Shawnathan9's Build Thread

[shawnathan9]

Washer fluid relocate mod and big 3 mod

I decided to prep the RNR for a future wheel install and went over to O'Reilys and purchased a aftermarket coolant return system that many of us have been using for the washer fluid container relocate.

<a href="https://imgbb.com/"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/fdBTWdm/6010253-idy-bvr4-pri-larg.jpg" alt="6010253-idy-bvr4-pri-larg" border="0"></a>

The job was pretty easy; there are many tutorials to give you and idea of how it works then it's all up to you as to how you want to install the Toyota pumps onto the new container. Personally, I clipped the containers lower bracket nipples and then step drilled to fit the Toyota grommets on each side and then mounted the pumps which cleared the radiator and the head light plug :thumb3:

<a href="https://ibb.co/fDNJ6Gw"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/MB1dw50/20210131-203848-Copy.jpg" alt="20210131-203848-Copy" border="0"></a>

To help with future plans, I bought 4 gauge wires and connectors to beef up the grounds/electrical;

Engine to Chassis:
<a href="https://ibb.co/mCBLkqj"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/ynRwty9/20210204-113918.jpg" alt="20210204-113918" border="0"></a>

Positive to Alternator:
<a href="https://ibb.co/KKgGL0x"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/7kDzRYt/20210204-113853.jpg" alt="20210204-113853" border="0"></a>

Negative to chassis:
<a href="https://ibb.co/Ws24HD0"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/yVQcNhp/20210204-113848.jpg" alt="20210204-113848" border="0"></a>

Military grade battery terminals:
<a href="https://ibb.co/NKMBJtq"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/m43W2bK/20210204-113904.jpg" alt="20210204-113904" border="0"></a>

:cheers:

 

[shawnathan9]

Installed 5th gen rims w/BF Goodrich K02's, & 1.25 Spidertrax spacers.

Just replaced two lug studs on the rear of the truck. How did this happen?

I had America's Tires, Redwood City, Ca, place 285's on some 2014 OEM rims. I saw the guy torque on my rear without hand threading it. When I got home, I checked and sure enough...it was frozen.

I'm never going back to America's Tires for any wheels anymore. They just lost my business.

Now, I spent a few minutes taking off my drum and knocking out the broken stud lugs:
<a href="https://ibb.co/Nn7jMvc"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/G3F2q6z/20210205-073609.jpg" alt="20210205-073609" border="0"></a>

<a href="https://ibb.co/TcNsP09"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/dBHRkp8/20210205-082342.jpg" alt="20210205-082342" border="0"></a>

After all that mess, I drove my Gs300 down to Napa auto parts and picked up two lug nuts and lug studs. Went to work and then added a 1.25 Spidertrax spacer.

I went from this (The roof rack and rims were from the previous owner:
<a href="https://ibb.co/gPdDqSv"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/X3Dz07y/20201130-172628.jpg" alt="20201130-172628" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/5nLTG42"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/ZYxdGXN/20201130-172555.jpg" alt="20201130-172555" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/H7qy5Gn"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/cJQ942D/20201130-172605.jpg" alt="20201130-172605" border="0"></a>


To this:
<a href="https://ibb.co/w6YzbQ0"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/vzDjrdw/20210205-105510.jpg" alt="20210205-105510" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/fr1zBQZ"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/dkWw17X/20210205-105520.jpg" alt="20210205-105520" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/FxfmQVZ"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/vwrVNYy/20210205-105531.jpg" alt="20210205-105531" border="0"></a>

*There was not wheel well rubbing with OEM 17" at 285/70/17's. Once the 1.25" Spidertrax were added, I had rubbing in the front and rear flares and pinch weld.

I hammered down the pinch weld, cut some flares in the front and heat gun'd the rear wells plastic lining and flare mounts until I had not rubbing. *I still have to get down there and remove the coil and check for full compression rubs another day.

*I already got a buyer for my Vision 353 Turbine's. - 800 total for them along with a near full tread Yokohama Geolander A/T's on all four.

:guitar3:

 

[shawnathan9]

Installed Rock lights

Last night, I finished installing, what took two mornings of cable routing, a set of rock lights I picked up off of Amazon.

The first thing I did was to look under the rig and locate areas that would have the least amount of contact and try to keep the locations as uniform as possible to avoid a strange glow pattern on the ground.

I began by recycling some metal bracket plates I had lying around by bending them into an "L" and then cutting them into the right length for the location.

I mounted the rock lights using their existing mounting bolts and then sprayed the bolts to minimize corrosion:
<a href="https://ibb.co/XF69F9f"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/MPKbPby/20210209-094831.jpg" alt="20210209-094831" border="0"></a>

For the rear, I decided to drill into the tow hitch frame and mounted directly to it. Drilling into that thick metal took some time but it was worth it since it allowed me to keep the lights uniform on each side as other points were different due to the way the exhaust tip leads out of the back:
<a href="https://ibb.co/yPfDZ07"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/Sys2MNG/20210208-102100.jpg" alt="20210208-102100" border="0"></a>

Here is where I mounted in the front of the rear tire well:
<a href="https://ibb.co/k3K3wKP"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/mvJv2JP/20210208-102055.jpg" alt="20210208-102055" border="0"></a>

For the rear of the front wheel well, I found a point near one of the body mount bushings where the metal was thinner also kept the rock lights at a low profile:
<a href="https://ibb.co/GWTDKS4"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/fkvWhwz/20210211-082607.jpg" alt="20210211-082607" border="0"></a>

The front was the easiest to determine as I, once again, used a body mount bushing bracket as a base:
<a href="https://ibb.co/Xb53Pnx"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/W6zPXrv/20210211-082546.jpg" alt="20210211-082546" border="0"></a>

I used some wiring loom, in certain areas, to shield from exhaust and engine heat. Not sure how we'll they'll hold up so I'll have to check back on them in a couple of miles down the road. *I can always solder in some new cables in place should they melt.

I found a good place to mount a 3 switch panel I picked up:
<a href="https://ibb.co/8rGgbQx"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/F5c4XdY/20210210-105903.jpg" alt="20210210-105903" border="0"></a>

*The light bar and rear lights are not wired in yet as that would be for a future project.

I had to dremel out some room for clearance for these switches and so I can't go back to a stock look now but I'm pretty happy with the location and that I've got the panel to sit flush within it's location.

I spliced the switch panels illumination into an existing accessory line from my aftermarket stereo. In other words, I took apart the center console just to get this thing powered up and pretty :juggle:

After an hour, or two, of tucking cables in discrete areas of the frame, zip tying, and soldering connections together, I arrived at the the fuse box and began to connect the rock lights, switch panel, and relay onto the fuse box I mounted over the stock location:
<a href="https://ibb.co/JmJCjgB"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/CmGWKD1/20210210-233934.jpg" alt="20210210-233934" border="0"></a>

I ran into a problem at first. I connected everything together but the lights wouldn't switch on. I should have tested the damn thing before I installed it and I began to think of all the wrong things and the worst case scenario that I installed a dud...that would be a nightmare to unistall and return for a replacement but that's what it looked like I was going to do...

Before giving up, I started to play with the relay connections and cut my beautifully soldered connections in half. After that, I held the rock lights power line directly to the batteries positive terminal and it lit up!

So, I figured the lights were working just fine but there's some fault in my wiring within the fuse box, very unlikely, or the relay itself. The relays came pre-installed with wires and so I grabbed another one and took that end off to see what was going on. Behold, the manufacturer of this relay screwed up big time; the 30/85/86/87 leads where NOT arranged as shown on the diagram on top of the relay itself which meant that the power, trigger, accessory, and grounds were all leading out/in incorrectly..

After figuring out the right connections, I resoldered everything nice and clean and crossed my fingers and flipped the switch. Cha-ching!
<a href="https://ibb.co/YLSVBHZ"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/jrYjknR/20210211-010047.jpg" alt="20210211-010047" border="0"></a>

*The kit allows you to connect to the lights via bluetooth so you can change the colors, make a constant or strobe pattern, and also tune it to react with music. The color shown here is actually the white which, is kind of a disappointment, not really as white as I had seen in the picture or preferred.

I wanted to make it a solid bright white, for functionality, and not give it a car show effect. However, it's starting to *Glow on me at this point.

I want to get this to flash along with my alarm system when I lock/unlock my rig. I think that would give a nice effect but I haven't looked into this just yet. If anyone has any leads then let me know!

:rockon:

 

[Malcolm99]

Looking really nice and clean!. Wire the rocks lights into the marker light power supply so they flash with FOB lock/unlock, the power needed to run these shouldn't overload the marker light circuit but you can add that up, I guess you could use a relay and the marker + as a signal aswell if circuit overload was a concern with the combined rock lights. Ofcourse you won't be able to use the rock lights without marker lights but I'm sure you will have your lights on when you need these aswell, or just turn markers on if your working trail/road side at night. I noticed the bottom of your front coils aren't clocked as per the FSM with the end of the bottom coil facing outwards, is this a OME suggestion, not that it matters, but it is noted in the FSM for stock suspension, I know the Tundra coils are suppose to be put on the opposite way bottom coil facing inwards so?, and 2nd gen Tacos and 4th gen 4R's have them facing back, so perhaps just for consistency.

http://www.teamtoyota4x4.org/archiv...toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/sa/fsa/reas.pdf

 

[Endlessblockades]

....... I noticed the bottom of your front coils aren't clocked as per the FSM with the end of the bottom coil facing outwards, is this a OME suggestion, not that it matters, but it is noted in the FSM for stock suspension, I know the Tundra coils are suppose to be put on the opposite way bottom coil facing inwards so?, and 2nd gen Tacos and 4th gen 4R's have them facing back, so perhaps just for consistency.

Me: "Uh, be right back, gotta look at the truck for a second dear......"

 

[shawnathan9]

I noticed the bottom of your front coils aren't clocked as per the FSM with the end of the bottom coil facing outwards

Yes, it's something in the back of my mind as well.

I was under the impression that the FSM recommends this for clearance concerns with the stock UCA and at full flex (uca hitting the coil or locking into it).

I just had an alignment and so I'm not looking to redo until I look further into this.

I could just reseat the assembly, without taking it apart, and move the top position one bolt over. I'm just concerned how much it'll affect my alignment since I just had one done and everything sits well now. ��*��*��*

[MENTION=564148]Malcolm99[/MENTION]
Update: Okay, so I couldn't resist the urge and so I just ran down to rent a spring compressor, adjusted the spring seats within spec, and reinstalled them.
<a href="https://ibb.co/zH1X6MB"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/M5bcBvt/20210212-102053.jpg" alt="20210212-102053" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/s6tCMG4"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/pRnQ98T/20210212-095916.jpg" alt="20210212-095916" border="0"></a>

 

[shawnathan9]

BAMF Rock sliders

I picked up my rock slider order from Bay Area Metal Fabrications in Benecia yesterday morning. Turns out that they forgot about the powder coat request on my work order but they didn't know until I arrived after my 1.5 hr drive from the Peninsula.

On the spot, I had to decide to wait another two days or just take a refund on the powder coat and take them. Well, being a DIY kinda guy, I decided to take them and paint them myself.


BAMF sliders have a nice design to them. - I'm really liking their logo; BAD ASS Mother F@#$3R
<a href="https://ibb.co/4Kq1kxR"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/KbPKnHx/20210215-102012.jpg" alt="20210215-102012" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/b5Xw7KG"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/Xxt0VCG/20210215-102024.jpg" alt="20210215-102024" border="0"></a>

Did a quick test fit to determine where the mounting plates should be welded onto the sliders and to determine where they'll fit for good clearance of the wheel wells:
<a href="https://ibb.co/tDdFGyj"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/7K9Lf7M/20210216-083816.jpg" alt="20210216-083816" border="0"></a>

<a href="https://ibb.co/K5NjTLw"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/10sfFd6/20210216-083826.jpg" alt="20210216-083826" border="0"></a>

Just recently, I bought a welder and had been practicing how to weld various gauges of metal. So far, I still need to dial in my settings to optimize my welds and reduce bb's but I've learned to slow down and allow the puddles to penetrate the host metals to build a good weld. As far as aesthetics go, I still have a long way before any of my welds look like some instagram rainbow dime stacks:
<a href="https://ibb.co/nnffTJN"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/LJ66M7X/20210216-092155.jpg" alt="20210216-092155" border="0"></a>

<a href="https://ibb.co/GJbfPmY"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/0XdpJ54/20210216-102756.jpg" alt="20210216-102756" border="0"></a>

I started the weld job yesterday during my lunch break and then earlier this morning before I headed out to work. I packed it back in the Runner so I could do some clean up during my lunch break:
<a href="https://ibb.co/f1FF3fq"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/Wx55rZG/20210216-103124.jpg" alt="20210216-103124" border="0"></a>

*I'm debating on what kind of paint and color I should use for my rock sliders. I really like the bare steel look but rust is obviously an issue.

I'll be prepping the sliders by roughing them up, cleaning them and cleaning them again with a detergent and then isopropyl, and then some automotive primer.

I feel like a matte black is pretty much a standard.

I also have been thinking about a matching silver with my Limited trim; I'll use some skateboard paper for some additional grip on certain areas.

Not sure which way I'll go with it but I'll post an update once they're painted and on the Runner.

 

[shawnathan9]

Prep'd, primed, and painted Rock sliders

I spent a lot of time at Home Depot, this morning, contemplating what color I'll settle for the rock sliders.

I spoke to a guy working in the paint section, trying to get some feedback about the closest color to bare metal; Still couldn't get a good feel on what would really work so I ended up picking a few rattle cans of matte metallic nickel, flat black enamel, and a metallic gun metal grey.

I went home and did a few test sprays on a big cheater pipe I had sitting around and I finally settled for Gun Metal Grey.

The first stage of prep; I used some non-TSP cleaner and a scotch brite and got to work on the weld spots and scuffed up all the surfaces areas; Rinse, wash, and repeat several times:
<a href="https://ibb.co/NFmB6fP"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/tHxrMnt/20210217-140001.jpg" alt="20210217-140001" border="0"></a>

I took another look with the painted cheater bar next to my scrubbed rock sliders for a final look and definitely wanted to go with Gun Metal Grey:
<a href="https://ibb.co/5skmNfF"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/vLhp7KY/20210217-140012.jpg" alt="20210217-140012" border="0"></a>

I really would have preferred to keep it bare but I didn't want to use Penetrol, clear coat only on bare metal, or use some Chrome paint. I take one last look at how amazing they look in bare steel:
<a href="https://ibb.co/5np284X"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/YynbkQ4/20210217-140015.jpg" alt="20210217-140015" border="0"></a>

I grabbed my heat gun and warmed up the steel to provide a better adhesion surface/environment for the primer as well as the base paint and topcoat later on.

A few shake, rattle, and spray cans of primer later, I took a break and let the primer settle in:
<a href="https://ibb.co/sRz8vyJ"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/YQwH7pT/20210217-155542.jpg" alt="20210217-155542" border="0"></a>

I took a deep breath and hoped that the Gun Metal will look as good on the rock sliders as it did on the cheater pipe and went to work.

A couple of coats later, I stood back and took it all in, and was totally satisfied that I went with this color instead of a matte black
<a href="https://ibb.co/Lxskpkg"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/N9GVYVN/20210217-161156.jpg" alt="20210217-161156" border="0"></a>

I went the extra step and added a matte topcoat/clear to protect the paint a bit further. I'm glad I went with a matte for the topcoat as I think that if it were glossy then I wouldn't have acheived the look I wanted:
<a href="https://ibb.co/ZYT3cdD"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/CM0qVBG/20210217-161206.jpg" alt="20210217-161206" border="0"></a>

I'm going to let these settle overnight and cure. My plan for tomorrow is to weld these guys on and use the matte black enamel to color over frame and mounting plate after the weld job's completed.

:flamethrwoer2:

 

[shawnathan9]

Welded on Rock sliders

The paint still feels like it's not 100% cured but enough to handle it now.

So, the BAMF rock sliders had some unwelded seams, on the inner channel that were not covered by the primer or paint. In retrospect, I should have added a weld there because the area appears to be prone for water accumulation since the drain holes were not close enough to it

I either strip, weld, and repaint this area or I McGyver it with some gasket sealer. I chose the later:
<a href="https://ibb.co/7RFpqXW"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/0F39xcM/20210218-105701.jpg" alt="20210218-105701" border="0"></a>

It's in a discrete area not visible when installed so I did some backyard repairs there. I really think it's a flaw that would've else wise caused rust in the future.

After that, I wire brushed, to bare metal, both the area of the frame and the outer areas of the mount plates; Tack welded the slider in a position that would provide the most wheel clearance:
<a href="https://ibb.co/q0SSKsM"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/cbBB0Fc/20210218-092853.jpg" alt="20210218-092853" border="0"></a>

And through the wizardry of welding, on goes the them Sliders, with a kick!
<a href="https://ibb.co/44zHjzZ"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/j3mSLmv/20210218-104510.jpg" alt="20210218-104510" border="0"></a>

<a href="https://ibb.co/RpG5BdD"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/6Rcd1LW/20210218-145729.jpg" alt="20210218-145729" border="0"></a>

<a href="https://ibb.co/6wvwdkP"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/fF8Fcsp/20210218-145711.jpg" alt="20210218-145711" border="0"></a>

I should have checked door clearance when test fitting as, after I painted over the welds, I attempted to open my rear door and noticed that they wouldn't open...



It appears that because I have Limitied trim that the flare on the bottom of the rear doors would hit the sliders that tilt 10 degrees upward.

So I did what anyone who just welded on some sliders would do and busted out my trusty dremel and shaved of a few centimeters of fender flare

It was a unnoticeable trim that worked out perfectly.
<a href="https://ibb.co/vBBTrfs"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/cvvZpRb/20210218-145734.jpg" alt="20210218-145734" border="0"></a>

Can I get a Hell yeah!?!? The Matte Metallic Gun Metal gray has a sheen that works perfectly with my silver cladding. :cheers:


I saved $200 just by painting them myself and about $300 for the prep and weld work I did on my own. That itself pays for the welder I picked up.

Now I've got to start hunting for some metal scraps and pipes to eventually craft a roof rack together. :guitar2:

 

[shawnathan9]

Welded on Eimkeith PCK

I've had these sitting around for a while and decided that my welding skills are decent enough to create a weld good enough, good penetration, to work on some structural welds.

So, I pulled out my Eimkeith PCK that have been sitting on my shelf for the past 2 months.

The Panhard bar was really easy to unbolt and remove; began to test fit the parts and everything looked good:
<a href="https://ibb.co/xfgJ0tf"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/YydpMFy/20210219-102905.jpg" alt="20210219-102905" border="0"></a>

Still, I feel that my welds could use some work so I not only welded the outer seams but also the inner seams of the PCK so as to ensure that the gaps were closed; Didn't want to crawl into that space to show you the inner welds but here's the right side: I got a little ugly in the middle but I'll settle since I had the other side covered as well:
<a href="https://ibb.co/NFMKMjH"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/51PLP8f/20210220-111013.jpg" alt="20210220-111013" border="0"></a>

The driver side, I took a second pass on the outside and just one pass on the inner end of the bracket; The welds look thick but they did penetrate well:
<a href="https://ibb.co/PWhYjt9"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/fNpSFQn/20210220-110959.jpg" alt="20210220-110959" border="0"></a>

I'll be doing spot checks every gas fill to see how well my welds hold but I'm confident enough about it. The rear end does feel much for static and feels really good when taking corners. I just hit the freeway and it doesn't feel squirrely, at the rear, when driving fast. :car:

I can't believe I waited this long to put them on. What a difference!