I need to vent! ready to junk this truck!

kolelt

New member
First of, I will say I apologize to anyone who will feel offended in anyway. I respect you all whether you agree or disagree. First of, I am in the process of removing my third member out.To replace the bearings. Ive been trying for 4 hours to break it lose form the axle housing. Hasn't moved a hair!


I removed the elocker motor, only to find this!



I am not 100% sure how this happened. And how important it is. Because the little gear is still able to lock and unlock the locker.

Oh did i say ive been trying 4hrs to remove the third member out? Even tried the bottle jack method!

Then, i find out that I am missing a rear lower shock bolt! GREAT! Another issue is with ICON. They say they engineer their shocks and what not. I paid 3k for ICON shocks. Yet on full flex this happens!

Tire rubs the resi ( passanger side, notice the location of the compression knob)


Driver side ( notice location of compression knob )


Dude, 3k for a suspension and this is what they call engineering and testing out their products? Idc what you say, i shouldn't have to worry about my tire rubbing the resi, bending the mounting plate, damaging the compression dampening knob! and possible the resi falling of and getting ripped out!

Another thing. Toytec! I have toytec superflex coils. Clearly stating on their website that one coil is longer then the other to eliminate driver side lean and that they sit at 3' with 400lbs!

Im sitting bellow 3" in the back without 400lbs. Yes i have SAVAGE rear tire carrier with a spare tire. Definitely not 400lbs worth of stuff in the back.! And when i first installed these coils. Right away i had driver side lean. So why state on your website that it eliminates driver side lean?

The issue with my rear suspension sitting low, is I had ICON make me a custom length rear shock. EXACT SAME MEASUREMENTS AS WHAT TOYTEC REAR BOSS SHOCKS ARE, THAT THEY RECOMMEND WITH SUPERFLEX COILS

This is basically how much down travel i have
 
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Been there, done that. I even got so pissed once I took a 9 iron and threw it through a garage window.

I'd say give yourself an hour then try again. If no go, then punt till tomorrow.

Aftermarket items, unless extensively tested IMHO, has a high failure rate regardless of company motto/mission statement.

I also don't know how anyone above DC can do DYI repair without oxy/ace at hand. And a large drum of Kroil also.
 
I feel you on the rear springs when it comes to weight.. They were supposed to handle the weight of all the extra accessories and they didn't. Frustrating because the superflex cost more than the 861's that I put on that don't sag :(
 
Yeah it sucks when you guinea pig test some of the new stuff. I try to only install stuff that I know people have already reviewed.

I say keep at it and good luck.
 
do you guys think its even worth to try to contact toytec and ask for new srpings? or just add a 1" spacer maybe? What i really like about the superflex is they flex nice. And its the only coil that is suppose to give 3.75" of lift! Any alternatives?

And you would assume ICON tested their product and had to have tires rubbing no the resi!
 
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I'll take those rims and rear bumper off your hands. No sense letting the scrap yard have those. lol

Keep fighting the fight and good luck man.
 
Im going to JB Weld that elocker motor part. All it does is hold the seal in place
`

I feel your pain. I've shouted many a cuss word at that friggin truck. When I was removing my 3rd, it was stuck on. I was beating that M^$%r F%^%%r on the side with my 2lb sledge and a block of wood. No go. Come to find out that the eLocker motor was holding it on. That one long stud was completely corroded, bonding the aluminum to the metal stud. Broke one of the ears off of the locker motor housing and cracked the casing. Had that welded. Once I got that motor off, the 3rd dropped right off the axle housing.

Just hang in there. Walk away from it when it gets to be too much.

Where you at in NJ? North or South.
 
This is exactly why my 4Runners are as close to stock as possible, down to the the tire size. I won't settle on 265/75s, I want 265/70s. Everything just works in harmony when it's stock. I used to love tinkering but I realized I was perfectly happy with the 4Runner off the dealer lot and didn't want to ruin it by turning it into a testing ground.
 
I've spent the past week trying to track down an oil leak and a high idle with no codes thrown(I changed plugs and wires which probs has something to do with the high idle). Right now the oil leak looks like it's coming from the filter area. But I'm not sure 100% positive on it. Last night I was ready to put a bullet in the block I was so frustrated. I found that pwning some noobs on battlefield 1 helps.
 
This is exactly why my 4Runners are as close to stock as possible, down to the the tire size. I won't settle on 265/75s, I want 265/70s. Everything just works in harmony when it's stock. I used to love tinkering but I realized I was perfectly happy with the 4Runner off the dealer lot and didn't want to ruin it by turning it into a testing ground.


This x100
 
This is exactly why my 4Runners are as close to stock as possible, down to the the tire size. I won't settle on 265/75s, I want 265/70s. Everything just works in harmony when it's stock. I used to love tinkering but I realized I was perfectly happy with the 4Runner off the dealer lot and didn't want to ruin it by turning it into a testing ground.

That's a good reason to own 2!!
 
That's a good reason to own 2!!



I do own two! It's great being able to have a body on frame SUV from the 90s that just plain works. Seriously, I actually pass people on the highway and it can maintain 100mph.

A stock 3rd gen really isn't a bad daily.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
This is pretty much why I will never go bigger than 285s and I have tried to add as little extra weight as possible. In fact I should have stuck with 32s. It is also why I specially opted out of buying a rear tire carrier. My 285 spare fits in the factory tire spot. I'm at about 3" lift in the rear and 2" in the front with a 1" BL kit to boot.

I feel your pain. It must be very frustrating. Those aftermarket kits: Fox, Icon and yes King really only started showing up on this site sometime around 2012. When I joined back in 2011 they weren't as common.

Btw have you upgraded your spindles? Because when one of them breaks in a remote location, like what happened to me, you really will be in some deep sh#t far out from any roads or tow truck drivers. Luckily for me my buddy was there and saved my ass by towing me out with his Tacoma.

Not sure I understand why you are removing your elocker. At 245k miles I've never removed mine.
 
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Hang in there man and take a break every now and then. Unfortunately, it's all a part of wrenching. If you try and persist it usually begins to go down hill fast. Sorry to see all the rubbing going on with your Icon setup. As expensive as they are, from all of the reading on here that I've done, their system just doesn't seem to fit very good on our rigs. [MENTION=116387]Unner[/MENTION] just installed a set of 861's and his rig looks pretty good.Something to consider.

Look on the bright side of everything - you have an e-locker! You'll get there and this will all be behind you.
 
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Im going to JB Weld that elocker motor part. All it does is hold the seal in place

I've seen so many of those plates cracked and broken, including mine which is jb welded too. Been a year and a half and the e-locker works as should, but I wouldn't know the current condition of that plate unless I pulled the assembly. Mine was cracked only partially around.
PB158743_zps2qamr0g6.jpg~original


Unfortunately it does more than just the seal, you've probably figured that out already. Installed should hold that collar and thus the shaft steady.

The 'exploded' view after repair and re-gluing the magnets for giggles:
PB188749_zpsuvrnbmd2.jpg~original


I sorta want to pull the locker on the 99 to see how its plate looks, but only sorta.

x2 what JRZEE2000TR4LTD said on that long stud. You can see all the rust-colored b'lasted....rust on it. Superb----.
PB108681_zpsyrbyy28o.jpg~original


Was very careful about not prying anywhere but near the studs, but still have half a theory that was where the crack came from. My other half-theory is the r&p bust-up while it was locked did it in.

One of these days somebody will come out with a replacement for that plate...though demand will prolly be too low to make it worthwhile....so maybe not.


Rock_Rat is wise. Sometimes you have walk-away moments. I'm learning to listen to those. It'll still be there when I get back and am in a better frame of mind to handle the frustrating moments.
Good luck on your suspension frustrations, you'll get it figured one way or the other.
 

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