Infamous Drippy Drip V8 Actuator

I noticed last night that my transfer case is starting to leak. What parts are needed to re seal everything correctly. Been looking on line and can not find much info on this. I will have a transmission shop do the work as the closest dealership is 3 hours away. If they have to pull the case to re seal it are there bearings that should be replaced as well while it is open? Also was looking on rockauto and they offer a timkin actuator for a little more than half of what I can get the Toyota actuator. Has anyone used an actuator that is not a Toyota part?


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To just fix the leak, you want:

x1 Actuator O-Ring [P/N 90301-56009]
x1 "Orange" FIPG (Orange is for drivetrain stuff) [P/N 00295-01281]

If you're gonna have a shop pull the transfer case out and reseal it, I would also get a gasket kit and have them replace the seals.

x1 Transfer Case Gasket Kit [P/N 04362-35070]

It's a bit of extra work (probably another hour or so of labor depending on the shop's rates once they have the case apart), but if it's higher mileage it wouldn't hurt to change the seals out if you're gonna have it apart already.

Hope that helps.
 
To just fix the leak, you want:

x1 Actuator O-Ring [P/N 90301-56009]
x1 "Orange" FIPG (Orange is for drivetrain stuff) [P/N 00295-01281]

If you're gonna have a shop pull the transfer case out and reseal it, I would also get a gasket kit and have them replace the seals.

x1 Transfer Case Gasket Kit [P/N 04362-35070]

It's a bit of extra work (probably another hour or so of labor depending on the shop's rates once they have the case apart), but if it's higher mileage it wouldn't hurt to change the seals out if you're gonna have it apart already.

Hope that helps.



Thanks!!!!!! That is what I need. Will start collecting parts.


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Hmm I could see bearing grease working to hold it in place. I just remember it was annoying because it wouldn't line up right sometimes and you'd have to pull the case apart again.

Depending on the mileage of the vehicle I will often recommend a little additional labor and a "rebuild kit" (consists of new seals and o-rings) when recommending the actuator repair. No one has ever bought it of course, but it's what I did on my vehicle when I pulled my case out to fix the leak.

Oh trust me. I have fought that bearing before. LOL. It's a 2 piece needle bearing, so keeping the 2 halves of them lined up, along with "spread open" in that housing to get the inner part of the shaft to slide in, is the trick. Grease is definitely the answer, at least in my book. In your picture, at the very tip of your arrow, that center circle thing is just a little metal oil deflector/washer. It shouldn't move at all either way. In short, if you ever half any type of bearing that won't stay in place during assembly, try some grease. Auto transmissions have a few of those "flat" type needle bearings, and those are notorious for making your life hell. Ha Ha!

As far as replacing all of the seals, you can never go wrong with new ones, unless you install them incorrectly, which does happen. For my truck, I think I am just going to go with the front output (which can suck to install since the cross member is in the way), the rear output, and the actuator seal and call it a day. I've never actually seen an input seal leak on one of these. I used to see a lot of them on the on Land Cruisers though. Pull the fill plug on the t-case, and if it starts pouring out, you know you have a problem. LOL. Which also means your trans is probably fairly low on fluid.

Anyway, this is a great topic and thank you for chatting. Let me know if you have any other questions, or if you see any other concerns.
 
Oh trust me. I have fought that bearing before. LOL. It's a 2 piece needle bearing, so keeping the 2 halves of them lined up, along with "spread open" in that housing to get the inner part of the shaft to slide in, is the trick. Grease is definitely the answer, at least in my book. In your picture, at the very tip of your arrow, that center circle thing is just a little metal oil deflector/washer. It shouldn't move at all either way. In short, if you ever half any type of bearing that won't stay in place during assembly, try some grease. Auto transmissions have a few of those "flat" type needle bearings, and those are notorious for making your life hell. Ha Ha!

As far as replacing all of the seals, you can never go wrong with new ones, unless you install them incorrectly, which does happen. For my truck, I think I am just going to go with the front output (which can suck to install since the cross member is in the way), the rear output, and the actuator seal and call it a day. I've never actually seen an input seal leak on one of these. I used to see a lot of them on the on Land Cruisers though. Pull the fill plug on the t-case, and if it starts pouring out, you know you have a problem. LOL. Which also means your trans is probably fairly low on fluid.

Anyway, this is a great topic and thank you for chatting. Let me know if you have any other questions, or if you see any other concerns.

Seen a few 2nd Gen Tundra input shaft seal leaking, oddly the transmission fluid one is fine, but the transfer case one was leaking gear oil. Go figure.
 
To just fix the leak, you want:
x1 Actuator O-Ring [P/N 90301-56009]
x1 "Orange" FIPG (Orange is for drivetrain stuff) [P/N 00295-01281]
x1 Transfer Case Gasket Kit [P/N 04362-35070]

Do you know if there's a Toyota dealer associated with this site that will give members a discount on parts? I just brought home my 4Runner and knew the actuator was leaking but I'll be damned if I knew the sucker was connected inside the transfer case with forks...

Edit:
http://parts.toyotaofdallas.com
Found it!
 
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