Interesting read on truck tow ratings (well, I thought so ...)

Register to hide this ad
Manufacturers today inflate the numbers to make themselves look better on paper and for social media, because one knows bigger is better. It is hard to say how good one car/truck tows vs another until one actually tows in said vehicle.

In twenty years of towing I can say that gear ratios in auto trannys as well as diff ratios make a world of difference. Diesels also tow better, but at a higher cost in the long run.

The best towing car/truck I ever owned was a Ford 150 with the I6 300 in it. Slow, but gobs of torque that would rival most diesels today. The pistons were the size of softballs.

The best towing 4runner IMHO is the 4th Gen with the V8. Too bad my cousin wrecked his beyond repair some years ago.
 
The best towing car/truck I ever owned was a Ford 150 with the I6 300 in it. Slow, but gobs of torque that would rival most diesels today. The pistons were the size of softballs.

I second that. The 300 I6 was basically a gas powered diesel, slow as dirt but not much slower with a huge load, and would outlast any V8. My dads old F150 could do a lot with 155hp. Modern drivetrains are tuned for mpg, and are the opposite of what we need to do actuall work. The only gas motor that has grunt now is the ecoboost, but it comes with its own issues.
 
I came to this forum specifically for researching the V8 4R. Part of my requirement is to find something suitable to tow my track car a few times a year but not a full-sized truck. I understand the bigger is better approach, but it's overkill for my needs.
 
What's the weight of your track car + trailer + tools + track fuel + spare parts + passengers? Are you planning on driving at over 60mph on the highway?

Towing ability isn't just about horsepower, torque, and hitch strength.
 
The art of towing is not going, It's about stopping. I routinely pull 6-9k pounds with my 99.5 Silverado 1500 5.4 4x4. Having a trailer with breaks is a game changer. And the main thing is no matter what you are towing with. IT NOT A RACE! Sure with my routine load some hills are in the 1-2nd gear range. I do not use tow/haul. I actually shift it manually to lock out my gears the best I can.

I see so many loads going down the road un-balanced and tied down poorly. Combine that with unsafe following distance and you have a perfect storm for a wreck. I have driven around 750,000 miles and know just enough to know I'm not that good. [emoji3]

Maintain your rig. Suspension and breaks are imperative. Motor, tranny, differentials are a close second. And take your time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I came to this forum specifically for researching the V8 4R. Part of my requirement is to find something suitable to tow my track car a few times a year but not a full-sized truck. I understand the bigger is better approach, but it's overkill for my needs.
The art of towing is not going, It's about stopping. I routinely pull 6-9k pounds with my 99.5 Silverado 1500 5.4 4x4. Having a trailer with breaks is a game changer. And the main thing is no matter what you are towing with. IT NOT A RACE! Sure with my routine load some hills are in the 1-2nd gear range. I do not use tow/haul. I actually shift it manually to lock out my gears the best I can.
That and the ability keep it between the lines. A V8 4Runner may be able to move the trailer, and you may be able to stop with the help of trailer brakes. But get a wobble/shimmy started by a sudden gust of wind while pulling a wildly overweight trailer with bad load distribution down the interstate at 80MPH; neither your V8 nor the brakes mean squat when that trailer starts tossing your 4Runner around like a toy.

The worse the trailer/tractor weight ratio, the slower you have to go. Seriously... if you need to tow real weights, even only once or twice a year, get a rig capable of handling the job. It may be overkill the rest of the year, but at least it won't kill you.
 
This^^
Once the tail starts wagging the dog your pretty much a passenger. If you just towing a boat down the street your probably fine. But freeway speeds total different story. And you shouldn't be doing 80 with a trailer period. Just saying


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
That and the ability keep it between the lines. A V8 4Runner may be able to move the trailer, and you may be able to stop with the help of trailer brakes. But get a wobble/shimmy started by a sudden gust of wind while pulling a wildly overweight trailer with bad load distribution down the interstate at 80MPH; neither your V8 nor the brakes mean squat when that trailer starts tossing your 4Runner around like a toy.

The worse the trailer/tractor weight ratio, the slower you have to go. Seriously... if you need to tow real weights, even only once or twice a year, get a rig capable of handling the job. It may be overkill the rest of the year, but at least it won't kill you.

I definitely agree. Trail brakes, WDH, all braking and cooling upgrades are considered before even towing with any vehicle.

The car is a Mazda Miata, I weighed it at 2250#. I figure 300-600# for payload (tools, safety gear, extra set of wheels/tires, cooler), I weigh in at 175#. No trailer yet, but I read ranges on 14-16' open trailers at 2000# heaviest (steel deck). The rest were lighter.

I won't be towing over the Grapevine in SOCAL, most of my tracks are across flat or rolling landscapes. Origination from Atlanta, I would probably tow to Atlanta Motorsports Park, Road Atlanta, Roebling, Carolina Motorsports Park, Virginai Int'l Raceway, Barber, Sebring, with Mid Ohio as the furthest, most elevation change up I 75.
 
Last edited:
Manufacturers today inflate the numbers to make themselves look better on paper and for social media, because one knows bigger is better. It is hard to say how good one car/truck tows vs another until one actually tows in said vehicle.

It's worth noting for anyone reading this thread that this is thankfully no longer the case. It was true for decades, but now the standard tow requirements that all manufacturers have agreed to are very tough. They don't just include tongue weight and braking, but also acceleration, cooling, and stability. Tow ratings on new trucks are very conservative and new features like trailer stability control and integrated trailer brakes add a lot of safety margin.

You still need to respect the fact that you are towing and pay attention to the various load limits, but you are by no means pushing the safety of a new truck by towing near the maximum.
 
It's worth noting for anyone reading this thread that this is thankfully no longer the case. It was true for decades, but now the standard tow requirements that all manufacturers have agreed to are very tough. They don't just include tongue weight and braking, but also acceleration, cooling, and stability. Tow ratings on new trucks are very conservative and new features like trailer stability control and integrated trailer brakes add a lot of safety margin.

You still need to respect the fact that you are towing and pay attention to the various load limits, but you are by no means pushing the safety of a new truck by towing near the maximum.

My bad. It does look like the big three finally decided to meet the towing standard after all....
Standardized Tow Rating Procedure Finally Gaining Traction | Edmunds.com
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,317
Messages
3,554,129
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top