Introduction - 2000 4Runner

I've heard before that these engines were built with such high quality control in the factory in Japan, that a rebuild done on these engines by one of us will not yield the same reliable outcome of the factory built engines.

This information I've heard about this might be total hogwash too. I have no experience in rebuilding one of these engines.

Cutlass,

I tend to think along the same lines. I'm not positive I could get remotely close to the accuracy they achieve in the factory on a completely clean and flawless engine. Even following to FSM to a T. There's a video log of a 5VZ-FE headgasket job on youtube under the profile "worsethanchiggers" which looks extremely thorough and would probably be a invaluable resource.

Having said that, I feel I would be taking an even bigger chance rebuilding the heads and still not knowing the health of the bottom end only to save a couple hundred dollars; initially anyhow.
 
A little update -

Compression readings were about 210 across all of the cylinders except for the ones with the misfires which read about 25 and 10 respectively.

It looks like like the carbon buildup on top of the pistons has increased the compression to higher than regular levels. It is possible that the compression tester is no good, although the good news is that even if the gauge was off, I got consistent numbers on the other 4 cylinders which is supposed to be a good sign from what I have read. Consistency more than actual values with these types of tests correct?

Just wanted to give an update for all that replied to my post.

Thanks again

Matt
 
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you do mean 225 and 210 ? or just 25 and 10?

if the latter, you have a dead cyl, of the 1st, then nothing to worry about.
 
Sorry about the poor writing snowlizard I was a little tired. Yes I do mean that #2 and #6 are in bad shape with very low compression.

So it looks like a head gasket and probably valve job are in order barring any other problems that may arise in the process. I'll have to pull the valve covers off again and get the clearances to see if any adjusting needs to be done.

Until next time
 
wow, that's bad...

The numbering is (for my memory reference)
5 6
3 4
1 2
Front

so your drivers side is dead... have you thought of just rebuilding the heads? it's possible it's only related to the head on that side...

to test the rings, you can put 2-3 caps of oil in, and try the same test... IF it raises the compression you know it's rings, IF no change to compression, then it's top end.

Good luck
 
After thinking long and hard about it I have decided to rebuild the driver side head. I thought about the rings although, for the compression ring to be that toast, wouldn't it make sense that the oil rings wouldn't be in too good of shape either and I would be seeing some smoke out of the tailpipe at least or some major oil consumption. I may be totally wrong in thinking that.

Those numbers are really low, not even say 30psi lower than the others, or even 70-90psi total. 20-25psi and about 10psi on the other seem like there is a gasket or valve issue. Especially coupling that with the fact that the tailpipe would suck a piece of paper back into it while it was running. "Dollar bill trick" I have heard it called.

Just did a valve clearance check and I got anywhere from .012-.014 on every driver side exhaust valve except for the #2 exhaust valve on the #2 cylinder, which was .010 (too tight).

Stay Tuned - for a look at under the valve covers, since changing it with full synthetic and not even running it 50 miles. Unbelievable difference, I'll get pictures up ASAP.

7c739a32ece2ea710a72c6d1d12ade34.jpg
Passenger

52fbe6139a10fb27c1c010011c8ea1bf.jpg
Driver

What a testament to modern oils.
 
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Thank you wilson, I'm going to need it.

4x4 - That is with Penzoil ultra platinum. Definitely overkill to use just for cleaning, but Hey, I wanted to give the thing to best chance possible at cleaning out. I am confident that with short runs on the future oil changes this thing will be back to tip top shape in no time.
 
All right boys, finally got down to it. Took a good while to do it as it was my first engine tear down.

Low and behold both cylinder 2 and 6 have an exhaust valve that is absolutely toasted. It's almost comical how far gone they are. It really baffles me that people will spend so much on a car and not take care of it. It is all relative I suppose.

Without further ado,

b8c7d9549c0a18e2975e12b3ac822982.jpg


3cd0ca125d8af338f33fc7778f87540d.jpg


058ae062ee214d1660008a9ff1983b3d.jpg


Check out the ~2mm or so of carbon buildup on the last picture.

I'm happy to have found my problem and am forever grateful to those of you who reached out to me and gave an opinion on what they thought of my situation.

Until next

Matt
 
All right well I got the heads back from the machine shop and started getting everything back together.

I could use some help from those of you feel up for it. I'm currently setting the timing and wanted to get a few more opinions of if I am where I need to be. They look pretty on to me, but I have no clue. are they a tooth off?

Here are a couple of pictures of my current timing.
58d8e06e40f08d5621463e0e0b5e969f.jpg

f238cae2a9ea99964c59e2db5a3db194.jpg
3aa6d2150ac9a293caf8d659a7de24a4.jpg


Thanks in advance guys

Matt
 
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You might also want to consider checking the coil packs. They rarely seem to last over 100K or that's my experience. You'll sure get a miss when they start going bad.
 
All right well I got the heads back from the machine shop and started getting everything back together.

I could use some help from those of you feel up for it. I'm currently setting the timing and wanted to get a few more opinions of if I am where I need to be. They look pretty on to me, but I have no clue. are they a tooth off?

Here are a couple of pictures of my current timing.
58d8e06e40f08d5621463e0e0b5e969f.jpg

f238cae2a9ea99964c59e2db5a3db194.jpg
3aa6d2150ac9a293caf8d659a7de24a4.jpg


Thanks in advance guys

Matt


looks good, is the belt new and OEM? OEM comes with cam marks and crank shaft mark.

couldn't see
 
All right well I got the heads back from the machine shop and started getting everything back together.

I could use some help from those of you feel up for it. I'm currently setting the timing and wanted to get a few more opinions of if I am where I need to be. They look pretty on to me, but I have no clue. are they a tooth off?

Here are a couple of pictures of my current timing.
58d8e06e40f08d5621463e0e0b5e969f.jpg

f238cae2a9ea99964c59e2db5a3db194.jpg
3aa6d2150ac9a293caf8d659a7de24a4.jpg


Thanks in advance guys

Matt

You might also want to consider checking the coil packs. They rarely seem to last over 100K or that's my experience. You'll sure get a miss when they start going bad.


just asking is something i do all the time when i do head gaskets on 3rd gens.

New Plugs, Coil Packs, Knock sensor harnes, water pump and thermostat, timing belt.
 
Hey guys, the belt looks like aftermarket. It was replaced by the previous owner.

I appreciate the responses. The tune ups per say I did do were the plugs and wires as well as the Air/Fuel sensor.

I ended up adjusting the timing a couple more times. I was able to get it just right. For some reason when I installed the tensioner it moved the passenger side cam gear over a tad.

I could not have done this without all of the inspiration and support from y'all telling me that the engine had plenty of life still in it etc. When I pulled the heads the cylinders still had cross hatching. 190k miles and cross hatching, if that doesn't say something about the engineering of these vehicles I don't know what does. And if you missed the previous- the engine was very sludged indicating a ridiculous amount of neglect.

Thank you all. Sounds just like a sewing machine and has so much pep!

Matt
 

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