Is it just my battery?

Tilt

Tilt

New member
A new issue has come up lately with my '97. I have a feeling my battery might be the cause, but I'm not sure.

Whenever I go to start my runner, it's a crap-shoot as to how many turns of the key I do before it starts. Sometimes the engine will crank on the first try - other times it'll just go "click"....and nothing. When the engine does crank....it sounds solid (and starts) no problem. It's very random. Sometimes it'll crank first try - sometimes I go through a few "click's" before it'll crank - and sometimes it "click's" a bunch of times prior to cranking. There's no rhyme or reason to it.

Yesterday I took the battery out, and did a cleaning session in that area. There was some acid on the battery - and a little build-up on the neg post. I cleaned it all - and put new battery connectors on. But the issue remains.

Any ideas?
 
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It's prob your starter. I had the same problem. It would sometimes click a few times then start fine. See if they can rebuild the starter instead of putting a cheap plastic one in. The OEM one has a metal housing.
 
Probably your starter.

Although if your battery is leaking acid, get it tested for free at one of the auto parts stores. Might be a good idea to get that checked too.
 
bpowa said:
is it just 1 click?

Id take a volt meter to it.. possible starter,,
Click to expand...


It's random. Sometimes 1 click - other times several - but sometimes none.

So it's sounding like the starter. Uhhhgggg!!! I wonder how hard it would be to rebuild myself? Parts around here require a small fortune!!
 
Robb235 said:
Probably your starter.

Although if your battery is leaking acid, get it tested for free at one of the auto parts stores. Might be a good idea to get that checked too.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I was thinking a new battery was in order anyways. Not fond of the acid - even though it looked to be a small amount. Just wondered if that was the cause of the "click's".
 
yeah its the contacts, part is cheap under 10 bucks, doing it is easy too, getting starter in n out is a PITA
 
t4r4life said:
yeah its the contacts, part is cheap under 10 bucks, doing it is easy too, getting starter in n out is a PITA
Click to expand...

My brother-in-law is coming this next weekend. Looks like we'll have a project to do!! Thanks for all the help here.
 
The clicking, no start condition is a typical sign of a bad battery CONTACT OR CONNECTION. The acid creeps down the black neg battery cable and corrodes the wire. I would suggest that you first replace the black battery cable for $10. A bad ground is the same as having a dead battery. You can search the forum for the "big three" for info on where the wires go.

You should also clean up the acid with a baking soda and water paste. Then rise with a garden hose to clean it off.

Heres an interesting fact. Electrons dont flow inside of copper wire, they flow on the surface of the wire (of course under the plastic covering). So if the wires are coated in acid, the electron flow slows down.
 
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Drcoffee said:
The clicking, no start condition is a typical sign of a bad battery CONTACT OR CONNECTION. The acid creeps down the black neg battery cable and corrodes the wire. I would suggest that you first replace the black battery cable for $10. A bad ground is the same as having a dead battery. You can search the forum for the "big three" for info on where the wires go.

You should also clean up the acid with a baking soda and water paste. Then rise with a garden hose to clean it off.

Heres an interesting fact. Electrons dont flow inside of copper wire, they flow on the surface of the wire (of course under the plastic covering). So if the wires are coated in acid, the electron flow slows down.
Click to expand...

The single click and no crank when turning the key is characteristic of the STARTER contacts problem as the solenoid activates, plunger descends as it should, but no current flows from the battery contact to the motor contact. I understood this to be the case for the OP.

Bad battery or battery contact including corroding cables will usually produce repetitive clicking while the key is held, where the solenoid chatters because the current is weak or intermittent, or no click at all because the solenoid can't move the plunger.

That said, a good check of the cables and attachment points (positive and ground) and replacement or repair if at all funky should be step 1A of looking at any electrical issue especially no-start ones.
 
TheDurk said:
The single click and no crank when turning the key is characteristic of the STARTER contacts problem as the solenoid activates, plunger descends as it should, but no current flows from the battery contact to the motor contact. I understood this to be the case for the OP.

Bad battery or battery contact including corroding cables will usually produce repetitive clicking while the key is held, where the solenoid chatters because the current is weak or intermittent, or no click at all because the solenoid can't move the plunger.

That said, a good check of the cables and attachment points (positive and ground) and replacement or repair if at all funky should be step 1A of looking at any electrical issue especially no-start ones.
Click to expand...


It is a single click - with no start. I did clean up all the acid (with water and baking soda) - as well as installed new connectors (but not new wires). And the original issue remains. Random single 'click' with no start. I'll likely do the contacts, and possibly a new neg wire as well. And I think a new battery.

I appreciate all the discussion here. Gives me lots to look at when I get a chance.
 
Its been 30 years since i had this starter solenoid problem, but if I recall, the starter would usually fail after it had heated up from the engine running. Cold starts were usually okay. The reason I recommend the battery cable first is it cheap and easy. Now as for having a bad neg battery cable stop me from driving, i have had that happen more than 4 or 5 times.
 
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A '97 with possibly the original starter/contacts? Yeah. Its likely the starter. The only thing that has failed on my '99 in 10 years, were the contacts. Mine would have problems starting cold more than hot.

Don't start throwing parts at it only because they're cheap. :ybrick:

You can drop the starter and pull the contacts out while its still in the engine compartment. Its not fun, but it can be done. Check the contacts for wear a'la the aforementioned repair thread. Finding the problem is free, throwing parts at a car until you get it right isn't.
 
High probability that it is your solenoid contact wearing thin. You can get them at your dealership. It is a bit of a puzzle getting the starter out. It doesn't have to be removed really, just get the solenoid cover plate facing you. Once you have its cover removed you can replace the contacts. The contacts are not interchangeable so be aware of which goes where. Since you're in there and you only want to do this every blue moon, you may consider changing the plunger that the contacts...contact! Both contacts w/each of their pieces and the plunger were $78 from my dealership, YMMV. Call them first for availability BEFORE you need them so they can order them if necessary (only a day or so). May sound expensive but you are getting exactly what you need from them. Have your VIN# when you call.

This thread may help:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/63228-another-starter-contacts-removal-thread.html

Good luck!
 
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Contacts and Plunger are on order - should have them in a day or 2. Going to be a bit over a hundred bucks after taxes. Not bad in my books.
 
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