Inoperable sunroof in nearly fully closed position

amg_w211

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Need help: Inoperable sunroof in nearly fully closed position

2003 4Runner

Issue: Sunroof inoperable. Currently not fully closed (frontmost glass is closed, back driver’s glass looks 1/4” too low, but back passenger side is about 3/8” too low) and I get wind buffeting at freeway speeds. I can try closing opening/closing the sunroof with control switches but I just get a “click” and no movement. I tried holding down the Tilt button for 15 seconds, and still get a single “click" with no movement. Removed the sunroof motor and it operates fine using overhead switch. Appears the cables are either stuck or tracks got misaligned.

I do not really care for the sunroof to open/close and at this point would rather just have a fully closed and sealed sunroof (of course, if I get it operable even better). I’ve looked that the moonroof TSB but it all starts with an open sunroof—mine is stuck in the mostly closed position so I can’t seem to access what I need.

Any thoughts on how to get the glass flush again? Do I start with taking off the glass to access the sunroof internal mechanism? Or can I simply adjust the back glass so it gets flush with the roof panel (might be easiest way to do it--but if so, how much does the glass adjust on the sunroof frame)? Any ideas on where to start would be appreciated.

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I took off the 2 sets of left and right side interior plastic garnishes and removed the 4 T25 bolts and removed the sunroof. Looks like the driver side and passenger sliding rails are both off track (drivers side is more rearward than the passenger side--see photos; explains why the passenger side is lower than the drivers side based on the rail positions.)). I also can't seem to get the front glide block off that holds the front air deflector.

Of note, the grease is pretty dried up.

Can I manually move the rails so they can at least be in the closed position? Any other thoughts?
 

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Semi-fix (allows for a flush glass/roof interface)

So after reading the original TSB (on page 9; attached in original post), it appears that you SHOULD be able to manually side the guide rails. You would achieve this by: 1) removing the sunroof glass to get access to the bracket (which I've done), 2) the sunroof motor (theoretically with it removed, it allows the cables to move freely; which I've done), 3) using screwdriver placed in one of the guide holes of the bracket to the cable (either the left or right side; see picture, which is the passenger side) and manually slide it forward or backward to the rest position (which are demarcated by notches on the top rail).

My cable slide bracket would not budge one bit, even with multiple minor taps forward or backward with a rubber mallet and taps. This tells me that the cable grease is hardened and gunked up (as it seems like a lot of the sunroof mechanism grease is as well). Explains which the motor would just click.

I realized a full repair would appear to involve the taking down the whole headliner, taking apart and grease the whole cable subassembly. Seeing as I've used the moonroof in any of my cars about once a year (if that), I didn't feel like getting that involved.

In any event, I ended up using a 1/4" rubber foot (sort of what you use for minor furniture feet) to raise the back passenger side (under one of the arm brackets) so it would allow the glass to be more flush. I was able to get the front and back glass to be aligned and this should make for a quieter roof while at freeway speeds. I left the power cable to the sunroof disconnected as I don't want any accidental operation of it (not that it would matter since the cables are bound up).
 

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There's a TSB for the sunroof, take a look at this thread - stuck sunroof.

I found the kit online, here's the part#63207-35040

PM me if you find any good deals on the kit, I've found it for around $70 so far.
 
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Another sunroof link and other notes

For completeness sake, here's a good post on how to remove the sunroof (use the original TSB in linked in the original post 1 above and follow this):

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/216969-sunroof-grinding-after-stuck-open.html

Of note, my sunroof was stuck in the mostly closed position so I couldn't get the plastic guide rails off to remove the front wind deflector. If you can manually move the side metal slide rails (after removing the sunroof motor and sunroof glass first), you should be able to slide the moonroof to the proper rest position, assuming your cables are not seized inside the tubes. Each side slide is independent from the other.

In my case, it did not matter as the roof metal slide rails (and the cables inside the metal tubes) were fully seized with hardened grease (which they supposedly changed in production after 2004).

It appears in my case, to get a fully functional sunroof, I would need to get a new cable assembly, which is about $550. One owner took down his whole sunroof (which involved taking down the headliner) and cut the cable assembly metal tube to get access to the seized cables and relubed it (he had to fashion a new tube to cover the freed up cables). Nonetheless I'm just happy that I got it to currently seal up flush and doesn't buffet at highway speeds anymore.

If your sunroof still works, I would suggest you do the attached TSB and lube it often.

Of note, if you lose one of the metal clips for the Homelink/map light overhead console, here's the part number: 9046805125 (about $1 each)
 
Is it worth it?

I bought the Sunroof repair kit online, and now I'm wondering if I should just leave it alone. My sunroof is completely closed, no leaks.

If you bought the kit and did the repair, did you find it worked in the long run? If you could do it again, would you leave it alone instead?

I'm tempted to leave it alone, and return the kit. I can always use the $ elsewhere.
 
I bought the Sunroof repair kit online, and now I'm wondering if I should just leave it alone. My sunroof is completely closed, no leaks.

If you bought the kit and did the repair, did you find it worked in the long run? If you could do it again, would you leave it alone instead?

I'm tempted to leave it alone, and return the kit. I can always use the $ elsewhere.



I just pulled the map light panel today and unplugged the sunroof motor. I'm not dealing with it breaking in a 12 year old car. Especially when I've gone several years at a time not even thinking about opening the sun roof. For some reason in an SUV I just don't see the appeal. Also since it's hidden by the roof rack I've left it open in the rain before. I know it will be some other driver that will mess with the sunroof and break it so I just pulled the plug today.


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Mine got stuck partially open once...I held down the tilt button and pushed it past where it was stuck. It's worked great since then (probably 4 months ago). I did clean out the sides of the rails after that, though, as they had a bit of mud in them......
 
Busted the "guide block" clip, does anyone know of a part number or do I replace the entire wind deflector assembly?

I called my local dealer, they couldn't find it and I tried the online parts sites and it's not listed.

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One owner took down his whole sunroof (which involved taking down the headliner) and cut the cable assembly metal tube to get access to the seized cables and relubed it (he had to fashion a new tube to cover the freed up cables).

Do you happen to have a link to this? It would be a good read.
 
Do you happen to have a link to this? It would be a good read.

That was me. Unfortunately looks like I never did a writeup on it. Long story short - I picked up some "soft" copper tubing from Home Depot, bent it to match the path of the OEM tube, flared the end out to make the lip that holds it in place, fed the cable back through. Worked like a charm and I've now got a solid way to replace them whenever they inevitably seize up again. Happy to answer any questions. I might be able to dig up a couple photos from my computer if you need them. I've got my whole damn build's worth in photos and haven't bothered to post it up here.
 
That was me. Unfortunately looks like I never did a writeup on it. Long story short - I picked up some "soft" copper tubing from Home Depot, bent it to match the path of the OEM tube, flared the end out to make the lip that holds it in place, fed the cable back through. Worked like a charm and I've now got a solid way to replace them whenever they inevitably seize up again. Happy to answer any questions. I might be able to dig up a couple photos from my computer if you need them. I've got my whole damn build's worth in photos and haven't bothered to post it up here.

So were the cables actually rusted, or was it simply hardened grease?

If you felt like posting the photos, it would be really cool to see. That said, I don't plan on tackling this project any time soon, if ever. Headliners scare me.
 
So were the cables actually rusted, or was it simply hardened grease?

If you felt like posting the photos, it would be really cool to see. That said, I don't plan on tackling this project any time soon, if ever. Headliners scare me.

The splines were rusted in place. I use my sunroof fairly often - it went from working fine one day to the next day just deciding it was done. I took a dremel with the little grinding bit and cut through the tube very carefully to make sure I didn't hit the spline. Then just took some pliers and pried the old tube open.
 
Hey guys. I guess I'm too stubborn to call it quits on this issue. For me, the cables do not appear to be rusted as I can move the cable slide brackets with ease and there is no gear stripping through most of the sunroof movement.

The wind deflector guide blocks themselves are also not sticking. My particular issue seems to be that my passenger side wind deflector guide block rail does not want to retract beyond the half-way (high speed) position. This causes the passenger side of the sunroof glass to stop at this position while the drivers side continues back about a half inch and creates the gear stripping noise we are all accustomed to as only one cable is able to move beyond this point. So it appears that my issue is related to the movement of the rail itself, rather than the sticky block indicated in the TSB.

I thought I'd add this to the discussion as it seems different from every other sunroof diagnosis I have come across thus far. Unfortunately, I don't think I can further diagnose this issue without access or knowledge to how the wind deflector rails are attached to the cables.
 
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Both my 97's the sunroof opens all the way. Closing it they both stop around halfway. Hitting the closed button again and they finish closing. Is this normal? The 96 the sunroof never worked so I have nothing to compare it too.....


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Both my 97's the sunroof opens all the way. Closing it they both stop around halfway. Hitting the closed button again and they finish closing. Is this normal? The 96 the sunroof never worked so I have nothing to compare it too.....


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My 98 camry does the same thing so I guess that's just what Toyota did in the late 90's.
 
Busted the "guide block" clip, does anyone know of a part number or do I replace the entire wind deflector assembly?

I called my local dealer, they couldn't find it and I tried the online parts sites and it's not listed.

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Any luck with this part? Perusing various part fiches yield nothing, and it would seem absurd to have to purchase the whole cable assembly to get at a little clip (I busted the driver side one, labeled L1)
 
The dealer figured I had to replace the entire assembly, which was over $100.

My sunroof has not been open since. However, the sunroof does rattle once in a while going down the highway, so I need a solution to get it stay in place.
 

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