Ran terrible until I put in a new valve.
 
It's a no interference engine. I don't see how valves got bent in a stock engine with stock lift and duration and OEM pistons.


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No, I've had to take a break to do other things before poor weather sets in. I will do it in time though.

The valve adjustment took away the tick but it idles terribly. I think I either have bent valves or the springs are worn out. Once I get on it though, it still has decent power so I think it's all still in the valve train, not the pistons.

What are you idling at? Specifically...

Is it ROUGH?
 

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