IAC Valve - Ebay?

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Kyngfish

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Hola

Having an issue where my car dies when I'm in drive sometimes, stopped at a light, or just in drive when I'm not giving it gas. Figure it's probably something to do with the Throttle Body/IAC - I'm going to open it up this weekend and give it a cleaning. If it's really gunked up I'll clean it and see what happens, but my thought is that the IAC valve either has a bad connection, or is just going and this is why:

  • Car idles solid, it's a little harder to start when cold, but generally no rough idle or rough running
  • Failure is very intermittent and so far has only happened when the car has been running for a while

I figure if it was filth causing the issue, it would be less intermittent and more frequent, and I'd have more constant issues with the idle, but I welcome your thoughts.

So to my point. A new IAC from Amazon is 200. A "New" one from ebay is like 40 bucks. An OEM remanufactured one from ebay is like 45 bucks.

Anyone have any experience with these?
 
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Kyngfish said:
Hola

Having an issue where my car dies when I'm in drive sometimes, stopped at a light, or just in drive when I'm not giving it gas. Figure it's probably something to do with the Throttle Body/IAC - I'm going to open it up this weekend and give it a cleaning. If it's really gunked up I'll clean it and see what happens, but my thought is that the IAC valve either has a bad connection, or is just going and this is why:

  • Car idles solid, it's a little harder to start when cold, but generally no rough idle or rough running
  • Failure is very intermittent and so far has only happened when the car has been running for a while

I figure if it was filth causing the issue, it would be less intermittent and more frequent, and I'd have more constant issues with the idle, but I welcome your thoughts.

So to my point. A new IAC from Amazon is 200. A "New" one from ebay is like 40 bucks. An OEM remanufactured one from ebay is like 45 bucks.

Anyone have any experience with these?
Click to expand...
.

IAC issues can be intermittent and they clean up very well. You need to take it off the engine and do it right. I am not one of the OEM only guys but for precision parts including electrical sensors and actuators, I almost always go OEM and am very careful buying on Ebay.

Buckaroo
 
Kyngfish said:
Hola

Having an issue where my car dies when I'm in drive sometimes, stopped at a light, or just in drive when I'm not giving it gas. Figure it's probably something to do with the Throttle Body/IAC - I'm going to open it up this weekend and give it a cleaning. If it's really gunked up I'll clean it and see what happens, but my thought is that the IAC valve either has a bad connection, or is just going and this is why:

  • Car idles solid, it's a little harder to start when cold, but generally no rough idle or rough running
  • Failure is very intermittent and so far has only happened when the car has been running for a while

I figure if it was filth causing the issue, it would be less intermittent and more frequent, and I'd have more constant issues with the idle, but I welcome your thoughts.

So to my point. A new IAC from Amazon is 200. A "New" one from ebay is like 40 bucks. An OEM remanufactured one from ebay is like 45 bucks.

Anyone have any experience with these?
Click to expand...


I have a 98 limited 4x4 just like you. My issues were similar and I tried everything. Mine usually stalled after getting off the freeway and at a stoplight. The weather was always hot as well. After almost a year of trouble shooting, it was a bad evap canister. I would not even go aftermarket for either the IAC valve or evap canister. I paid around $180 for the IAC valve from Camelback Toyota and around $230 for the evap canister. Read my thread for more detailed information.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/188455-help-intermittent-stalling-tried-everything.html
 
Clean it first and see what happens. At the worst buy a new gasket from the dealer. Only OEM here if a new one you so desire. Also change the PCV valve with a new OEM one as well.
 
Try unplugging the IAC and see how it acts.

I was having similar IAC issues a while ago. I wasn't going to pay for the OEM since I wasn't sure that was the problem so I bought a $30 one from eBay. Worked great and haven't had problems (that weren't my own making) since. If it craps out, I'll get an OEM but it's been over a year.
 
TXRick said:
Try unplugging the IAC and see how it acts.

I was having similar IAC issues a while ago. I wasn't going to pay for the OEM since I wasn't sure that was the problem so I bought a $30 one from eBay. Worked great and haven't had problems (that weren't my own making) since. If it craps out, I'll get an OEM but it's been over a year.
Click to expand...

The ones I'm seeing have really good warranties and are supposed to be OEM reman - I figure 40 is cheap enough and the install easy enough that who cares.
[MENTION=114619]cbr900boy[/MENTION] Good lookin out on the evap canister though I'll check that as well.
 
Kyngfish said:
The ones I'm seeing have really good warranties and are supposed to be OEM reman - I figure 40 is cheap enough and the install easy enough that who cares.

[MENTION=114619]cbr900boy[/MENTION] Good lookin out on the evap canister though I'll check that as well.
Click to expand...

Yeah, everything pointed to IAC but no codes and I took out the old IAC, bench tested fine. I couldn't throw $200 at a maybe.
 
TXRick said:
Yeah, everything pointed to IAC but no codes and I took out the old IAC, bench tested fine. I couldn't throw $200 at a maybe.
Click to expand...

I tested my IAC in the truck by running wire from the battery to IAC directly. It worked on both sides consistently. I assume this would be a good way to test the IAC instead of removing from the truck.
You dont get to see the entire IAC to determine if anything is stuck or not fully opening/closing, but it could help save time for some.
 
bentos1 said:
I tested my IAC in the truck by running wire from the battery to IAC directly. It worked on both sides consistently. I assume this would be a good way to test the IAC instead of removing from the truck.
You dont get to see the entire IAC to determine if anything is stuck or not fully opening/closing, but it could help save time for some.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's not a bad way to save some time but if you are having IAC problems, the first step is usually to remove it and clean it all up. The only thing to really worry about are the screws that can easily be stripped.
 
I tried the cheap ebay ones because I was too lazy to clean my original one.

Long story short, I had to clean my original IAC and put it back there and the ebay part is in a bin somewhere in case of emergency.

Save your time and money, clean yours. I used some throttle body cleaner to do the job and let it soak for a few hours.
 
TXRick said:
Yeah, that's not a bad way to save some time but if you are having IAC problems, the first step is usually to remove it and clean it all up. The only thing to really worry about are the screws that can easily be stripped.
Click to expand...

I'm guessing they are like the MAF screws and you want to use a JIS screwdriver. Regular Phillips on a JIS screw will strip 4 out of 5 times (or something like that.)

https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU
 
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