Is My Tranny Cooler Big Enough?

Sherwood4Runner

Sherwood4Runner

New member
Long story short when I bought my 4runner 3 years ago the owners had just installed a Hayden tranny cooler, so I never batted an eye towards the Pink Milk Shake.

Today, I did a regular automatic transmission fluid flush and realized that the owners just added this tranny cooler to the existing stock cooler built into the radiator. Therefore, I am still at risk for the pink milk shake (260,000 miles currently). Can you look at this cooler and tell if it is big enough for me to eliminate the stock tranny cooler, or if I need to buy a bigger tranny cooler. Who knows how old this radiator is, so I want to take care of this pronto. Thanks in advanced.

<img src='http://imageshack.us/a/img35/9672/20130329124236.jpg' border='0'/>

<img src='http://imageshack.us/a/img43/2215/20130329124214.jpg' border='0'/>
 
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OR is pretty hilly, if it were me I'd just buy a Denso or Koyo replacement radiator and install the current cooler inline with the new internal, giving maximum cooling ability. At 260k+ I'm sure a new radiator wouldn't hurt, and they are only about $100 or so for those two quality brands and very easy to install.

To answer your question, IMO it looks a bit small from the pics to be the sole source of cooling, but it's hard to tell given the angles. You'd be amazed how hot ATF can get crawling up hills or in traffic with only an external cooler. A new radiator would eliminate the worry of pink milkshake for a long time, I plan on doing a new radiator every 100k or so, with coolant flushes every 1.5 to 2 years to keep the insides looking fresh and good.
 
well were they have it mounted is not ideal either, it should be up in the grille, where i can get maximum airflow to it, down low like that is bad for two reasons, 1 is the lower valance is cutting back/restricting air flow to it, and its down low and at risk for getting smashed on rocks or hit by low flying road debris... i know you dont wheel your runner as hard as some of us but i do remember seeing you wheel out at browns camp and id be a little worried with it that low. as others have said buy a new radiator asap to eliminated that risk. its up to you if you want to run it in line, personally with a new radiator i would be ok with the inline set up for a while, but im a big fan of the sand-alone cooler(s), at witch point i think youd want a second one. -even on cool days, i can see well in to the 220+ range when out wheeling in the snow at slow speeds, or just climbing hills, and im running dual coolers.

the factory warning light comes on at 270+/- degrees, so by the time that light comes on you are already cooking things. my external temp gauge pegs out at 250, and on the few times it has gotten that hot i will stop and let things cool down for 15 or 20min.

again its your call but i would at least get a new rad
 
I know also the way its mounted is another discussion also. I know my B&M Tranny cooler said to mount it either with the ports on the side or facing up. From what I have seen on the forum, most people say not to mount the tranny coolers with the ports down. The other two directions allow for maximum cooling, according to the manufacture stats.
 
Nobody can answer your question. Go buy a trans temp guage and monitor it yourself. If you decide to reconfig your truck be ready for problems to occur.
 
Thanks for all the input. It is pretty small compared to other external coolers I've seen on other t4r's, so I'm planning replacing the radiator sometime in the future at this point. I always thought this was located in a bad spot....It'll be relocated somepoint soon too, and in a better orientation.
 
Sherwood4Runner said:
Thanks for all the input. It is pretty small compared to other external coolers I've seen on other t4r's, so I'm planning replacing the radiator sometime in the future at this point. I always thought this was located in a bad spot....It'll be relocated somepoint soon too, and in a better orientation.
Click to expand...

Regarding the transmission cooler, the Hayden 678 is 11" x 9.5" x 0.75". Hayden 678 is correct size for our vehicle. The Hayden 678 is the same as the TRD cooler. Hayden makes it for them.
 
Isn't the TRD cooler designed to be run inline with the internal cooler as an additional source of cooling, say for lifted guys or those with the TRD supercharger? My parents have a '02 Tundra TRD 4x4 with the towing package and that's how it's run from the factory on that rig. The TRD cooler just looks a bit small to be the sole source of cooling IMO, but it's impossible to say for sure without a ATF temp gauge.
 
The TRD/Hayden cooler is much too small to be used as the only cooler for our trucks. It'll work in addition to the stock cooler though.
 
Very nice, however those hoses are hanging too low. If you go 4wheeling, a bush is gonna rip those off in no time.:ohwell:
 
NateMob said:
The TRD/Hayden cooler is much too small to be used as the only cooler for our trucks. It'll work in addition to the stock cooler though.
Click to expand...

I would have to respectfully disagree. Many People have used the Hayden 678 or TRD while bypassing the radiator. Have never read any negative comments about it. Many have ATF temp gauges built into the line also to confirm this. Many threads on this at TTORA and YOTATECH. Hayden rates the 678 for 5000lb towing. Based on my research, this is my opinion.
 
AZTOY said:
I would have to respectfully disagree. Many People have used the Hayden 678 or TRD while bypassing the radiator. Have never read any negative comments about it. Many have ATF temp gauges built into the line also to confirm this. Many threads on this at TTORA and YOTATECH. Hayden rates the 678 for 5000lb towing. Based on my research, this is my opinion.
Click to expand...

The basis for my claim comes from B&M themselves in the next to last bullet on the left of the first page here. They recommend nothing less than 20,500 BTUs, if bypassing the radiator. Unfortunately i cannot find any BTU ratings anywhere for the much smaller Hayden/TRD cooler. This pdf also makes note of why not to route the hoses from the bottom of any cooler. http://bmracing.com/wp-bnmcont/uploads/bm_cooler_techdoc.pdf

Here is a chart showing the BTU differences in their own coolers with the same stacked plate construction as the smaller 678 from Hayden.
IMG_20130321_002011_zpsf0ea2636.jpg~original


Our very own [MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION] has said that he has seen over 220* during the summer running the TRD cooler in line with the radiator. He is planning on adding a B&M 70264(14,400 btu) to help cool things further.

I do a lot of slow crawling here in the southwest and after seeing how small the 678/TRD cooler was, i knew i wanted something rated higher to keep my fluid cool, I bypassed the radiator and just run the B&M 70266. In other climates the 678/TRD might suffice but i didnt want to chance it.
 
Well, Hayden rates it for 24,000 gvw, class c motorhomes, and 5000 lb towing. And real world results from many Toyota owners on Toyota forums use them with no bad results. Your B&M chart doesn't necessarily mean the same for the Rapid Cool Hayden 678. I can't find any info on it's btu rating for fact. But posts I read say it is 20,000. I guess we will just agree to disagree.
 
[MENTION=54101]AZTOY[/MENTION] by the way, great looking truck. Next time I'm over your way maybe even hit some trails!
 
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