imposible to fix floater gas gauge error reading in 4runner 99

[jakov]

well this month i have take down or off the fuel tank 6 times I have put 2 more floaters and checked them in the outside and reads fine but in the inside is different not read the new gas filled and got stuck, it seems a very common problem but I havent have this kind of problems in all my toyotas before, wheres the problem its starting to drive me crazy... nobody can find the trouble.. some advises, I know its the floater cause when we move and turn open the ignition on it read fine without gas (i mean checking the floater in the outside)but we put the tank and got stuck again.. I hope moderators and users could help me out... :happens:

 

[004Gunner]

Unfortunately the fix isn't that simple. You actually have to do a lot more and the price isn't very reasonable either. Try this link

 

[jakov]

one reply

duhh anhemic feedback.. well maybe we doesnt open every thread we see, until the problem is ours
even so maybe theres another experiences

 

[notrayray]

Have you tried the TSB EL010-90 for calibration?

Here is the text from it, never could find the actual .pdf....

TSB #EL010-99 that has the procedure for calibrating the fuel gauge.

This is for 1999 & 2000 model year 4Runners.

1. After replacing the meter circuit plate or inclination sensor, move the vehicle to a level location. (A surface with an inclination no greater than +- 0.5" is the target flatness)

2. With the ignition switch in the "OFF" position, press and hold the trip reset button.

3. Continue pressing the trip reset button while turning the ignition switch to the "ON" position.

4. Within 5 seconds of turning the ignition switch "ON", release the trip switch, press the trip switch 3 times, and on the third press hold the switch for 5 seconds. The buzzer will sound for 1 second at 800Hz.

5. After the buzzer stops, release the trip switch.

6. Press the trip switch one more time and hold for 5 seconds. Once more, the buzzer will sound for 1 second at 800 Hz.

7. The calibration process is completed.

Note: If in the operation of step 6, the buzzersounds higher than that of step 5, turn the ignition switch to "OFF" position and repeat the setting procedure from step 2.

 

[4RunnerDNA]

duhh anhemic feedback.. well maybe we doesnt open every thread we see, until the problem is ours
even so maybe theres another experiences

The feedback you got from 004Gunner was spot on and perfect.
Where does your VIN fall?

 

[steezemcqueen]

The feedback you got from 004Gunner was spot on and perfect.
Where does your VIN fall?

x2...

 

[TC4Rnr]

get a ScangaugeII, all problems solved.

 

[aeroneer1]

get a ScangaugeII, all problems solved.

Time for a little thread reviving!

I'm having some issues with my gas gauge as well. If I stop and go through town for a week, then it'll act normal and go down and eventually light will come on. I'll fill it up, and it's about as much as it should be for the tank size.

But if I drive long distances, it could run out of gas at the half-tank mark, because the sensing system can't keep up with it.

Anyway, I'm thinking about how to go about overcoming this issue. First I was thinking replacing the gauge (I guess I'd have to get a whole new instrument cluster? Then my odo will be off, but whatever).

But then I was also thinking of picking up a scangaugeII. But I'm correct in thinking that if the problem is at the tank, the scangauge will read incorrectly also ?

If it does read incorrectly, then I at least know it's not my gauge, and the sending unit / sensor needs to be replaced.

 

[xhimsa12x]

I just bought a 99 and it has this problem. As soon as I fill it, the gauge instantly goes to Empty and the light is flashing even though I just filled it up.

 

[JWaldz]

Unfortunately, Toyota won't admit to this problem being theirs and there hasn't been a recall. I wish there was as mine, along with plenty others on this forum, has been acting up for quite some time. I have to use my tripometer to make sure I don't run out of gas. I learned the hard way when my gauge acted up the first time. Currently and for a while now as soon as I fill to full, it will drop to E within a few minutes. After 15 or so miles it will rise back to full and act normal(ish) till it gets down to around half a tank, then stop and not move any farther. I have yet to try the re-calibration trick, but my guess is that it will not fix it.

 

[ChildrenOfBodom]

I've done the TSB fix, both the motherboard and the new sender unit.

I also have the symptoms described by Jwaldz, about identical.

Recalibration did not work no matter how many times or methods I've tried.

 

[cj80cruiser]

My 96 has gas gauge issues as well but this unusually long cold spell we've been having in Alabama has made it worse. Seems it affects most all years.

 

[JWaldz]

I've done the TSB fix, both the motherboard and the new sender unit.

I also have the symptoms described by Jwaldz, about identical.

Recalibration did not work no matter how many times or methods I've tried.

You did the TSB fix and it did nothing for you? WTF? That's reassuring.

 

[ChildrenOfBodom]

You did the TSB fix and it did nothing for you? WTF? That's reassuring.

i hate my iphone so so so much. I wrote the most detailed reply, it randomly loads another page and POOF! All gone!



I should have worded my post differently. The gauge worked like new. Flawless accuracy meant that reserve was actually reserve, the consistency was mind blowing in comparison.

This link will take you to the post: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/61636-cobs-4runner-timeline-pic-heavy-41.html#post902919


Then, one day, it mimicked its former self by reading completely wrong at startup. It was a rare occurrence, but grew more common. Out of the blue, the gauge had enough of being accurate and decided that 1/3 tank was the new location for Empty.

I have tried recalibrating on angles, flat, hot, cold, morning, night, filled up, empty, you name it. Sucker doesn't budge. Letting it sit with the battery undone didn't change anything either.

Filling it up is the weirdest part about it. The needle gets pegged up so high on the gauge that it actually malfunctions even further, dropping the needle to the bottom after 15-20 seconds, gas light blinking. It will continue to do so every startup until I've gone through at least 1/3 tank of fuel, to compensate for the new Empty level.


Immediately after a fillup

The light was blinking, but I snapped the photo when it was off. Completely useless.

Now see this picture... Notice the trip gauge. That was set when the tank was filled, 63.6 miles before. The fuel gauge is still stuck pegged to the top.

 

[Drcoffee]

Before you tear apart the tank and gauge, try a tier 1 gasoline. My 99 had a fuel gauge issue when I filled up with speedway gas. I ran mobil on the next tank the problem disappeared.

 

[kissmybass]

thought i'd let everyone know that I fixed my issue... it was a bad ground wire at the harness. I just ttapped into the existing black/brown ground and ran a new one to the battery for a quick test. Gauge worked perfect again...

 

[dmag310]

thought i'd let everyone know that I fixed my issue... it was a bad ground wire at the harness. I just ttapped into the existing black/brown ground and ran a new one to the battery for a quick test. Gauge worked perfect again...

I'm clueless when it comes to electrical, where is the ground for the harness? i gotta give this a try

 

[ChildrenOfBodom]

I should update that my issue was fixed a couple years ago. Turned out to be my fault the second time around.

The motherboard had a burn in it which shorted it. This also explained why my headlights would not shut off with the door switch like they used to. I caused this on accident when I was doing some light wiring some time ago.

Replaced the motherboard again and it's been flawless since.

My setup is the TSB updated combination meter motherboard and sender unit and it works great.

 

[marcus clarkus]

I should update that my issue was fixed a couple years ago. Turned out to be my fault the second time around.

The motherboard had a burn in it which shorted it. This also explained why my headlights would not shut off with the door switch like they used to. I caused this on accident when I was doing some light wiring some time ago.

Replaced the motherboard again and it's been flawless since.

My setup is the TSB updated combination meter motherboard and sender unit and it works great.

Thanks for the update!

Did you have to drop the whole tank out to install the sender? And did the dealership sell you the new motherboard? (With the correct odometer reading?) Thanks