Installed HID's and now head lights wont turn on?

T

T4R2003

New member
I got these as a gift and they are made by O-NEX. The kit came with 2 HID bulbs, 2 ballast, 2 wiring harness, mounting hardware and nothing else. It says to simply plug everything in which I did and now the lights dont turn on? I noticed it said

"You may need to upgrade your fuse if the lights do not light up after installation. If both lights share the same fuse, please upgrade the fuse to a 25A~25A fuse. If both lights use serparate fuses, please upgrade them to a 10A~15A fuse."

Has anyone heard of having to upgrade fuses?

Thanks
 
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Nope.. used a separate wiring harness which connects the power straight to the battery. That's switched on by a relay which is the original headlight connector.
 
Have you tried putting back the Halogen bulbs back? Put the bulbs back in the headlight housing and then try turning it on. (Should the bulb burst when you turn them on, the headlight housing will protect you from flying glass shards.)

Most standard OEM HID ballasts runs at 35w once the HID burners are ignited and running (lit). The initial draw by the ignitor and ballast is much higher than the 55w that's supplied by the OEM harness for a Halogen setup, thus most Halogen to HID conversions people use a wiring harness. The ballasts and ignitors draw power directly from the battery. The OEM headlight wiring activates a relay that sends power to the ballast and ignitor.

I would recommend against upgrading the fuses to a higher amperage. The fuse(s) at whatever amperage they maybe were designed by Toyota to protect the electrical system and wiring. By changing to a higher amperage fuse, more current (amps) is allowed through, however, the wiring gauge (thickness) may not be sufficient and heating the wiring. It would result in melted wiring insulation causing a short.

It is the same principle as people who use a larger fuse or swap out to a larger circuit breaker at their houses because they are overloading their outlet with their appliances.

I would strongly suggest looking into a wiring harness for your HID system.
 
Uneek said:
Have you tried putting back the Halogen bulbs back? Put the bulbs back in the headlight housing and then try turning it on. (Should the bulb burst when you turn them on, the headlight housing will protect you from flying glass shards.)

Most standard OEM HID ballasts runs at 35w once the HID burners are ignited and running (lit). The initial draw by the ignitor and ballast is much higher than the 55w that's supplied by the OEM harness for a Halogen setup, thus most Halogen to HID conversions people use a wiring harness. The ballasts and ignitors draw power directly from the battery. The OEM headlight wiring activates a relay that sends power to the ballast and ignitor.

I would recommend against upgrading the fuses to a higher amperage. The fuse(s) at whatever amperage they maybe were designed by Toyota to protect the electrical system and wiring. By changing to a higher amperage fuse, more current (amps) is allowed through, however, the wiring gauge (thickness) may not be sufficient and heating the wiring. It would result in melted wiring insulation causing a short.

It is the same principle as people who use a larger fuse or swap out to a larger circuit breaker at their houses because they are overloading their outlet with their appliances.

I would strongly suggest looking into a wiring harness for your HID system.
Click to expand...

Agree, I wouldnt change fuses like that.
 
DO NOT go messing with your current fuse amp ratings in the factory panel. If you find that you have to and it better that you should, upgrade using a headlight wiring harness.

If your HID lights aren't turning on and you've switched back to the halogen bulb without having any issues, then the polarity of the wires going into the ballasts are more than likely switched.
 
Thanks a lot guys for the quick replies! I removed the HID kit this morning and my stock bulbs turn on without a problem. The kit my wife got me didn't come with a power wire with a fuse or a ground wire. I will take a picture of the kit later tonight. I really don't know what to do about the wiring since it didn't come with wiring? I don't want to change the fuses like you guys said, not worth messing anything up
 
You should have two connectors on the ballast. One that's an output for the HID bulb, and the other the input for the connectors for the factory bulb harness (basically +/- wires). Take a picture of what you have spread out and maybe we can take it from there.

I believe that you might have had the polarity switched on the power input for the ballast. I had this happen once.
 
what you need is something like this

001.jpg~original


the main power will be connected to your battery, then what i did was ran 2 grounds (1 to a power steering screw and one to a ground such as the frame or body.

Then I ran a control wire that would turn on the whole system by plugging one wire into the headlight plug this will make the HID's run safely and not do any damage to your car... sorry if i made this really confusing but i will try and take some detailed pics
 
Your problem has an Easy Fix. Unplug from original connector side (toyotas non-hid socket) and flip connector backwards. As mentioned here before, You've reverse polarity. Happened to me, but took 2 seconds to fix.
 
Alright here are the pictures of the HID kit I have. Before I try adding a wiring harness some how I will try turning the stock head light connector backwards. Let me know what you guys think, thanks for the help! :cheers:









 
T4R2003 said:


Click to expand...

the black plastic housing next to the bulb..did you put these two wires in or did it come together? like others have mentioned i bet these are switched.

also when you are testing it do you have both bulbs completly hooked up? mine will only work if both are plugged in for some reason??

im sure its the polarity try switching the black housing [this is the part that plugs into the factory housing] around. its got a knub on it so it will only fit into the factory housing one way so you will need to pull the wires out of the plastic housing and switch them
 
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