Did the timing belt, water pump, brakes, etc on our 2001 4Runner yesterday. I've been wrenching quite a few years and have done complete tear downs on Supras, Celicas, couple hondas etc so doing the timing belt wasn't a question of IF I would do it or take it to the dealership. I just knew that when the time came I would do it.
Anyway... I HATE the bolt on Crankshaft Pulleys. After I finally got this one off (using a pin in the pulley and a 24" extension bar through a hole in the frame cross member and a 4' long cheater bar on my breaker bar) I did the work and put everything back together. Course... by this time the pin I had in the pulley had had just about all it was willing to take and began to bend when I was torquing the bolt. I got it to 80 Ft/Lb and left it for now.
Ok... long speech just to get to this part I found. I have one that I use for Hondas, but didn't realize they sold one for our engine (until now). It's a spanner type wrench head probably very similar to what the Toyota techs use. You attach it to the pulley using the pins, then attach a socket wrench breaker bar to it with the square hole. Lock that against a frame rail or the ground and you're golden. No more chain wrenches slipping, bumping the starter, etc. you'll still need a long cheater bar on your breaker bar for the bolt, but at least you're sure the pulley isn't moving. I ordered one to help me get this bolt into spec and I'm sure I'll use it again. Actually, my dad will probably use it next for his 01 Tundra.
So... here's the link. I didn't see anyone talking about these when I was searching so I hope this isn't old news. Maybe at least someone in the middle of a wrench job can use the info. Kind of pricy but if it's decent quality, is priceless when you're trying to get that bolt off and on.
SP 64400|SP 64400|SCH64400|Schley 64400
Anyway... I HATE the bolt on Crankshaft Pulleys. After I finally got this one off (using a pin in the pulley and a 24" extension bar through a hole in the frame cross member and a 4' long cheater bar on my breaker bar) I did the work and put everything back together. Course... by this time the pin I had in the pulley had had just about all it was willing to take and began to bend when I was torquing the bolt. I got it to 80 Ft/Lb and left it for now.
Ok... long speech just to get to this part I found. I have one that I use for Hondas, but didn't realize they sold one for our engine (until now). It's a spanner type wrench head probably very similar to what the Toyota techs use. You attach it to the pulley using the pins, then attach a socket wrench breaker bar to it with the square hole. Lock that against a frame rail or the ground and you're golden. No more chain wrenches slipping, bumping the starter, etc. you'll still need a long cheater bar on your breaker bar for the bolt, but at least you're sure the pulley isn't moving. I ordered one to help me get this bolt into spec and I'm sure I'll use it again. Actually, my dad will probably use it next for his 01 Tundra.
So... here's the link. I didn't see anyone talking about these when I was searching so I hope this isn't old news. Maybe at least someone in the middle of a wrench job can use the info. Kind of pricy but if it's decent quality, is priceless when you're trying to get that bolt off and on.
SP 64400|SP 64400|SCH64400|Schley 64400
