Installing Daystar 2.5/1.5 spacer lift

[Breaze]

Hi all, Planning to do some work on my son's 2008 4wd SR5 4runner before he goes back to school next week. It is currently stock. The plan is to install the Daystar (KT09115BK) 2.5/1.5 kit over the weekend(getting it tomorrow (Friday), have new tires (BFG AT 265/70/'R17) put on Monday morning, and have it aligned Monday afternoon. We are trying to make sure we have done all our research ahead of time to make sure it all gets done. I know this topic has been beat to death but I'm hoping to get some feeback on our approach and make sure we aren't missing something:

1) The instructions for the front spacers which come with the kit call for removing brake and ABS lines from the upper A arm and breaking apart the upper ball joint - we are ok with that approach but I also saw this post by Galactic 04 where he inserts a spacer by lowering the lower A arm and leaving the upper arm and ball joint alone:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/77183-leveled-her-weekend.html

Since we don't have XREAS, can we use this simpler method?

2) From what we've read, this lift will allow for the BFG AT 265/70/R17's to fit without rubbing (no wheel spacer). Is that correct?

3) We are not doing a differential drop based on what we've read - is that something we should have put in our plan?

 

[Joex481]

Hi all, Planning to do some work on my son's 2008 4wd SR5 4runner before he goes back to school next week. It is currently stock. The plan is to install the Daystar (KT09115BK) 2.5/1.5 kit over the weekend(getting it tomorrow (Friday), have new tires (BFG AT 265/70/'R17) put on Monday morning, and have it aligned Monday afternoon. We are trying to make sure we have done all our research ahead of time to make sure it all gets done. I know this topic has been beat to death but I'm hoping to get some feeback on our approach and make sure we aren't missing something:

1) The instructions for the front spacers which come with the kit call for removing brake and ABS lines from the upper A arm and breaking apart the upper ball joint - we are ok with that approach but I also saw this post by Galactic 04 where he inserts a spacer by lowering the lower A arm and leaving the upper arm and ball joint alone:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/77183-leveled-her-weekend.html

Since we don't have XREAS, can we use this simpler method?

2) From what we've read, this lift will allow for the BFG AT 265/70/R17's to fit without rubbing (no wheel spacer). Is that correct?

3) We are not doing a differential drop based on what we've read - is that something we should have put in our plan?

1) You can. I did with XREAS, was tricky but did the job. I also had to separate the ball joint on the other side because I couldn't get the LCA bolts loose with hand tools. The LCA method is much easier if you can get the bolts out.

2) I have Firestone 265/70/R17s on mine with 1.25" spacers. I removed the mudflaps to do this, but without spacers you might be okay. I also trimmed the front fender liners, again without spacers you're probably fine. Both are pretty easy to do if there is rubbing. Make sure you go in both directions when checking, sometimes it rubs in reverse but not forwards.

3) Can't answer this, sorry, I have a 2WD. I think this difference doesn't affect the other answers. My guess is that you don't need to.

Extra note: are you aware of this method for the rear? Very quick and easy: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/149572-daystar-rear-1-5-lift-instructions-pictures.html

 

[Bigrupp]

^^What he said, and for #3--> Don't worry about the diff drop.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[Whytey]

I avoided the ball joint method and did the lower control arm removal. It was pretty straight forward and worked well (i had to deal with a swing arm bushing control nut breaking loose which probably added 6 hours to my ordeal but as long as you don’t have that issue shouldn’t be too bad)
I will try and find the instructions that I used

 

[Whytey]

Couldn’t find the directions but essentially this video covers the necessary steps:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-tDYnzKtE2c

This has more steps as it is for a complete suspension overhaul but the steps are essentially there.
Main difference is not removing the lower shock mount. Just loosen it.
Then you can remove the upper 3 shock mounts and lower the lower control arm down. Should give you enough clearance to attach the spacer on top then raise it back into position.
Then tighten everything back up.

I do remember some direction to watching the brake line /xreas line while lowering the control arm (some removed the attachment points for this step, I did not and had no problems.)

The rear is pretty straight forward. I used the small Toyota jack on the bump stop the extend the axle down on the side I was working on. Seemed super sketchy at the moment as it’s not the most solid of perches, but went slowly and had no issues. Again be mindful of any brake lines.

Hope some of this helps but enough google searches should help you find a simple one.

My reasoning for going with the lca method over the ball joint was it seemed easier and you’re probably going to do an alignment anyways so going this route doesn’t mess up your end alignment anyways.

 

[MightyP]

1. Dropping the LCA is the way to go. Just take it slow and watch the brake line.
2. I had to push the front fender liner forward to fit 265/70s, but had spacers. Regardless, it's not hard.
3. No need for the diff drop.


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Breaze]

Much obliged to everyone - just what we wanted to hear and some extra tips.

 

[Breaze]

Does anyone have the torque specs related to this lift or is there a manual somewhere that I can get them from? - or are most of you just tightening to feel?

What I have so far:
Upper strut mounting plate nut: 18 ft lbs
Lower strut bolt: 100 ft. lbs
Upper strut 3 mounting nuts: 35 ft lbs
The upper ball joint single nut is 80 ft lbs - maybe this could be used for both bottom ball joint nuts?

Also, should I use loctite?

 

[RonJR]

Don't remove the castellated nut for the lower ball joint. Getting the lower ball joint out is just as hard as removing the upper one. Instead, remove the two bolts on either side of the nut. They require 120 ft-lbs of torque, and use loctite red from the factory (you'll see it on the threads when you pull the bolts out). I'd put the same on to reinstall.

I don't believe any of the other bolts call for loctite.

I've attached a few manual pages you might find useful.

 

[Breaze]

Don't remove the castellated nut for the lower ball joint. Getting the lower ball joint out is just as hard as removing the upper one. Instead, remove the two bolts on either side of the nut. They require 120 ft-lbs of torque, and use loctite red from the factory (you'll see it on the threads when you pull the bolts out). I'd put the same on to reinstall.

I don't believe any of the other bolts call for loctite.

I've attached a few manual pages you might find useful.

Thanks - great info - helps alot:
Upper strut mounting plate nut: 18 ft lbs
Lower strut bolt: 100 ft. lbs
Upper strut 3 mounting nuts: 35 ft lbs
Lower ball joint 2 support nuts: 120 ft lbs and use loctite

Got the kit today and will get started in the am.