In need of some assistance.......please?

[GX4SEVEND]

I need help changing my cv joints and lower ball joints. I don't have all the tools or the space to do the work if I did. It's to the point that I don't think it's safe to drive so I would most likely tow it to wherever we can work on it.

So.....is Oregon having a maintenance/meet party anytime soon?

Would anyone be willing to help me?

 

[nilson]

All you need is one parking space, a $30 ratchet set (or wrenches), axle nut socket ($15+ at parts store), and a hammer... Oh, and a jack and jackstands or concrete blocks.

But hopefully you can find someone close by! I learned how to do it by just doing it

 

[LittleCaesar]

Where is Elton these days?

LBJs should take about 1~1.5hrs. I'd recommend renting both small and large pitman pullers from NoZone or the like. Also need a 14mm and 19mm socket along with a 3/8 ratchet. Jackstands and a jack of course. Not a real need for an alignment here.

The CVs, at least the first time, can be a little daunting, but not hard:
Toyota Maintenance: CV Axle Replacement on 3rd Generation 4Runners and Tacomas

In addition to the write-up, I'd cut the inner shaft boot ring and pull the shaft and joint out first, leaving only the inner housing in the diff (makes it lighter to work with). I actually use a molding pry bar to pry the inner housing out of the diff. If working solo, for the install, grab some oversized zip ties and zip the new CV to the coil spring so the new is parallel to the diff. Line the teeth up, put one end of the long pry bar on the CV and then raise the pry bar against the frame. Then smack the other end of the pry bar and the new CV should go in.

Good luck.

 

[GX4SEVEND]

Seems like a pretty big job to do alone for the first time, don't ya think? Does it just sound more difficult than it really is? I just dont want to attempt it and get 75% of the way done and get stuck and be like oh $hit!

 

[IanB]

For the CV's I would just get new axles, and swap the complete units out, no messing around with the CV's, boots, etc that way, much faster/easier job, and not a lot more money. Might as well change the front diff fluid at the same time.

LBJ's aren't too bad to do either, just make sure you read through the DIY a couple times 1st, make sure you have all the tools you'll need before you start, and have the factory service manual downloaded to refer to if you run into trouble.

 

[the great him]

man id say bring it up to portland but yeah if you dont wanta drive it that would be a $$$ spendy tow bill. i can change CVs in about 10min per side, they are not hard at all. LBJs are a little more difficult but not bad, you really dont even need a pickle fork, just a good 2.5lb hammer will pop the tie rods lose and knock the old LBJ out then just put the new ones in and use the bolts to suck them up tight. its best to have an impact to do this

 

[PitbullRescuer]

And if you do the OTRE's at the same time, you don't even need to separate them. Just unbolt the LBJ and then spin them out as one unit.

 

[LittleCaesar]

I would pop out the OTR from the LBJ and see if it droops down quickly. If so, then the ITR is gone as well, which is cheaper to replace and I would not recommend OEM (too pricey).

Snap some photos of everything underneath and post them. Maybe we can give more insightful feedback that way.

 

[GX4SEVEND]

I was think maybe just put it on a flat bed and rent a pick up and tow it to Portland. Still way cheaper then the dealership. I'm also thinking of just replacing everything while I'm at it. That way I start fresh.

 

[cj80cruiser]

You'll need a 35mm socket to remove the CV nuts.

This question will help me and the OP. How is everybody removing the grease cap on the axle hub without damage? I removed them on my part out truck so I'm thinking there might not be a way to do it without a little damage???

 

[IanB]

You'll need a 35mm socket to remove the CV nuts.

This question will help me and the OP. How is everybody removing the grease cap on the axle hub without damage? I removed them on my part out truck so I'm thinking there might not be a way to do it without a little damage???

I tapped a flathead screwdriver in the crease, then went a few inches to one side and did the same thing, rinse repeat, until you have a tiny gap all the way around. Then I used a flat punch with a wider wedge and did the same thing, and a wider flat punch until there is a good sized gap all the way around, then you can pry it off easily. Much easier with the wheels off the ground.

 

[NOT ME OR SOMEBODY]

Why is it unsafe to drive?

my .02

When I did the LBJs on mine I could not get the OTRE to separate from the LBJ with out destroying it. I ended up putting it all back together and ordered new OTRE s. (I actually damaged the castle nut so bad it was not re usable and had to use a 14 mm lug nut from the parts store to get by on since no one around here sells the castle nut only)

Then I was able to remove the OTREs and LBJ togther.

When removing the old OTRE be sure to accurately count the number of threads/rotations and put the new one in the same amount. This will get you close to where you were before you started, but you still will need a front end alignment. When I had my alignment done I asked the TECH to check the rear wheels as well since I have the adjustable panhard/track bar from SONORAN STEEL. It was right where it should be and in line with the front.

I would suggest only TOYOTA LBJs, and definitely get new LBJ BOLTS as well.( you will need 8), they come off with a 14mm wrench/ socket, and torque to 37 FT LBS, also its a good idea to use "blue removable loctite".

I did the left cv joint yesterday and it was not too bad but I definitely can't do it as fast as some claim. Yes 35mm socket for the axle nut and torque wrench is needed. ( the torque on the axle nut is 174 FT LBS)

You'll need at the MINIMUM a 14mm wrench, big hammer ( I like a 3LB ) 1/2 drive breaker bar, 35 mm Socket, side cutters, a large adjustable wrench, (18 ") channel locks, 19 mm socket, and the ratchet and extension a large chisel or brass bar, maybe one of those fork type ball joint separators, and maybe a few other tools.

YES IT SOUNDS LIKE A BIG JOB, BUT NOT TOO BAD IF YOU HAVE THE TOOLS AND RIGHT PARTS

 

[GX4SEVEND]

I think it's unsafe to drive because the cv is so far past the point of being damaged its actually now making the front end shake anytime I slightly turn the wheel. I'm now worried if I continue to drive it, it could possibly damage the front transfer case. Maybe I'm wrong.

I don't have a lot of the tools listed and I have only seen the cv joints done one time in person when Elton helped me last time. That's why I was asking for help to actually help me do the job, not just list what tools I need.

 

[NOT ME OR SOMEBODY]

Oh......... did'nt realize you just want somebody to do it for you while you watch.

 

[GX4SEVEND]

That's why I said assistance in the title. I need someone who knows how to do it so I can help assist them and learn. If I knew how to do everything and had the tools I wouldn't have made the thread.

 

[cj80cruiser]

Why is it unsafe to drive?

my .02

When I did the LBJs on mine I could not get the OTRE to separate from the LBJ with out destroying it. I ended up putting it all back together and ordered new OTRE s. (I actually damaged the castle nut so bad it was not re usable and had to use a 14 mm lug nut from the parts store to get by on since no one around here sells the castle nut only)

Then I was able to remove the OTREs and LBJ togther.

When removing the old OTRE be sure to accurately count the number of threads/rotations and put the new one in the same amount. This will get you close to where you were before you started, but you still will need a front end alignment. When I had my alignment done I asked the TECH to check the rear wheels as well since I have the adjustable panhard/track bar from SONORAN STEEL. It was right where it should be and in line with the front.

I would suggest only TOYOTA LBJs, and definitely get new LBJ BOLTS as well.( you will need 8), they come off with a 14mm wrench/ socket, and torque to 37 FT LBS, also its a good idea to use "blue removable loctite".

I did the left cv joint yesterday and it was not too bad but I definitely can't do it as fast as some claim. Yes 35mm socket for the axle nut and torque wrench is needed. ( the torque on the axle nut is 174 FT LBS)

You'll need at the MINIMUM a 14mm wrench, big hammer ( I like a 3LB ) 1/2 drive breaker bar, 35 mm Socket, side cutters, a large adjustable wrench, (18 ") channel locks, 19 mm socket, and the ratchet and extension a large chisel or brass bar, maybe one of those fork type ball joint separators, and maybe a few other tools.

YES IT SOUNDS LIKE A BIG JOB, BUT NOT TOO BAD IF YOU HAVE THE TOOLS AND RIGHT PARTS

I think the online fsm is wrong and the 14mm bolts should be around 58 ft/lbs

 

[NOT ME OR SOMEBODY]

I think the online fsm is wrong and the 14mm bolts should be around 58 ft/lbs

I agree, 37 seems low but, thats what is says. I just did the left side cv and I went beyond the 37 ft lbs on them.

 

[cj80cruiser]

I agree, 37 seems low but, thats what is says. I just did the left side cv and I went beyond the 37 ft lbs on them.

Yeah there's a thread or 2 on here describing a possible misprint and the opinion in a thread I read on ttora also said 37 was too low.

However I looked at the online fsm tonight on how to remove Cv joints and it stated 37 ft/lbs there as well for the four balljoint bolts. Now I'm confused as to what it actually should be. :redbrick:

 

[NOT ME OR SOMEBODY]

The thread of these bolts is either 8 or 10 mm so.... any torque chart you look at will show higher than 37 Ft Lbs.

I work in the skilled trades at TOYOTA in G town, ( not that that lends any credibility to what I say ) and have done maintenance tech work in many heavy and light industries. ( 20 -25 years worth )

For the most part in everyday activities, ( In my humble opinion ) its all about experience and a knowledge of what you are working with.

 

[GX4SEVEND]

Looks like I might be trying this myself. I don't have anyone local to help and Toyota wants a ridiculous amount for labor. I'm just afraid of getting half way done and not getting it back together