If you take it Toyota it will likely be pretty expensive. In Canada, the OEM axles are about 550 CAD dollars a piece, whereas aftermarket axles made by FEQ or NAPA, run about 150-200. In the US - these aftermarket axles can be under 100 dollars USD. Replacing them isn't too bad on your own, but you will need a few tools. If you take it to a shop, I'd say you will pay anywhere from 80-150 dollars in labor, and 150 dollars in parts.
Tools / parts needed:
-Floor jack, jack stand
-Wheel lug wrench, torque wrench (wheel lugs to 85lb/feet)
-Breaker bar / long 1/2" drive ratchet
-35mm or 1 3/8" impact socket for the axle nut (torqued to 217 lb/feet)
-replacement cotter pin for axle nut
-19mm impact socket for the lower spindle / lower control arm adapter (2 bolts torqued to 166lb/feet)
-17mm impact socket for the disc brake calliper bolts (2 bolts torqued to 91lb/feet
-slide hammer with a short 90 degree attachment to grip the axle
-A large pipe clamp to hold the slide hammer to the axle (you can do this other ways, but this is by far the most effective not to damage any of the gearing in the diff)
-Replacement axle : aftermarket at rockauto is the cheapest (CV axle - they are the same on both sides)
-Not absolutely necessary - but it might be a good idea to replace the differential seal on the side you are replacing the axle. These seals are different for each side.
-It might also be a good idea to replace the spindle/axle seal if you are putting in new axles, again not entirely necessary, but might be a good idea.
Procedure:
-Jack up the truck on the corner you are working on, the rest the truck on a jack stand
-Pop off the wheel - (sometimes a good idea to break the hold on the wheel lugs with the wheel still planted on the ground to give you better leverage - up in the air the wheel will spin making it tough sometimes to undo the lug nuts)
-Pop off the calliper bolts
-Hang the calliper off a bungee cord (maybe also undo the brake line bracket on the middle of the spindle - to give yourself a bit more room)
-Pop off the hub dust cap - be very gentle as this will bend / distort easily, might need some penetrating oil if rusty
-Pull the axle cotter pin
-Undo the axle nut (breaker bar resting on a jack stand at the right height, or air impact to remove. Might also be necessary to put the wheel back on, rest the truck back on the wheel, and then break loose, to give yourself some more leverage)
-Once the axle nut is off, give the axle a couple taps with a rubber mallet to see if it moves - it should budge into the spindle a bit.
-Pop of the spindle / lower control arm adapter plate bolts and swing the spindle assembly to the front side of the vehicle. It might be necessary to remove the swaybar end link, or the steering tie rod end from the spindle - but depending on how you align the tires before you start - you may or may not be able to get away with this
-Once the spindle is out of the way - and you've worked the axle in, push it all the way through the spindle and free it from the spindle.
-Grab your slide hammer with the 90 degree attachment - and hold it to the notch on the inner stub of the axle with a pipe clamp or something else that will ensure it stays there when you use the slide hammer. The axle is held in place by a piece of spring steel in a circumferential shape that rests in a small groove at the end of the axle - inside the differential. This spring steel responds best to a fast / high moment of inertia rather than slow and steady pressure. You need a big hammer, or a big strong mass of slide hammer to break it free. Once it comes out, you can slide out the old axle - and replace it with the new one. Be gentle, as the gearing is sensitive.
-If you are going to change the diff fluid - now is your chance, as well the seals on either end of the axle.
-Repeat in reverse to button it back together.
It shouldn't really take longer than about a half hour if you have done it before (i.e.: at the shop with a trained and experienced mechanic), if never having done it - it could take a few hours and few more cold ones
