Impact Gun on Crank Bolt???

PitbullRescuer

New member
So, now that Tyrone is running right again, I'm thinking when I get back from vacation I may tackle the timing belt/water pump job. I'll do a few other things while I'm in there too including a new radiator.

It looks to me, with the radiator out of the way, it'd be possible to get an impact gun on the crank bolt. Thus, eliminating the need for any kind of special tool to hold the crank in place while trying to break the bolt loose.

Any input?
 
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Every time we do a 3.4 timing belt, we pull the radiator and use a gun on the crank nut. Works very well, no special tools.
 
I used it one with no problems ... also wedging a breaker bar against the frame and turning the motor over works as a last resort :)
 
hey once your there can you replace the crank shaft seal or do you need to rip into the lower half of the motor? which side is the seal on?
 
Take a pic of it on there and post for all to see, including me.

I remember a couple of years back where some guy tried using an impact to change his on YT and fubarred the bolt. I thought it was more of a problem with operator error.
 
impact gun use

I would have no problem with using the impact gun to take the bolt off. But, I would not use it to put it back on. If you snap that bolt off, you're looking at a real pain in the ass. Worst case is rip engine apart and replace the crank. Just make sure your torque the **** out of when you put it back on. I thought it was enough on my wifes civic but 3 months later the bolt backed out, harmonic damper started to wobble, then bolt sheared and damper went flying. Luckily there was enough of the bolt there that I could get a hold of it and take it out but the dampener was toast. I know when I do mine, I'm using a new bolt with a dab of locktite.
 
Only commenting because I recently did the TB/WP job, but the idea of using an impact wrench there kinda freaks me out. I had no trouble breaking mine loose with a breaker bar and a pulley holder. It took some force, but I did it manually. And definitely don't impact the bolt back in. Make sure to get it to spec. See here: MOTOR Magazine Article | MOTOR Information Systems

I apologize if you already know this, as you have been way farther into the 3.4L than I have.

Also, I have a universal pulley holder that worked great for me. You're welcome to borrow it (mail back and forth) if you don't find another option.
 
You can borrow my 2x4 holder tool to put it back, if you want to. It's really long, so even an old guy like me could easily get to spec torque with my left on the 2x4 and my right on the torque wrench. I can drop it off like we did before. I should not need it until about 2019. (I plan to change next at 240K as I did it all at 120k 2 years ago). I did the starter bump to take it off--it worked perfectly.
 
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Freshley almost had it right... Impact it off, TORQUE IT BACK ON TO SPEC. If you don't have an appropriate torque wrench borrow one, buy one, rent one (make sure they're properly calibrated in each of these three scenarios), or pay someone else to do it.
 

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