Installed my Toytec 3" Bilstein Lift with 285 Nitto Terra Grapplers

[68GTconvert]

Toytec 3" Bilstein Lift with 285 Nitto Terra Grapplers. I have had my lift on for awhile but I just got my tires put on. I got the heavy duty spring from Toytec in the rear which I don't recommend. I got them bc I haul my dirt bike on a moto hitch hauler. The 285's rub on the UCA's but I ordered a set of 1.25" spacers all around. I will also move the fender liners forward but otherwise everything fits fine. I think it looks good and will be great for camping, wheeling and around town.

 

[Jabberjaw]

Nice...

 

[68GTconvert]

Can anyone tell me how to move the front fender liners forward? Do you just unscrew them and make a new mounting hole?

 

[yotamandan]

Looks good. I like the stance

 

[4gin007]

Can anyone tell me how to move the front fender liners forward? Do you just unscrew them and make a new mounting hole?

just loosen the 10mm screws (I think there's 3 of them) and push the liner forward, you may have to hold it forward as you tighten the 10s up. The liner has slight movement forwards and backwards naturally.

 

[Doozi]

Looks good! You'll have to lose the front mud flaps and probably do some more trimming after you add the wheel spacers. Moving the liners forward is pretty easy… I popped new holes further back in the liner (closer to the wheel) so that I had to push them further forward to refasten the screws.

I'm assuming that you don't recommend the SuperFlex HD rear coils because you are usually at stock weight, right? I have the regular SuperFlex coils now, but with a CBI rear bumper and tire carrier I need the heavier coils. After talking with Toytec, it seems like they'd be great for my situation. Let me know your thoughts.

 

[68GTconvert]

Looks good! You'll have to lose the front mud flaps and probably do some more trimming after you add the wheel spacers. Moving the liners forward is pretty easy… I popped new holes further back in the liner (closer to the wheel) so that I had to push them further forward to refasten the screws.

I'm assuming that you don't recommend the SuperFlex HD rear coils because you are usually at stock weight, right? I have the regular SuperFlex coils now, but with a CBI rear bumper and tire carrier I need the heavier coils. After talking with Toytec, it seems like they'd be great for my situation. Let me know your thoughts.

Yes they are too stiff. Although they do seem to be breaking in and getting more forgiving. I am at stock weight 90% of the time. I will let you know when I haul my dirt bike, I am sure it will be sweet then.

 

[ktom3001]

Toytec 3" Bilstein Lift with 285 Nitto Terra Grapplers. I have had my lift on for awhile but I just got my tires put on. I got the heavy duty spring from Toytec in the rear which I don't recommend. I got them bc I haul my dirt bike on a moto hitch hauler. The 285's rub on the UCA's but I ordered a set of 1.25" spacers all around. I will also move the fender liners forward but otherwise everything fits fine. I think it looks good and will be great for camping, wheeling and around town.

I installed Firestone airbags to handle the weight of the Moto on the back. Works great with 20 psi in them, stock ride is back when you want it.

 

[68GTconvert]

So I went to put on my wheel spacers and I don't have enough threads on wheel studs for the lug nuts to feel safe. I am not sure what to do here. I think the new drilled and slotted rotors I put on from Summit Racing are taking up too much of my lug nuts to be able to use these. I am at a loss here any suggestions?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwr-k137

 

[68GTconvert]

Either get longer wheel studs or some aftermarket UCS's? What about the ET lug nuts? Frustrated...

 

[ARunner]

No good input for you on the wheel spacers, as I've never run them. But i agree, you either need a different design of spacer or longer studs. Alternatively, yes, aftermarket UCA's would address your rubbing issues I think. I'm using FJ steelies with the same size tires and no spacers with aftermarket UCAs.

 

[68GTconvert]

No good input for you on the wheel spacers, as I've never run them. But i agree, you either need a different design of spacer or longer studs. Alternatively, yes, aftermarket UCA's would address your rubbing issues I think. I'm using FJ steelies with the same size tires and no spacers with aftermarket UCAs.

Well I am thinking of going the route you went with the aftermarket UCA's. OR longer studs. I just got it aligned too so I am trying to figure out the best route.
Thanks

 

[ARunner]

If you can get your money back on the spacers, you'd probably be at least 1/2 way to the cost of the UCAs. The other advantage to the UCA is avoiding the cut of the body mount, if that is something you want to avoid. I did. You'll be out the cost of another alignment to do so, however.

Couple extra points worth mentioning. I have an aftermarket bumper, so adjusting my caster to the maximum to push the wheels forward was something that I had done to avoid the body mount chop on mind. I wasn't actually rubbing the body mount, but was hitting the plastic in front of it before I did the alignment. This could cause you a good bit more rubbing and or cutting on the factory front bumper, however. Also, just to be clear, when I said it should alleviate your rubbing issue, I was specifically referring to the rubbing on the UCA only.

 

[68GTconvert]

Thanks Arunner. I am trying to get a refund on the spacers. I may pull the trigger on some UCA's. I was also thinking about the 1/4" aluminum spacer just to push the tire out from the UCA. I have enough meat on the wheel studs.

 

[ARunner]

Sounds good. I remember it was a brain damaging experience to try and figure out the difference in backspacing / offset of the FJ steel wheels vs. my stock 4th gens. But if memory serves me right (and it may not), I think the FJs sit about 1/2 inch further out than the stock 4th gen wheels I had. So picking up some spacers might not be a bad idea...but hopefully some others running stock wheels can give you some good guidance.

 

[68GTconvert]

Couple extra points worth mentioning. I have an aftermarket bumper, so adjusting my caster to the maximum to push the wheels forward was something that I had done to avoid the body mount chop on mind. I wasn't actually rubbing the body mount, but was hitting the plastic in front of it before I did the alignment. This could cause you a good bit more rubbing and or cutting on the factory front bumper, however. Also, just to be clear, when I said it should alleviate your rubbing issue, I was specifically referring to the rubbing on the UCA only.

UCA's is really the only spot where I am rubbing when I am at full clock.

 

[68GTconvert]

Sounds good. I remember it was a brain damaging experience to try and figure out the difference in backspacing / offset of the FJ steel wheels vs. my stock 4th gens. But if memory serves me right (and it may not), I think the FJs sit about 1/2 inch further out than the stock 4th gen wheels I had. So picking up some spacers might not be a bad idea...but hopefully some others running stock wheels can give you some good guidance.

They are only 11 bucks shipped so I probably will try them out. It may work? Thanks for the help!

 

[68GTconvert]

I bought some 8mm hub centric spacers about 1/3". I am going to try them. I am hoping to will push my wheels out sufficiently away from the UCA's. If not I will go with the aftermarket UCA's or longer wheel studs and spacers?

 

[Stellar]

I just did the Toytec 3" Bilstein lift on my truck also. Initial measurement showed exactly 3" of lift at every corner and maintained the 2" rake from front to back. Haven't remeasured after settling (weather). I'm hoping to run a 275/65R18 in the near future. Hopefully I don't have to go with spacers. Good luck!

 

[Bama_Runner]

I wouldn't run those spacers. You need to get some that are hubcentric like the Spidertrax or Bora. Hubcentric will help eliminate vibrations and the hub ring int the center helps take the weight load off of the lugs.