I think my AC is already broken.

[THEDK]

20 minute drive around town, takes about 10 minutes for it not blow hot. Barely started blowing cool (not cold) when I parked at home. Right now it's only 100, so not even that bad.

Driving my 60 minute commute home, after about 30 minutes it gets fairly cool (not cold) and for the next while, goes between "cool" and "slightly cooler than ambient." Have to run the fan at 100% the entire drive.

If the temperature is under 80 and not sunny (ie my drive to work at 5am) the car will get fairly cool, enough that I can put the fan on 80% instead of 100%.

By comparison, it's *slightly* better than my old subaru wagon when it had a leaking line behind the compresso.

It's much worse than my 2007 tundra. The 2007 tundra gets "cool" around 5 minutes, and I can usually turn the fan down to 50% after 10-15 minutes.


(Both the tundra and 4r are dark silver.)

I have noticed that the 4r doesn't seem to get as hot inside as the tundra does when parked. So it even starts cooler.

I've read some threads that some people weren't totally happy with AC performance, and others aid theirs "freezes them out."

 

[camp406]

I have owned my '14 TEP for about three months and the A/C is one of my only complaints. It doesn't get as cold as other cars I have owned and it certainly takes a while to get cool.

The only other complaint I have is the audio system.


There are certainly worse things that we could be complaining about, I love the truck otherwise.

 

[1engineer]

Make sure its on recirculate.

 

[THEDK]

yep on recirc.

sounds like it might just be a weak system then.

 

[1engineer]

I actually have some times as, well, I just think like that lol:
Location: Florida
Time: July 1-6 2014
Temps: Low of 82 high of 101 and high humidity.
It took about 3 minutes on max cool with recirc on to feel cold air.
After 5-10 minutes temps drop inside enough to turn the fan down off high and recirc off.
You might want to get it checked.

 

[3wbdriver]

I don't think it's a weak system. Get it checked. Mine is blowing cold before I get the 50' to the end of my driveway and I live in hot and humid Louisiana. It rarely needs more than 5 minutes to cool down the interior enough to allow me to turn the fan down a little. At high Hades noon maybe 10 minutes.

 

[THEDK]

Thanks. Sounds like an excuse to buy an infrared thermometer as a sanity check before I bring it in.

 

[Taco04]

Yup there must be something wrong I saw 102 at a drill site sight Thursday and the heat index was 112 with crazy humidity. I had both my Dodge Cummins and 4runner there and the runner cooled down in zero time not even moving. My AC works great it takes no time to cool down and then I am pulling the fan back so I cant believe yours is working properly. Any way good luck!

 

[buchaja]

Another one with really cold air here. It hit 100F last week and I was driving around cool as a cucumber. Get it checked, and I hope they get it working properly for you.

 

[jrandom]

Thought the same thing when I first got mine My 3rd gen cooled down a bit quicker BUT the cabin was smaller and it didn't have a cabin air filter either. I think those two things make up a bit of the difference. Not that it is terrible now, gets plenty cold just takes a bit longer.

 

[rigtec]

Hi [MENTION=112081]THEDK[/MENTION],

I don't know what yr or trim you have but that doesn't really apply. Our 5G 4runners have some of the beefiest a/c systems going; possibly a bit oversized! I say that to establish the fact that there are no system design flaws in these trucks, 5 mins after the truck is running and the air gets totally frigid! Take it back to the dealership and have the system "Evacuated and recharged".

The reason I specified having it evac'd is because there may be air in the system. Once air gets in, there's no way to receive a complete refrigerant charge; the air displaces the refrigerant so there won't be a way to get the proper amount (in ounces/lbs) into the system w/o removing the entire charge and then pulling a vacuum (to remove the air/moisture), and then charging it to spec! Don't allow them to just "top-it-off". Remove and replace a potentially contaminated refrigerant charge and you'll be just fine!

rig

 

[gm350reratliff]

Hi [MENTION=112081]THEDK[/MENTION],

I don't know what yr or trim you have but that doesn't really apply. Our 5G 4runners have some of the beefiest a/c systems going; possibly a bit oversized! I say that to establish the fact that there are no system design flaws in these trucks, 5 mins after the truck is running and the air gets totally frigid! Take it back to the dealership and have the system "Evacuated and recharged".

The reason I specified having it evac'd is because there may be air in the system. Once air gets in, there's no way to receive a complete refrigerant charge; the air displaces the refrigerant so there won't be a way to get the proper amount (in ounces/lbs) into the system w/o removing the entire charge and then pulling a vacuum (to remove the air/moisture), and then charging it to spec! Don't allow them to just "top-it-off". Remove and replace a potentially contaminated refrigerant charge and you'll be just fine!

rig

This^^^

It sounds like it could be low and/or have a leak in the system. It sucks but sometimes these things happen. I would take it in, something isn't right. Both my 2008 and 2014 4runners can freeze me ( I like it COLD :smow: ) out no problem.

Now the 2012 F150 I just traded in, that AC system is way undersized. It would never really get cold but the dealer claims it was charged and working correctly. I ended up insulating the AC lines which helped but it wasn't near as cold as I would like it.

 

[rigtec]

This^^^

"It sounds like it could be low and/or have a leak in the system..."

You're right gm, there could be a leak. I agree fully (comm'l hvac/r technical specialist), and know that any system can develop a leak. What we don't know is whether the system leaks or was improperly charged from the factory. The way the OP described his trouble, it sounded as if the a/c never performed well because he was asking if anybody else here was having the same problem. So we approach this from the ground up, meaning that we give this truck a complete fresh full charge to start with; no chance of any air or moisture in the system at that point. If they just add freon to the existing "unknown" charge (the unknown could be dry nitrogen still in the system from the factory) and there is air in the system, the a/c may work 'somewhat' better, but the OP will experience nominal cooling effect and take it back to the dealership.

The next technician that checks the truck may check pressures only (no delta-t, ambient temps, superheat or sub-cooling status), find the system working and dismiss it as, "customer OCD"! If there is a leak, he'll find out as he uses the a/c; cooling effect will gradually (or dramatically) diminish, so he'll schedule a leak test and bring it back knowing that there's a leak and they will perform a proper leak test. Normally on a "no cooling" call, if we know that the unit has been running properly until now, we will charge an a/c system (provided that the trouble is refrigerant related) to the proper level just to cool the building down, and then return at a later date to check the charge. If it is low on charge when we return, we know that there is a leak somewhere, resulting in a leak test and repair. Better (imho) to start from scratch with a fresh full charge and go from there.

Best to you!

 

[Antman]

Make sure the cabin air filter is clean/installed correctly.

 

[cbreze]

OP, sounds like you should get it checked out. I've noticed living in a place with cold winters now(used to be in AZ) and only using the AC in warm summer months(2) it takes some usage to get it to blow cold. Doesn't come out warm just not as cold as it should for the first few uses. Makes me think the Freon(they still call it that?) needs to get mixed up a bit or something. Of course using the defroster in winter helps the compressor stay lubed up, but not running it on cold setting in winter for any Freon circulation.(or maybe it circulates no matter what)Brrrrr..:wow:

 

[Snooperstyle]

Not sure about our 4runners, but in my wife's car (VW) there is a relay that kicks on the compressor that is under the dash. In the Passats, those relays go bad a lot because of a bad solder connection on the circuit board inside of the relay. I'm not saying that our 4runners have this same issue, but before taking it to the dealer, you should ensure that the compressor is even kicking on shortly after you turn it on while you are sitting in the driveway. You mentioned that it would get colder like 20 minutes after turning it on. This is a similar symptom of the VW's with the relay issue. Essentially it would kick it on intermittently but not all the time as needed (I think).

Obviously, if your compressor is indeed kicking on, then I would take it in. Personally, I would just hate for them to go messing around with the freon and all, when it might be one simple replay gone bad.

Someone please correct me if I am off base here. I don't want to mislead...

 

[Salvo]

My 2014 TE is only a few weeks old, but the AC will freeze me out easily on 95+ degree days in South Louisiana. The AC in my 07 Tacoma was maybe half as capable with much less cabin space. Keep us posted on what you find and I hope there's a simple fix for you.

 

[THEDK]

It is kicking on... Turning the ac off results in the slightly cool air turning warm. Ill get the temos coming out then call the dealer if they are too high.

 

[rigtec]

It is kicking on... Turning the ac off results in the slightly cool air turning warm. Ill get the temos coming out then call the dealer if they are too high.

With an ambient temp of 80 deg'f, (cabin temp = 75) a 40 deg discharge air temp (after running 5 mins) would be considered adequate cooling or normal.

rigtec