Don't need any condescending comments here, just looking to learn.
Okay, so I'm going to restate some of what has been said here already but try to give you some more details based on what I have learned in the past three years. I'm definitely not as knowledgeable as some of the people here so correct me if I'm wrong anywhere please.
- Lift is most appropriately gained by the use of taller springs, but lifting does require the use of longer aftermarket shocks so that you can appropriately lift without losing that corresponding length of travel of the wheel.
- There are "lift / leveling shocks" out there (Bilstein 5100, Eibach Pro-Truck) that have an spring seat that is adjustable to one of 4-6 pre-set levels so that you can use the OEM spring. Using the OEM spring would require you to either have or rent a spring compressor, or pay a shop to do it for you. Incidentally, adjustable spring seat shocks are not adjustable on the truck, they have to be removed, disassembled, adjusted, and reinstalled. Spring seat adjustable "lift /leveling shocks" are not rebuild-able. The 5100 and Pro-Truck shocks are 2" diameter shock bodies, the Bilstein 6112s are 2.5" (A spring that fits on a 2" shock will not fit on a 2.5" and vice versa).
- You can also obviously use adjustable spring seat shocks set at "0" (i.e., no lift from the spring seat) with a longer aftermarket spring to achieve your lift. Dobinsons, OME, and Eibach all make different length / spring rate springs for the 4R to suit the lift height you're after. Eibach makes the previously mentioned T1, T12, and T13 springs for Wheeler's Off-Road.
- There also are higher-end shocks (Toytec, King, Fox, Icon, Radflo) that use a threaded shock body to make the shocks fully adjustable, meaning that you turn the shock collar with a spanner wrench to lift the coil as much or as little as you want (no presets like the adjustable spring seat shocks). A few of these are adjustable on the truck but most aren't. You would still need a spring compressor to accomplish this on most of them. All these higher-end shocks are 2.5" shock bodies and are rebuild-able.
- You should look into the differences between monotube shocks (Bilstein 5100s, Eibach Pro-Truck) and twin-tube shocks (OME, Dobinsons) before you buy. There are pros and cons to each.
- If you go with new aftermarket springs, be aware of spring rate differences. Increasing the spring rate drastically without adding weight will make the ride much stiffer.
- It is generally accepted as gospel around here that around 2.5" or more of front lift, the suspension geometry has changed enough that you should consider aftermarket Upper Control Arms to restore decent drivability. The change in geometry has to do with the fact that lifting an Independent Front Suspension up higher will bring the wheel slightly closer to the body as well as raising the center of gravity. Aftermarket UCAs come either with adjustable or built-in increased amounts of caster, which is the wheel alignment terminology for how far forward the wheel sits. Increasing caster on a lifted IFS truck will make the driving experience more stable. Having said all of that, there are plenty of examples of guys here that have 3" or more of front lift and are running the OEM UCAs.
- You should budget to have an alignment done (usually $75-$125 a pop) after any adjustment to your suspension. Having a good alignment tech, meaning one that is familiar with lifted IFS trucks, can make all the difference in the ride.
As stated earlier, buying the Bilstein 5100 or Eibach Pro-Truck shocks and using the OEM springs is likely your most cost-effective option. If you're into the idea of lifting with new springs, then there is also the Dobinsons and OME twin-tube kits. The cost goes up from there.
I would definitely read up as much as you can for the next few months before purchasing anything. Every single kit and setup has up and down sides. Good luck man.
