Interesting: Modded 06 4Runner V6 vs Stock 06 4Runner V6

It's always been my experience, and what I've been told by much smarter people than myself, that those bolt on things like exhaust, intake, spark plugs, etc. will allow a seriously tweaked engine (in the old days, new cams, stroked, bored etc) to function at a higher level. That is to say if you have a beefed up motor you need to get away from the stock spark, intake, exhaust etc. However, if you have a stock engine, adding all those things does not equal a beefed up engine. And chances are you won't see much, if any, real world improvement.

It's hard to resist the marketing of "better breathing" pieces sometimes. But these new cars are drive-by-wire computerized gizmos and they adjust everything to work within certan parameters and to hit certain target curves. What do you think the MAF sensor does when it senses you "flowing in more air"?

That's not to say you can't reprogram them or get "chips" (pre-programmed ECU components depending on vehicle) for more horsepower but in engineering there is always a trade off. Always.

Old racers have a saying: Low cost, speed, and reliability. Pick two.

But I'm going to claim Village Idiot status on this because people will believe what they want. I mean, who are you going to believe, me or your own eyes? :)
 
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They_are_a_waste_of_money.

Though I am sure they appreciate you helping the economy.

Also, your "shifting".. HAHAHA. Come on. You don't have paddle shifters nor is your transmission tuned to really respond the way you think it should.

The 4runner has an electronic throttle response and I learning computer that attempts to "determine" your want based on pressure.

Spend your money, but take this as some serious research into not wasting your money.

Preach
 
Look it up, you could actually lose some of that low end torque due to lack of back pressure if you combine a high flow exhaust with a high flow intake. And both our V6 and V8 are known for the low end torque.

That's a misnomer because most people don't understand how an exhaust works. As simply as I can put it since I will admit I don't fully understand it is that back pressure is bad. You want zero back pressure but it's impossible to eliminate back pressure completely without compromising exhaust has velocity. Velocity is key to a well tuned exhaust and a good exhaust finds the happy medium between velocity and back pressure.

If someone was familiar with fluid dynamics they could probably explain it in detail but I do not and cannot.
 
With my long tube headers, CAI, 3" exhaust and MAF calibrator, I felt the loss in low end torque but gained a GOOD amount in my top end on my X-Runner.
 
With my long tube headers, CAI, 3" exhaust and MAF calibrator, I felt the loss in low end torque but gained a GOOD amount in my top end on my X-Runner.

Which is fine........for a car. Who in their right mind would want less torque and more of a top end in a 4runner? The xrunner, ok I get that maybe since its a sport truck, but a 5000 pound suv needs all the torque it can get.
 
Exactly, and would probably feel slow as hell in day to day traffic. Just curious, if you lose the low end power but gain top end power, do you really gain anything at all or are you just switching where the horses are? lol
 
They_are_a_waste_of_money.

Though I am sure they appreciate you helping the economy.

Also, your "shifting".. HAHAHA. Come on. You don't have paddle shifters nor is your transmission tuned to really respond the way you think it should.

The 4runner has an electronic throttle response and I learning computer that attempts to "determine" your want based on pressure.

Spend your money, but take this as some serious research into not wasting your money.

As far as "shifting" goes. There is a difference. You can milk your gears much more than in Auto mode. Not to mention, you lose NO TIME when throttling. Throttling in Auto delays a take off due to waiting for the transmission to downshift and take off. So there is a difference.
 
As far as "shifting" goes. There is a difference. You can milk your gears much more than in Auto mode. Not to mention, you lose NO TIME when throttling. Throttling in Auto delays a take off due to waiting for the transmission to downshift and take off. So there is a difference.

Transmission doesn't down shift when you take off. It's already in first gear it's just not moving because your foot is on the brake and the TCC is allowing it to slip so to speak.
 
As far as "shifting" goes. There is a difference. You can milk your gears much more than in Auto mode. Not to mention, you lose NO TIME when throttling. Throttling in Auto delays a take off due to waiting for the transmission to downshift and take off. So there is a difference.



Not sure I buy that. When you place the GEAR selector in 1, all your doing is telling the transmission to prevent up shifting.
Same with 2 and so on. The milking of gears you are referring to I am suspicious of. You mean you destroy the effective power curve more likley. This isn't a 66 3 speed transmission that is super sloppy. This vehicle has, as I mentioned, an electronic throttle and a sensing computer.

I would actually wager you messing with the gears like that would lose to one that is simply in Drive. On the older Toyota you had a ECT button that would tell the computer to shift in a more aggressive pattern. We don't need that, because the ECU will shift more aggressively based on your throttle response. You, flooring it, is going to make the ECU act more aggressively. The car knows when best to shift.


Then again. I could be wrong, I may need to leave it up to the kid who apparently threw a ton of money on "performance" mod's and was unable to smoke a stock runner.
:)
 
Selecting any number of gear on the selector unless the TCM or ECU has been altered most likely won't keep it in that gear. Back when I did truck pulls with my Chevy I had to tune out the safety feature that would automatically shift if you stay in any gear too long near redline.

I would imagine these Toyota transmissions have the same safety feature.
 
Did you have "JL Audio 500/1 Amp, 2 JL Audio W3's 10" in High Output JL Box" in your 4runner during this experiment? Are you running stock tires?

Most of those mods you have are a nice addition; it may not give you a whole lot of jump over a Stock 4Runner. On newer cars, aftermarket Intakes and Exhaust are for looks and sound. *unless you have a turbo or supercharger.

On the other hand, if you had a URD Supercharger and were equal to a stock 4Runner, then you’ve got problems.

Sprint Booster - just "ups" your throttle pedal response.
NST Manifold Spacer - its made of metal, not much thermal help. If it was made of Phenolic, this it would be more helpful; but with our the Intake manifold being made of plastic, you may not see a lot of benefits.
 
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No, none of the speaker stuff was in the car at the time, well the AMP was but whats 10 pounds? haha. But yea weight is a HUGE factor for the 4Runner and most vehicles in general.

It is funny because on one run, I had my A/C off while my brother had his on...still no difference. It is just a strange problem.

I only race for fun, at the end of the day its a 4Runner not a race car, I understand that, but most of all I was aiming for a good sounding SUV and that is what I got.
 

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