IFS flex

i've ran sway bar disconnects like Blackworks posted on a Chevy truck before. you only need to disconnect the end links, why are you trying to make some complicated splined sway bar when all that needs to be removed is the sway bar end links?

The design of the sway bar is VERY close to the spring assemblies, even more so when you install a lift like a Toytec or OLW. The relocation spacers bring the edges of the sway bar within an inch or two of the coil spring. While removable end links would work. Due to the tight clearance, many are worried that on rougher roads or under uneven flex, the sway bar could damage suspension components. Its not so much about it flopping about as it is that its so close to the spring/strut assembly when installed properly already, when its left to hang by itself and the rest of the suspension moves it could cause binding/damage.
 
Interesting that some people see no change when the sway bar is disconnected and others find it scary. I suspect it has everything to do with aftermarket suspensions and wonder if there's any correlation between which aftermarket product and stiffness.

I tossed my sway bar long ago and have an OME suspension and see no need. What do others with different (or the same) find is their experience?
 
I have OME HD 886 strut towers up front I feel my body roll would be less than that of a stock truck with a away bar on.... haven't had mine on for 6 months now love the way it handles even when towing. however I'm not running the proper preloaded weight on the springs there setup for a bumper dual batteries and winch addition to the front of the truck.. on the to do list.. I see much better travel or flex offroad and a smoother ride with out the sway bar
 
Most likely the reason behind the sway bars not affecting people with lifts as much is due to the fact most of the lift kits come with stiffer springs to offset weight added in the form of bumpers and more offroad oriented valving in the shocks. (the 2.5" OLW kit uses 700lbs Eibach springs)

I like how that FJ's disconnect system is set up. That would be a good approach to the difficulties with our sway bar, since its still connected on one end and would actuate with the suspension on that side and the other is completely clear of the spring.

My only improvement on that design would be to adapt it to our 4Runners (shouldn't be too hard the FJ's are based on the 120 Platform and run similar suspension parts) and to make the removable section of the sway bar easy to remove; instead of bolts some sort of quick pin or latch that would hold up to normal duty but allow easy removal without tools.
 
IFS will flex alot more than that, depending on what suspension you have and if you have your swaybar connected.
As an example, and Ive seen better flex from my friends IFS:
DSC_0183.JPG

DSC_1435.JPG
 
I have a somewhat related question.

Now that I am lifted do I "NEED" adjustible control arms. I was told by a local shop that my 4R will not be Alignable with the 3 inch lift and factory control arms.

Is this true or are they trying to get into my wallet?
 
It will be very difficult if not impossible to align the vehicle to factory specs without them. But I think some members have done okay without them.
 
It will be very difficult if not impossible to align the vehicle to factory specs without them. But I think some members have done okay without them.

I agree... I drove lifted with my stock UCA's for almost a year before changing over to TC arms. I thought it was ok on the stock arms, but it was a brand new truck with the TC arms. At highway speeds it's so much better
 
I have a somewhat related question.

Now that I am lifted do I "NEED" adjustible control arms. I was told by a local shop that my 4R will not be Alignable with the 3 inch lift and factory control arms.

Is this true or are they trying to get into my wallet?

I'm a little over 3" with OEM arms and my shop got the alignment back to stock numbers without any problems. I did just pick up a set of LR uca's from the group buy, we'll see how those feel in a few days.
 
I have a somewhat related question.

Now that I am lifted do I "NEED" adjustible control arms. I was told by a local shop that my 4R will not be Alignable with the 3 inch lift and factory control arms.

Is this true or are they trying to get into my wallet?

I'm not so sure you really need them, and I can think of several places on the truck or wife to spend the money that would make much more sence. I'm still runnin stock UCA's problem free with no alignment issues.
 

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