I need some help!

Dkj

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I just picked up this 88 4Runner with a 22RE and when I test drove it sounded great.... after I got it home and drove it a few times I started to hear this really strange noise. I had an 87 4Runner about 5 years ago that also had the 22RE and it developed death rattle and I ended up replacing the timing chain and guides myself, so I thought that it was possibly the timing chain guides on this one also. However after pulling all drive belts and running it and still hearing the same noise and pulling the valve cover the guides are in tact. Is it possible the timing chain tentioner could be wore out and causing a timing noise? The noise is a rhythmic whining/rattling/slight grinding noise. I can take a video and post it to YouTube if that will help. To me it doesn't sound like a knock and I can hear it from all points of the engine and I'm having trouble pin pointing the source. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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The odometer says 222,000
I just took a video and you can hear the sound pretty good I'm going to upload it to youtube now.
 
Hard to tell over video like that, but there's a rattling noise in there that could easily be a chain with no tension zinging on the guides. Does it chuckle like an old Mercedes diesel when you first start it?
 
I guess I've never heard a Mercedes diesel chuckle... what do you mean? The engine runs great it will do 75 with 35" tires. Just sounds like crap. I may let it fully warm up and take another video. I just don't want to replace the chain if the noise is coming from the head ya know?
 
I cant get a video that sounds any better than the first one. I guess I'll throw a new chain in it this weekend if I can get some good weather. It's been snowing for 2 weeks here. I appreciate you guys taking a look at the video and trying to help. If I get it sorted out I will post an update.
 
that sounds like a good idea, just throw some parts at it, and i'm sure the problem will magically go away. good luck with that!
 
Well I tried to run the engine with the valve cover off to try to look at the chain but it wont run without some vacuum. Do you have any ideas?
Troll much?
 
and obviously if I pulled it apart and the chain showed no damage and the timing cover isnt being eaten alive then I probably wouldnt "Throw parts at it"
Idiot
 
nope , no sir , no trolling here. But did you try to carve a clear valve cover from the frozen tundra lake ice out back so you could see the chain operate thru it ? That would better than a stethoscope, and not unlike that glass window some body put on a cow to watch it gack up cuddies.

I strain my oil thru one of those gold mesh reusable coffee filters when looking for fine bits of debris .
Makes a mean mocha too.

Why do you think you need crankcase vacuum to run it ?
 
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Well i dont know I hooked up the sensors and the air box tube but it would only start for a few seconds and then die before I could run around and try to look at the chain lol. I will check for metal in the oil this weekend too. You're cracking me up with your posts on other threads.
 
and obviously if I pulled it apart and the chain showed no damage and the timing cover isnt being eaten alive then I probably wouldnt "Throw parts at it"
Idiot

GFY.

first, it isn't obvious that you'd do any such thing, nor is it obvious that you have any clue how to determine whether the timing chain is ok or not. you claim in the first post that you took off the valve cover to check the guides, but that they are intact. you didn't bother to inspect the chain at that time? what makes you think slapping a new timing chain is going to take care of it, especially when you couldn't tell from looking at the chain whether anything was wrong with it? that's an expensive part (and time consuming to boot) to just slap in there to find out whether it fixes it or not - a fool's errand. but, hey, knock yourself out and spend your money on a new timing chain. maybe you'll get lucky.

me, i'd do a little more diagnostic work (and research) on it before i replaced the timing chain.
 
I know some 22RE's are quieter than others, and I've had 3 of them. Are you sure this engine isn't just a bit louder than your last 4R? I had 2 people tell me mine sounds like a diesel, but after checking everything (valves, timing chain, tensioner, timing) and driving it for about 8,000 miles, I finally decided it's just a loud engine. It doesn't have metal in the oil or filter, it gets 15-19 mpg (city/highway), and otherwise runs great. You might take it into a auto shop you know/trust and see if those guys can give you an indication if it needs attention or if it's just the way this engine sounds.
 
I'm starting to wonder if maybe it is just loud. But, I just want to make sure all is well. I've decided that I'm going to pick up a block and start building a replacement anyway. Engine kits are fairly cheap from engnbldr.com probably be a fun project.
 
Stethoscope, get one and listen around everywhere. Better yet, a plastic or fiberglass tube with a hose on it works just as good, and when you find an air leak, it blows air in your ear!

Exhaust gasket? Sounds like you could have one in that video, but its too hard to tell. Using stethoscope around all 4 tubes at the head will find out pdq.

Bent valve? That's a very rhythmic clacking sound, and its not on every fire. Have you readjusted your valves yet?

Leakdown test. This is free! Get the test gauge from parts store, check compression on engine, then if all is well, try leakdown test. That will determine after valve readjustment if the sound is still there, whether or not you have a bent valve or bad seat.

First thing to do with ANY new vehicle to you, is do a full tune-up. Not just change oil and filter either, I mean FULL tune up!
Change Oil
Change oil filter
Change air filter
Change plugs
check/change plug wires
change cap/rotor
time engine
set valves
check throttle body and clean if dirty
change belts

If it still runs strange after all of that, or you have inexplicable noises, then you go to diagnostic mode! Compression test will tell you all sorts of things, and its so easy to do, just unscrew plugs from engine, disconnect plug from coil or fuse for coil(so you don't get spark while testing), screw in adapter, connect meter, crank engine, write pressure down, move to next cylinder. Rinse, repeat, check numbers against specs for engine. If all is good, do leakdown test. Slightly harder but nothing a person who can handle a ratchet can't handle!

If all of that is good, then look for non-obvious stuff, like timing chain tensioner or chain itself, but I bet you get all that stuff above done, you'll find out a lot more about that engine.

Or, just say fawk it and run it till it blows up, and hope you have the other engine built before it does!
 
Stethoscope, get one and listen around everywhere. Better yet, a plastic or fiberglass tube with a hose on it works just as good, and when you find an air leak, it blows air in your ear!

Exhaust gasket? Sounds like you could have one in that video, but its too hard to tell. Using stethoscope around all 4 tubes at the head will find out pdq.

Bent valve? That's a very rhythmic clacking sound, and its not on every fire. Have you readjusted your valves yet?

Leakdown test. This is free! Get the test gauge from parts store, check compression on engine, then if all is well, try leakdown test. That will determine after valve readjustment if the sound is still there, whether or not you have a bent valve or bad seat.

First thing to do with ANY new vehicle to you, is do a full tune-up. Not just change oil and filter either, I mean FULL tune up!
Change Oil
Change oil filter
Change air filter
Change plugs
check/change plug wires
change cap/rotor
time engine
set valves
check throttle body and clean if dirty
change belts

If it still runs strange after all of that, or you have inexplicable noises, then you go to diagnostic mode! Compression test will tell you all sorts of things, and its so easy to do, just unscrew plugs from engine, disconnect plug from coil or fuse for coil(so you don't get spark while testing), screw in adapter, connect meter, crank engine, write pressure down, move to next cylinder. Rinse, repeat, check numbers against specs for engine. If all is good, do leakdown test. Slightly harder but nothing a person who can handle a ratchet can't handle!

If all of that is good, then look for non-obvious stuff, like timing chain tensioner or chain itself, but I bet you get all that stuff above done, you'll find out a lot more about that engine.

Or, just say fawk it and run it till it blows up, and hope you have the other engine built before it does!

Thanks man! I'm going to adjust the valves and set timing this weekend. Supposed to get up to 50 on sunday. Need a heater in my garage. I need a better set of feeler gauges, any recommendations? I also need to do something about the stiff suspension in the rear. The previous owner said he installed land cruiser leaf springs and I think he over tightened the u bolts or something because it rides like a dump truck.
 

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