Installing Shocks

Jakecapt

New member
I own a 1998 4runner limited and I need to change out the shocks. Been checking around and cost is out of control for installing them.
First question, How hard is it to replace and install shocks in the front end of my 4runner?
Second question, Any suggestions on the brand of shocks for it? Been told that I should put KYB's on it.
Any help would be greatly appreciated... Thanks
 
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installing shocks in the front is much harder then the rear. If you have a compressor, air gun, and a shock compressor you should be fine. I tried gettin the bolts off without an air gun and it was nearly impossible. maybe with a huge breaker bar you could get it. gotta compress the springs to get the shock out. thats why its $$$ to have them installed.


as far as type... i put KYB Monomax's on mine.. and they are great. Definetely more bumpy then OEM, but great for offroad control and handling. I know bilsteins are great too... just as stiff though. Monroe are supposed to be more like OEM. i wouldnt recommend OEM... but hope this helped
 
Replacement of the front shocks is a real bear if you try it by yourself (as I did several months ago). Requires spring compression tool once you've gotten it off the 'runner. Easy enough to get at, and front end does not require realignment afterwards. I would say it is not for those without some mechanical experience and patience. Also, if you are looking at doing all 4, the rear are even more challenging than the front.

After a lot of research and reading, I put on Bilsteins all the way around and am very happy with the results. Definitely worth the extra money.......good luck!
 
I put Bilsteins on my 4Runner last year. I considered doing it myself, but it didn't seem worth it for the $60 I paid.

The KYB Monomax are real good too, I was considering them too.

It's such a difference over the OEMs both on and off road that I wish I had done it years ago.

Good shocks are well worth the extra $$.
 
ive had several mechanics tell me you DO need an allignment after replacing shocks on the 4r or other IFS coil-over cars. i donno...
 
The cheapest price that I have found here is $500 and then upward for the shocks and installed. That price was for KYB and monroes. No one in that price has said anything about front alignment.
 
druuu88 said:
ive had several mechanics tell me you DO need an allignment after replacing shocks on the 4r or other IFS coil-over cars. i donno...

Hmmm... I think your mechanics are not right. I will be changing the shocks this weekend on my '99 4Runner, and I don't see how the alignment would be thrown off at all. None of the alignment adjustment fasteners would touched from what it looks like. To me, it looks like a pretty straight forward job, but I've done a few shocks on other cars before. Having never done this before, it could be a little more challenging.
 
yeah... i wasnt sure why they all told me i needed an alignment.. maybe just trying to cheat me out of money. i think i needed one at the time anyways. i donno tho
 
druuu88 said:
did some research on some websites about the issue. They mostly say if you have struts in the front (like 4runner) that the entire strut tower is usually removed from the steering knuckle... which means you need an alignment afterwards.


http://groups.google.com/group/alt....3aa5d0de1f4/c1cfdeceff45d3ba#c1cfdeceff45d3ba

Theres a website with many different opinions. with my knowledge of cars, it is necessary for an alignment afterwards.

That may be true on some cars, but I really can't see how this would make a difference on the 4Runner; at least on my 3rd gen ('99). The caster/camber bolts aren't altered, nor the adjustment on the tie rod ends to effect toe. If I find otherwise after this weekend, I'll post back to clear up any misinformation but I really doubt the fasteners holding the alignment adjustments are touched at all.

On the other hand, if the ride height were being changed as a result of a shock change (i.e. if the new strut/shock was different than the old strut/shock being replaced in that the spring mounting perch is at a different location up or down, effectively raising or lowering the ride height), then yes, the alignment would be effected. In the case of swapping out shocks for new ones with the same geometry (same distance of the shock perch relative to the bottom mounting bolt hole of the shock), then there shouldn't be any alteration to the alignment.

All of that being said......... having a good alignment is definitely an important thing for tire longevity and to get optimal handling, so I'm all for having it checked periodically, perhaps more frequently depending on the type of driving you do (I'm guessing heavy off-roading would increase the chances of throwing it off; highway only w/o a lot of potholes and it would probably stay ok for a long time).
 
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You don't need an alignment for new shocks, though it wouldn't hurt anything. Swapping out the shocks is not that difficult if you are somewhat mechanically inclined. The fronts need to be compressed using a spring compressor, you can rent manual ones and then put the whole assembly in a vice and using an air gun compress them and then reassemble. You could do it w/o air but it might take a while. You could also remove the front assembly and then take it to a shop to compress and reassemble, not having to remove from the truck and reinstall might save you some money. The rears can be a pain because you can't see the top bolt that you need to hold to loosen them, but once you get the wrench on it just keep it there, some people have trouble removing the rears and they end up just cutting them off. For my 4Runner about 4 years ago I was quoted 1 hour labor for each front and .5 hour each rear, all for a job that would take about 40 minutes w/ a lift, air tools, wall mounted spring copmpressor and experience.

And I recomend Billsteins, they are a bit stiffer but make the truck feel more stable in corners and over larger highway bumps.
 
You don't need to pay someone to do this. It's not as hard as people make it seem. I am not mechanically inclined, by any means, but I attempted to do this on my 98 Limited last year. With limited amount of tools, I did it in 5-6 hours. Now, let me just say, that the first one took 4-5 hours and the next took 1 hour. Now, I could do both in an hour. It was just hard trying to figure things out as I went along.

Make sure to spray down the shock bolts with PB Blaster for a couple of nights. HUGE difference. Then, rent a spring compressor from Checkers or Autozone for free. Rest is pretty straight forward and relatively easy once you know what you're doing.
 
I completed the shock install over the weekend. Removing the front strut/spring assemblies is a breeze, and no... alignment settings are uneffected. I have some fairly cheap spring compressors that I've used on my miata (smaller springs) but I didn't trust them with the additional stress required to compress the strut springs so I went to Advance Autoparts to borrow their compressors. The ones they had were not much better. They started to bow when I compressed them and quickly got that "oh Lord!" feeling. I ended up just stopping by a tire/brakes/alignment shop and they compressed both front the springs, swapped the struts and reinstalled the springs for about $20 total. It was worth the piece of mind but if I were to do this job more often, I would either buy my own "good" compressors, or check with another shop for better loaners like Autozone, Pep Boys, Oreilly's, etc... Overall, the fronts really are straight forward.

On the the rear shocks. Very basic steps and in fact, I didn't even have to jack up the 4Runner. HOWEVER... the top nut that secures the top of the shock to the body is a little hard to get to and VERY hard to turn. I did spray them with PB Blaster but it only soaked for maybe 20-30 minutes. If you get a deep well 14mm socket on there with a wrench jammed in place, the upper part of the (factory) shock can be turned with a much larger wrench. There is a 6-sided spot near the top of the shock body to slip the wrench on to turn it. Even still, it is hard to get much mobility to turn the wrench with everything else in the way. I was able to get the driver side shock off, but after fighting the passenger side for at least an hour (and a few colorful words) I gave up. I simply couldn't get the nut to turn much. I think I might have gotten about 1/8 of a turn at best. I gave the shock to my tire shop and they swapped it for $20. For the trouble I had, it was definitley worth the $20. I bet if I had sprayed the threads w/ PB Blaster for a couple days prior like P Nut suggests, it would have been much easier.

BTW, I installed Monroe Sensa-trac struts and shocks. I'm not 100% sure if I like them or not. The jury is still out. The ride seems a little more bouncy. I was hoping to get a comfortable ride, but not a bouncy one. Over really bumpy roads, I don't feel like the tire is staying in good contact with the road and ends up bouncing a bit. My 4Runner is for mostly in town and highway use and I was afraid the Bilsteins would be too harsh of a choice. Maybe I was wrong; and maybe I'll be swapping them for some Bilsteins.
 
druuu88 said:
did some research on some websites about the issue. They mostly say if you have struts in the front (like 4runner) that the entire strut tower is usually removed from the steering knuckle... which means you need an alignment afterwards.
3rd gen & 4Runners don't have "strut" front suspension: Their front suspension is unequal-length control arm type with concentric coil spring/shock units.

True strut-type suspension systems (such as McPherson) use the strut to partially control suspension geometry and absorb some of the side-loading in the process. These functions are performed by the upper and lower control arms on 3rd gen 'Runners, with the shock-spring units providing only springing and damping.

Since the 4Runner's shock-spring units have nothing to do with geometry or alignment, it isn't necessary to realign after the shocks/springs have been removed and replaced. If you're dealing with true strut-type suspension you do, indeed, need to check alignment after the struts have been off.

As mentioned, the tough (and dangerous) part of doing the front shocks is disassembling the spring-shock units. Spring compressors can store a LOT of energy, and it's all too easy to have one slip, allowing the whole works to fly apart like a hand grenade. The man who took his to a shop for disassembly was very wise, I think.

While we're at it, here's my vote for Bilstein sport shocks. I put a set on our '98 and loved them. However, you'll want to look elsewhere if saving the last penny or achieving the elusive dream-whip ride are your top priorities.

Best regards

Oh, BTW, the easy way to remove 3rd gen rear shocks is to use the nut on the shock rod to counterhold while turning the dust cover (which is keyed to the shock rod) with a strap wrench or pipe wrench.
 
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3rd gen & 4Runners don't have "strut" front suspension: their front suspension is unequal-length control arm type with concentric coil spring/shock units.

True strut-type suspension systems (such as McPherson) use the strut to partially control suspension geometry and absorb some of the side-loading in the process. These functions are performed by the upper and lower control arms on 3rd gen 'Runners, with the shock-spring units providing only springing and damping.

Since the 4Runner's shock-spring units have nothing to do with geometry or alignment, it isn't necessary to realign after the shocks/springs have been removed and replaced. If you're dealing with true strut-type suspension you do, indeed, need to check alignment after the struts have been off.

As mentioned, the tough (and dangerous) part of doing the front shocks is disassembling the spring-shock units. Spring compressors can store a LOT of energy, and it's all too easy to have one slip, allowing the whole works to fly apart like a hand grenade. The man who took his to a shop for disassembly was very wise, I think.

While we're at it, here's my vote for Bilstein sport shocks. I put a set on our '98 and loved them. However, you'll want to look elsewhere if saving the last penny or achieving the elusive dream-whip ride are your top priorities.

Best regards

Oh, BTW, the easy way to remove 3rd gen rear shocks is to use the nut on the shock rod to counterhold while turning the dust cover (which is keyed to the shock rod) with a strap wrench or pipe wrench.

good tip, thanks!
 
If you are willing to wait, you can get the 5100's for about 200 a set, which is not much more than the Monroe or KYB replacement struts.

Here they are for 96 each, which is only 10 more per shock than KYB or Monroe. I wish I had been able to wait, but I had a shock that was coming apart and my in-laws were in town, otherwise I would have parked my Runner and gotten these 5100's for LESS than I paid for the Monroes I got from O'Reilly's.

1999-2006 Toyota Tundra Front Adjustable Bilstein Shocks (24-188265)

Summit has them for 109 each with TOTALLY FREE SHIPPING, according to their site..

TOYOTA TUNDRA Bilstein 5100 Series Shocks 24-188265 - SummitRacing.com

AJUSA - never heard of them, but they are advertising 98 each with free shipping.

Bilstein 24-188265 Monotube Shock Absorber | AJUSA.com

Amazon - 105 each with free shipping

Bilstein 24-188265 Bilstein 5100 Series Ride Height Adjustable Shock Absorber : Amazon.com : Automotive
 
mine was easy!, but then again i bought the O.M.E. pre-assembled front shocks, took about 2 hours!

:bump2:
 

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