In the market for a 3rd gen, no locker = deal breaker?

Horsethief

New member
Hey guys, I'm currently on the hunt for a 3rd gen. I had it in my mind that the factory locker was a MUST HAVE, so I've been limiting my searches to 4R's equipped with them. Which really means my window is only '99 or '00, as I like the '99 updates of the 96-98.

So, that gives me a limited pool to choose from, and being in New England makes it even worse since most of them look like they were parked in a pond for years.

I'm looking at one this weekend, it's got some good mods such as f/r bumpers and lift/tires, lots of mew parts, and is supposedly solid, but no locker.

Is that the end of the world? I'm not going to be doing hardcore stuff or going to Moab every week, there's not that many trails where I live.

I just hate open differentials, I hate getting stuck in stupid situations because of them. I once got my old K10 stuck in the now on one side, with the drivers side wheels both on pavement, and thanks to open diffs I was going nowhere.

I'm mainly going to be using it as a camping rig, with some light offroading at the same time (hopefully). I REALLY enjoy wheeling in the snow, even if it's just unplowed dirt roads or parking lots, haha.

With that in mind, perhaps I'm better off with the open rear diff and adding a rear TrueTrac. I like the fact that it's ALWAYS working, in 2wd or 4, and high range and low. It occurs to me that it may be BETTER for the snow, as I'll be mostly in 4hi in the snow, where the factory locker wouldn't be able to be used anyway.


The only other major thing I can think of is the gearing; IIRC the locker versions come with 4.30's, what do the open models come with? Is it 4.10's? If I was going with 265/75's, or no larger than 285, would I notice a difference between the two?

Thanks!
 
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There are plenty of aftermarket options. ARB, Detroit, Eaton, retrofit a stock on etc. I wouldn't make that a criteria, would be nice for sure, but there are plenty of options.

The Atrac on my 02 does surprisingly well, but it does have its limitations.
 
There are plenty of aftermarket options. ARB, Detroit, Eaton, retrofit a stock on etc. I wouldn't make that a criteria, would be nice for sure, but there are plenty of options.

The Atrac on my 02 does surprisingly well, but it does have its limitations.

I was thinking about the stock retrofit, but I feel like it would take forever to find the parts locally. I think finding a locker equipped parts truck for a donor would be the best bet, so I'd have the matching front diff gears.

I'll have to watch some ATRAC videos, I wonder if a ATRAC/Truetrac combo would be better than locked rear/open front?

Seems like I can open my search to '01/02 as well now.
 
I would concentrate on finding the least rusty example you can. You can always add a locker, and rust sucks. That'd be my priority.
 
I just picked up my 3rd gen last weekend. I spent a good amount of time looking, and was originally looking for a 99-00 with locker, but in the end I wound up with a 2002 Sport Edition, so no locker. The locked trucks I found were all rusty and nothing I was willing to spend money on. I travelled to Houston (from Ohio) to get my rust free 4Runner, 1 owner and well taken care of. That was far more important to me than the lockers, which would be used in extremely rare situations for me.
 
You can just add a used e locker to your 02 4runner. you can either cut your 02 axle housing to fit the elocker or you can just buy a complete elocker and axle housing from a 96-00 4runner. Everything bolts up and its a cheap(ish) upgrade that is awesome on the trail.

a lot of 02's have 4.10 gear ratio so you will probably have the best luck finding a elocker with a 4.10 gear ratio from a 1st gen Tacoma.
 
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I would concentrate on finding the least rusty example you can. You can always add a locker, and rust sucks. That'd be my priority.


Yeah, thanks. The more I think about it, the more I think that's the way to go.

I looked at a locker '00 last weekend that was definitely not worth the money.
 
Hey guys, I'm currently on the hunt for a 3rd gen. I had it in my mind that the factory locker was a MUST HAVE, so I've been limiting my searches to 4R's equipped with them. Which really means my window is only '99 or '00, as I like the '99 updates of the 96-98.

So, that gives me a limited pool to choose from, and being in New England makes it even worse since most of them look like they were parked in a pond for years.

I'm looking at one this weekend, it's got some good mods such as f/r bumpers and lift/tires, lots of mew parts, and is supposedly solid, but no locker.

Is that the end of the world? I'm not going to be doing hardcore stuff or going to Moab every week, there's not that many trails where I live.

I just hate open differentials, I hate getting stuck in stupid situations because of them. I once got my old K10 stuck in the now on one side, with the drivers side wheels both on pavement, and thanks to open diffs I was going nowhere.

I'm mainly going to be using it as a camping rig, with some light offroading at the same time (hopefully). I REALLY enjoy wheeling in the snow, even if it's just unplowed dirt roads or parking lots, haha.

With that in mind, perhaps I'm better off with the open rear diff and adding a rear TrueTrac. I like the fact that it's ALWAYS working, in 2wd or 4, and high range and low. It occurs to me that it may be BETTER for the snow, as I'll be mostly in 4hi in the snow, where the factory locker wouldn't be able to be used anyway.


The only other major thing I can think of is the gearing; IIRC the locker versions come with 4.30's, what do the open models come with? Is it 4.10's? If I was going with 265/75's, or no larger than 285, would I notice a difference between the two?

Thanks!

I had to rebuild my rear diff so I had a TruTrac put in. Traction is fantastic, I held my own with a bunch of guys offroading and I had stock sized highway rated tires!

E-locker is nice if you are hard core offroading or like playing in the snow, but not a deal breaker by any means. It cost me about $1000 to rebuild my diff with the TruTrac installed.
 
I also have a trutrac in my 97. It does fantastic off road including through deep snow. You just have to be careful when driving on paved roads that have snow on them. You just need to be easy on the throttle while turning or you can spin out.

Other than that, the Trutrac is an awesome upgrade. It also makes zero noise unlike some of the lunch box lockers (aussie, spartan etc).

I used to have to put my 4R in 4WD in certain areas on our hunting land before I added the Eaton. Now that I have it installed, I rarely, if ever, need to put it in 4WD unless its deep snow or super muddy.

You would basically remove your 3rd member and take it to a gear shop and have them install the Trutrac. I believe the trutrac is $600 ish and the shop will probably charge $300-400, so plan on about a grand if you want to go that route. It's a good investment in my opinion.

P.S. It also never needs any servicing unlike other lockers/LS set ups. There are no clutches or anything, its a completely gear driven system.
 
ATRAC (technically just “TRAC” on the 3rd gens) makes these very capable on the trails. Unless you’re doing hardcore wheeling, I’d also include these models in your search.
 
I have a 99 Limited with the locker and I would buy it again without it. It is extremely capable with it not engaged and I never had to use it in all the big snow storms we had. My driveway is long and steep and they do not plow my road. Even if you needed some extra traction then just air down to 15 psi then air back up when you are good to go.

Stick some Goodyear Authority tires on it and you will have plenty of traction. It is the only tire I use on all my 4x4's.
 
Standard Oil or Synthetic? Like this same thread it has been discussed many many times on T4R.

My personal preference is for a lower mileage clean truck, independent of the locker. The factory locker (which I have) would be very low on my list of must haves.

First I would prioritize:
* Clean history and what maintenance was done
* Low miles
* Clean paint
* 4WD (locker or not)
* Rust ... did you look under the frame in hard detail?

Also check out: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/119362-factory-e-locker-vs-aftermarket.html

:bolt:
 
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Standard Oil or Synthetic? Like this same thread it has been discussed many many times on T4R.

My personal preference is for a lower mileage clean truck, independent of the locker. The factory locker (which I have) would be very low on my list of must haves.

First I would prioritize:
* Clean history and what maintenance was done
* Low miles
* Clean paint
* 4WD (locker or not)
* Rust ... did you look under the frame in hard detail?

Also check out: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/119362-factory-e-locker-vs-aftermarket.html

:bolt:

This is the guideline I followed when I bought mines. But paid more attention to inspecting the frame for rust, and rear lower control arm mounts.

This guide will help you make an ultimate decision on options: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/82033-3rd-gen-4runner-buyers-guide.html
 
I started to doubt myself when I was looking for a manual plus a locker. Many (most?) of the locker equipped 3rd gens are probably the Limited models, which do not have manual transmissions.

Then having an acceptable price/condition combination on top of that. It took about 4 months before I found one a couple of states away.
 
I got a 98 with open diff, manual transmission. I got a whole other locked rear end and swapped it in. It is 4.3 but the originals were 4.1 so I still need to swap the front. I actually prefer 98 over any other year. 99 would be good but I don't like the electronic odometer. I like the fully manual hvac controls on the 98. All the other 99+ features you can just swap in if you want.
 
Standard Oil or Synthetic? Like this same thread it has been discussed many many times on T4R.

My personal preference is for a lower mileage clean truck, independent of the locker. The factory locker (which I have) would be very low on my list of must haves.

First I would prioritize:
* Clean history and what maintenance was done
* Low miles
* Clean paint
* 4WD (locker or not)
* Rust ... did you look under the frame in hard detail?

Also check out: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/119362-factory-e-locker-vs-aftermarket.html

:bolt:

Thanks for the link. I actually tried searching before posting, but whenever I search anything all it does is bring up build threads, then I get distracted looking at those.

I think I'll be fine without a locker for a while, even if I'll miss the cool factor of having it stock. I'm going to focus on finding one that isn't a rusted POS, doesn't have 400k miles on it, and has had some maint done.

I'm thinking them more new parts and service the better, as these ARE 20-ish year old vehicles, and I don't want to be spending EVERY weekend wrenching.

I'll be dollars ahead by getting one recently serviced too, I imagine things like radiators, steering components, and timing belt services add up FAST, even if just the cost of parts.

So, I'll take the locker off the "must have" list.
 
Factory locker is overrated af if your driveway doesn't look like Moab or the Rubicon. Can't tell you how many times I've actually needed a locked diff without having to do the whole stop-neutral-jack off the 4wd lever until light appears on dash-press button-reverse procedure. For 99.999999% of driving conditions you'll find a Trutrac LSD more effective.
 
I got a 98 with open diff, manual transmission. I got a whole other locked rear end and swapped it in. It is 4.3 but the originals were 4.1 so I still need to swap the front. I actually prefer 98 over any other year. 99 would be good but I don't like the electronic odometer. I like the fully manual hvac controls on the 98. All the other 99+ features you can just swap in if you want.

99 & 00 base & sr5 models have manual hvac controls. Limiteds have Elec controls. Not sure if 01-02 SR5's have elec hvac controls or not.
99 & 00 are the same & are the best years. :first:

Factory locker is overrated af if your driveway doesn't look like Moab or the Rubicon. Can't tell you how many times I've actually needed a locked diff without having to do the whole stop-neutral-jack off the 4wd lever until light appears on dash-press button-reverse procedure. For 99.999999% of driving conditions you'll find a Trutrac LSD more effective.

Not overrated at all if you actually take it offroad and it helps with re-sale value. It's a major feature like a S/C or M/T. LSD's suck in the snow.
 
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Open diff so much more fun.

Lockers is cheating. Lol

But then the hard core guys frown on open diff because "we tear up the trails". Really I'm just making the trail more challenging. Haha.
 

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