Installed Bilsteins 5100 last night... front strut question

[Patrickg]

After lots of reading on the forum, I decided to go with the 5100s for a good all around ride and front end height adjustment.
The front and rear had been replaced with Monroe all the way around sometime ago by the previous owner. They were soft and scary on rougher roads.
So yesterday I went on to start replacing them all.
I got the rear shocks on with no issues.
Front struts from the Monroe have a huge long threaded rod and use a rubber bushing under the mount and on top of the mount.

I went to install the Bilsteins the same way and there is no way I can get the nut started. There is not enough threaded rod showing.

Mine had a 1" metal sleeve inside the top strut mount> I have never seen it done like this. Looks like its there to keep you from smashing the bushing down too much.
Please take a look at the pictures and tell me what I am supposed to be using.

Do I just put the large metal washer at the bottom and then use 1 bushing and washer on top. This is what it looks like but the Toytec site shows 2 sets of bushing??

Thank you for your time,
Patrick
Pictures are Toyota OEM part, Monroe, KYB strut mount, then Toytec at bottom.

 

[AARONR]

Nut
washer
bushing
top hat
bushing
washer

 

[Patrickg]

Nut
washer
bushing
top hat
bushing
washer

Thank you for the help. But with all the members changing over to Bilstein. I am the only one that has run into this issue. The Toyota part diagram shows no lower bushing below the "hat" and I don't have the room for both bushings.

 

[Gdmeadors]

A bushing is under the top hat and does not come out. It is part of part 6 in the diagram and not listed separately. So you do not need to add another bushing. It is already under there.

 

[Gdmeadors]

You can feel the rubber bushing under the top hat if you want to check. Should be there. Do use the lower washer though.

 

[Patrickg]

A bushing is under the top hat and does not come out. It is part of part 6 in the diagram and not listed separately. So you do not need to add another bushing. It is already under there.

You can feel the rubber bushing under the top hat if you want to check. Should be there. Do use the lower washer though.

Thank you! I will check it out today.

 

[Gdmeadors]

I should say that the bushing under the top hat in my truck did not come out. They are almost glued in but likely will come out if you want to replace it with a new one. You will have to pry it out though.

 

[fullboogie]

I had the same problem when I installed my 5100's a few months ago. The bushings are so fat that I could not grab any threads, so I re-used the old top bushing (it was a little flatter). Not really concerned about it.

 

[zopperman]

Are you compressing the spring enough?

 

[TiN]

Are you compressing the spring enough?

I second this ^^^. Had this problem two weeks ago, but it was easily remedied by compressing the spring more.

 

[zopperman]

I second this ^^^. Had this problem two weeks ago, but it was easily remedied by compressing the spring more.

every time i wind up doing an install with a spring compressor I have to crank them down to the point where I feel like it's wicked dangerous. If you aren't a little scared, the springs aren't compressed enough

 

[Patrickg]

Are you compressing the spring enough?

I second this ^^^. Had this problem two weeks ago, but it was easily remedied by compressing the spring more.

every time i wind up doing an install with a spring compressor I have to crank them down to the point where I feel like it's wicked dangerous. If you aren't a little scared, the springs aren't compressed enough

Serious want to thank you guys for not only explaining it and taking time to reply back.

I sure had to compress the spring alot more then I thought was necessary. I worked out perfect now. I was looking and found out that I also installed the spring "opening" facing the wrong directions. Paint spots facing inward and coil facing outside. I feel alot more comfortable now.
Again many thanks!

 

[zopperman]

Serious want to thank you guys for not only explaining it and taking time to reply back.

I sure had to compress the spring alot more then I thought was necessary. I worked out perfect now. I was looking and found out that I also installed the spring "opening" facing the wrong directions. Paint spots facing inward and coil facing outside. I feel alot more comfortable now.
Again many thanks!

No problem, glad you got it squared away.

 

[Patrickg]

In the front strut picture you will notice that the paint spots are facing the wrong way. This was my first attempt of installing them the other day when I ran into the bushing issues discussed above.

I was able to get some miles on the new suspension and can't believe what a HUGE difference the new Bilsteins made. Like most have stated, smooth and firm but not to "truck" like. Less body roll and alot more confidence on rough back roads.

This is the 5100 series adjustable front "struts" at 1.75" lift and stock height in the rear. It has 2014 17" wheels, 265-70-17 tires, Mastercraft Courser AXT.

There is about 1" difference from front to rear, rear sits at 36.5" ground to wheel well, front is right at 35.5 on right side. I have a slight "lean" on the left, so it sits about 35.25".

 

[Dylan]

So I ordered my 5100s from Down South Motorsports. However, they did not come with the new bushing or washers. I already have an extra set of the top hats from a friend, but am I going to have to reuse the old washer and bushing from my stock struts?

Edit: I just called DSMS and the confirmed the shocks do not come with the bushing or washer, and that you can reuse the old ones if they are still good. I would rather just get new ones for peace of mind but also so I dont have to mess with the top hat removal on the old ones.

Anyone know where I can get new bushing/washers for the 5100s? DSMS doesnt carry them.