Is 272k too long to replace my timing belt?

i had 260k on my original. The idler pulley bearing decided to fail on me at a redlight, about a mile down the road
 
260k and mine is original WP and TB that I can tell. Its never too LONG to do maintenance. That doesnt even compute right in my brain at all.
 
When I did mine at 15 years, and at 101,000 miles, the belt and the water pump along with the idlers looked fine. What had happened though that caught my eye is how much the belt had stretched, enough to where the tensioner was fully extended, to the point where I was able to just literally pull the belt off the top idler. Hence the reason for the recommended 90,000 miles or 10 years for a change.

Putting the new belt on after getting everything lined up was one big PITA.

Don't shirk this PM job IMHO but YMMV.
 
When I did mine at 15 years, and at 101,000 miles, the belt and the water pump along with the idlers looked fine. What had happened though that caught my eye is how much the belt had stretched, enough to where the tensioner was fully extended, to the point where I was able to just literally pull the belt off the top idler. Hence the reason for the recommended 90,000 miles or 10 years for a change.

Putting the new belt on after getting everything lined up was one big PITA.

Don't shirk this PM job IMHO but YMMV.

Would that cause a slight low-end glug at lower RPMs, under load?

Mine runs fine and it isn't really a knocking.

I've had it for 3mo now, planning on having everything done next month.
 
Would that cause a slight low-end glug at lower RPMs, under load?

Mine runs fine and it isn't really a knocking.

I've had it for 3mo now, planning on having everything done next month.

I couldn't say for sure; doing the small stuff such as cleaning the TB, tightening the throttle cable lines (not for an 01, 02) along with new plugs and wires would help, not to mention possibly using an injection cleaner such as Royal Purple before an oil change. Then make another evaluation.

Two things I noticed after my belt/H20 change is that the engine had more pep and the ATF temps have been cooler ( I keep my 70264 and spin on filter in line with the radiator).
 
I'll be honest, I did the TB, water pump, alternator, pulleys, idlers blah, blah, blah on my 2002 at about 90k (not because of problems but because of recommended service interval) on the belt, and because I didn't want to have to hassle with the b.s. of getting back in there later on the other stuff.

The timing belt looked great and in retrospect I wouldn't have even thought about doing the belt until 150K minimal, and would have left everything else alone till something broke.

I spent quite a bit on doing everything (right and with top quality parts) and ended up trading it in a while back on a 2015 TE so it was pretty much a waste of my money.

Now, if you have a seal, or water pump go thats a different story on the belt but since it's a non-interference motor and I personally (someone I know) have never heard of a 4Runner belt breaking I would be more inclined to stretch things way beyond the recommended.

The motor and the belt are incredibly well built and with regular oil changes there seems to be little short of intentional abuse that will break them.
 
Recommend Changing Pulley and Tensioner with TB/WP

So looks like I will be replacing wp/tb.
Jason

Recommend changing everything the belt comes in contact with since you have everything apart, except the damper pulley (new bolt recommended - cheap insurance). New timing belt tensioner, idler and front camshaft seals, the crank seal and the half moon seals for valve covers. Since you leaked green, you have the wrong (less desired) anti-freeze in there. These T4R's like the OEM "Long Life" factory red. Start soaking the balancer bolt with break-free NOW and both cam pulley bolts.

With that many miles, have you searched the forum on the strawberry milkshake and the LBJ problems? Again, cheap repairs considering the alternative. Enjoy
 
Cheap Insurance

The timing belt looked great and in retrospect I wouldn't have even thought about doing the belt until 150K minimal, and would have left everything else alone till something broke.

The motor and the belt are incredibly well built and with regular oil changes there seems to be little short of intentional abuse that will break them.

I fully agree with you. Drove mine right off the lot under ten miles and had someone do the belt and pump twice. I do all of my maintenance now. Never did the LBJ's or tensioner, pulley etc. Original radiator with more than 300k miles on it (recently changed). Same alternator, OTRE, ITRE, etc.... Just did the TB/Pump etc and all looked fantastic. Could have gone another 100k IMO. Anyway, considering the alternative, I've decided to go with the cheap insurance and spend the extra $$$ and do it right (safe). I'm keeping mine though. Sold too many cars I wish I would have kept. Two door Chevelle with a 396 for starters, two door nova, cosworth twin cam vega, 70 trans am with a 455...etc...
 
I couldn't say for sure; doing the small stuff such as cleaning the TB, tightening the throttle cable lines (not for an 01, 02) along with new plugs and wires would help, not to mention possibly using an injection cleaner such as Royal Purple before an oil change. Then make another evaluation.

Two things I noticed after my belt/H20 change is that the engine had more pep and the ATF temps have been cooler ( I keep my 70264 and spin on filter in line with the radiator).

I've done plugs/wires, seafoam (gas and crankcase in my prior two oil changes), then switched to synthetic 5w30.

I'll probably go ahead with the throttle body lines bc it really only happens when I'm in gear, fully warmed up. Slight glug from the low-end, seems like from the front of the engine. Almost a vibration. It idles steadily at 7-750 in P/N, and when it dips to 6-650 in D/R the noise happens.

Thought it might be related to a stretched TB or old WP, but if it's not a common sign....

Hm.
 
Sold too many cars I wish I would have kept. Two door Chevelle with a 396 for starters, two door nova, cosworth twin cam vega, 70 trans am with a 455...etc...

Talk to me brother.

I had a '69 Dodge Dart 340, 70' Duster 340, and my Dad and I almost (and I cry when I say almost) bought a numbers matching '69 Road Runner 440 6 BBL back in 1985 that was a one owner car in Lincoln, NE. My Dad was nervous about the $14K price tag and we didn't do it.

Coulda. Shoulda. Woulda.

If my 401K performed half as well as muscle car values I'd be retired young.

I'm not even going to put salt in your wound on the '70 TA 455. You already know.

The Cosworth Vega I'll give you a pass on. I know they Cosworths were fairly rare but a Vega is a Vega and they were all total shit (yep, I owned one unfortunately).

It's funny how things change. When I was in high school, I knew kids that drove GTO Judges, Olds W-30's, Road Runners, Z-28's. Hell, one of my good buddies had a 66 Mustang GT and after that a 70 1/2 Split bumper RS Z-28 (yes, the 360 HP version).

I think he sold that Z-28 for like $1800 in 1984.

Hindsight is a *****. That's for sure.

Tell you what though, those 340's I had were phucking wicked. Chrysler rated them at 275 HP and that was the biggest joke on the face of the earth. Both my 340's (one auto, one 4 speed) would smoke the tires all day long until your right foot let off.
 
Talk to me brother. 70 1/2 Split bumper RS Z-28 (yes, the 360 HP version). I think he sold that Z-28 for like $1800 in 1984.

What a crime - $1800. Wish I had my first 4wd - CJ7 Renegade 304 with a edlbrock torker high rise, Sigerson cam, 10 over sleeved, forged, rochester quadrajet, 3 core radiator flex fan etc...etc...etc. Had all the goodies. Lot of creep in a jeep jokes on here but at least you could really build em up if you wanted to. NEVER got stranded anywhere. Back when it was AMC. Sorry guys,,,Time to get on track on this thread...Still enjoying doing whatever mods I can to the ole 3rd gen.
 
Generally a car will feel like it runs a bit better after a timing belt change, especially a long interval change. As the belt stretches, it alters... generally retards cam timing a bit. Just enough that you think it feels a little more peppy when all is new.
 
Update

Removed water pump...looks oem. Cant tell timing belt.
 

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Update

Water pump blades were chewing into the side...bearings
Timing belt....what a mess. Maybe original
 

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The above pic is a clear reason why almost all manufacturers use chains now and no more timing belts.

Yea, I'd have to say both are original. It looks like the belt caught fire and kept on going or just got chewed up with time.
 
Well add me to the ridiculously long overdue for a timing belt change.
I bought the belt, hose, water pump, thermostat and gasket today.


Not because it failed. Because I have 208,000 on the odometer.
 
I replace mine at 202,000 and it looks just like that but still was running strong, did the water pump, tensioner, roller cam and crank seals. Good for another 200,000 miles
 
I have been trying to find someone to do everything for me (other than the dealership - got a quote ... walked away :nono:). I only have 110k on my '02 but I know it needs to be done sooner than later.

Quick question though, I have enough mechanical experience to make me dangerous, and an understanding of what NEEDS to be done but I have never done it before. Would this be something I could pull off on my own? I haven't had it done because of the dealership cost, and I can't find anyone else to do it ...
 
I think you could tackle it... If for example, you can change brakes, valve cover gaskets, rotate your own tires and such. No exactly rocket science to replace it. Just time consuming is all.
 
I think you could tackle it... If for example, you can change brakes, valve cover gaskets, rotate your own tires and such. No exactly rocket science to replace it. Just time consuming is all.

Sounds like a busy weekend ... Im gonna do it ... I know if i get stuck i can hit you guys up :wink2:
 

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