Is it possible to get a tool list please

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I am going to attempt to put a Old man Emu 3 inch lift on my 5th gen. It has 25k miles so I hope everything will come of easy. Is there a tols list so I can get everything ready I don't want to start it and have everything started just to not be able to do it. I have never done a lift before so I have no clue what I am doing. I know its springs and shocks so it cant be that hard right?
 
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I am going to attempt to put a Old man Emu 3 inch lift on my 5th gen. It has 25k miles so I hope everything will come of easy. Is there a tols list so I can get everything ready I don't want to start it and have everything started just to not be able to do it. I have never done a lift before so I have no clue what I am doing. I know its springs and shocks so it cant be that hard right?

Well...the answer depends on exactly what parts you will be replacing. The job is not "hard"; but it is time consuming and the potential to get yourself hung in the middle of the project because you did not anticipate something or dont have ALL of the correct tools. Also, 3" will almost guarantee the need for UCA's to get the steering geometry back to close the the stock settings.

I am currently waiting on Eibach to finish the TRD PRO front coils, but here is a mostly complete list of what I have available for the project.
Coil spring compressor, ball joint separator, 24" x 1/2 breaker bar. A complete set of METRIC wrenches 5mm-30mm; A complete set of metric sockets in 3/8 & 1/2 drive. 5-32mm. A small air impact wrench with selected metric impact sockets 15,17,19,21, a torque wrench with a list of Toyota torque specs, 6ton frame jacks, and a short hydraulic bottle jack, wheel chocks, a set of RAD RUBBER DESIGNS replacement splash shields, SPC UCA's; PB Blaster and anti seize, A good stock of Shiner Bock in the fridge.
TIP: allow twice the time you think you need, take your time and double check your work. Rears take a fraction of the time of the fronts.
Good luck!
AMLOR
 
Well...the answer depends on exactly what parts you will be replacing. The job is not "hard"; but it is time consuming and the potential to get yourself hung in the middle of the project because you did not anticipate something or dont have ALL of the correct tools. Also, 3" will almost guarantee the need for UCA's to get the steering geometry back to close the the stock settings.

I am currently waiting on Eibach to finish the TRD PRO front coils, but here is a mostly complete list of what I have available for the project.
Coil spring compressor, ball joint separator, 24" x 1/2 breaker bar. A complete set of METRIC wrenches 5mm-30mm; A complete set of metric sockets in 3/8 & 1/2 drive. 5-32mm. A small air impact wrench with selected metric impact sockets 15,17,19,21, a torque wrench with a list of Toyota torque specs, 6ton frame jacks, and a short hydraulic bottle jack, wheel chocks, a set of RAD RUBBER DESIGNS replacement splash shields, SPC UCA's; PB Blaster and anti seize, A good stock of Shiner Bock in the fridge.
TIP: allow twice the time you think you need, take your time and double check your work. Rears take a fraction of the time of the fronts.
Good luck!
AMLOR



I have never heard of changing the UCA's. I might have to hold off, I have had the kit since last July but I am now in need of a bumper so the UCA's wheels and tires are next on my list along with sliders. Well sliders mught be next since they are cheaper than UCA's or Wheels/tires.
 
I had kdss and didnt use a sprimg compresser. You may need a different size socket for track bar. The 22mm was to loosen the alignment bolt on the LCA. You may not need that. The factory top shot nut was 17 and my eibach was 19. Not sure what the OME is.

Rough list.

Floor jack

4x floor jack stands

OEM spare tire jack

have wrenches in 8mm, 17mm, 19mm,

have sockets in 12mm, 19mm, 17mm, 22mm

Breaker bar

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I would add that if you can get ratcheting wrench for the topnut on the shocks (not sure of the size), it would be extremely helpful.
 
I would add that if you can get ratcheting wrench for the topnut on the shocks (not sure of the size), it would be extremely helpful.
Theyre 17 oem and mine were 19 for the eibach. And yes ratchet wrench wasvery helpful

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I have never heard of changing the UCA's. I might have to hold off, I have had the kit since last July but I am now in need of a bumper so the UCA's wheels and tires are next on my list along with sliders. Well sliders mught be next since they are cheaper than UCA's or Wheels/tires.

You'll want to move UCA's to the top of the list with a 3" lift, unless you're comfortable dealing with a truck that's overly squirrelly/sensitive at highway speeds for steering.

The UCA's add in caster, which is reduced when you lift the truck, bringing you back into specs. 2.5" is usually the cut-off - I started without UCA's and installed almost immediately.

I wasn't willing to drop $500+ on some control arms, so I went with the Freedom Offroad UCA's. Normally $360, I found a set for $280, so figured why not at that price. My alignment came back all green and at 3.6 degrees caster- the steering is actually a bit better in regards to tracking straight and not being as touchy compared to stock.

Tools, as mentioned above. I got away with 2 jack stands. You'll also need a torque wrench. Ratcheting crescent wrenches for the rear shocks are crucial - the factory nut was a 17mm but the dobinsons nut was an 18mm.

UCA's really didn't take that long to install, not sure why people make such a big deal about them. I did after I had my lift in, from the time I pulled the truck in the garage to the time I took it for a test drive was 90 minutes. I did not take the bolts out of the engine bay, just slid them forward/out of the UCA's.
 

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