Just curiosity getting to me. Is Ravenol 5w-30 Made in Germany, safe to use in my 140k 2009 4Runner? It looks like all the viscosity tests and additives fall within the right tolerances that I could find for SAE gen 2 approved oils but I’m guessing since it’s not made in the US it doesn’t have this certification? If anyone has experienced good or bad I’d like to hear it. I may be over thinking it since I have always used mobil oils.
Is ravenol 5w-30 safe in my 09 4Runner
- Thread starter Bleu62
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triethylborane
Member
Never used it but I see it pop up on euro part websites from time to time. It also is listed, assuming this is the 5w30 VMP, a PAO, by Mercedes as 229.31 compliant, so I could run it in the MB bluetech as the specification requires low ash content due to the particulate filter.
It also lists API SN.
5W-30 Motor Oil - Ravenol VMP - VW 504 00 - VW 507 00 - MB 229.51 - Longlife-04 (LL-04)
I dont know much about it other than that, so I cannot comment on content analysis. Its likely fine to use in the V6/8 4runner engine but I would not expect anything beyond the same result as using synthetic on the WalMart shelves, except for spending more.
It also lists API SN.
5W-30 Motor Oil - Ravenol VMP - VW 504 00 - VW 507 00 - MB 229.51 - Longlife-04 (LL-04)
I dont know much about it other than that, so I cannot comment on content analysis. Its likely fine to use in the V6/8 4runner engine but I would not expect anything beyond the same result as using synthetic on the WalMart shelves, except for spending more.
Flesh Eater
Member
Triethylborane, thanks for that input. I have a load of this oil for reasons
I wouldn’t hesitate to use it in my 3FE but the tighter tolerance for these 1GR-FE engines had me second guessing. I may try spreading it out half and half just to use it up I don’t know if I’m brave enough to just go full Ravenol. You never go full Ravenol
I wouldn’t hesitate to use it in my 3FE but the tighter tolerance for these 1GR-FE engines had me second guessing. I may try spreading it out half and half just to use it up I don’t know if I’m brave enough to just go full Ravenol. You never go full Ravenol
firebirdguy
Member
if its API SN rated its perfectly fine to use in a 4th gen 4runner or any american engine that calls for 5/30. it meets the same specs as any other SN rated oil & is likely of high quality. do a search for oil analysis done on it or check the manufacturers msds if you are concerned with additives. if you already have it, use it.
rdruss
Senior Member
Yes, the API designation will tell you whether it's suitable for your vehicle.
triethylborane
Member
Hah, full ravenol. The tolerances might be "tight" but these engines, both V8 and V6, are not turbocharged, direct injected, high rpm or have inborn issues, such as poor bearing design, that require a specific oil outside of the weight recommended by Toyota for a given climate. The tolerances, from what I have seen on the service manual spec sheets, are rather typical of modern engine design. Ive never done an oil analysis on my 4runner, but from those I have read from other forum members the engines are not finnicky and a quality synthetic will do the trick.
Flesh Eater
Member
I don’t know man. I ran Mobil 1 in my 5.3l from 40,000 miles to 100,000 miles, 3,000 mile interval changes and WIX filters. It developed a loud tick (lifter/cam) at 100,000. I was gearing up to do a full DOD/AFM delete (new cam, lifters, oil pump). Then said I’ll try Amsoil. Ran one or two engine flushes through and switched to Signature 5w30.
All better now.
I’ve also flushed and ran Amsoil in an engine and then tore it down. Unbelievable how clean and well lubed the internals are.
With the 2nd best protection next to the new Quaker State (I still choose Amsoil), Amsoil in everything for me now. It’s even comparable in price anymore.
Well, M1 has been used I millions if vehicles and even Mercedes recommends it. I don't use it anymore but I have for probably 40K without any issues. I have also used Castrol a lot too. Nowadays, I use Liquid Moly in the Merc and Amsoil Signature in the 4R. The Merc has an oil capacity of almost 10 quarts so quite honestly, it can use any oil (like the 4R) and be okay. They are both easy on oil. Maybe eventually, I'll just use Amsoil Signature in everything.
firebirdguy
Member
just curious, but why are you doing oil changes at 3000 miles on a full synthetic oil?
Good question. I have read that it actually takes a little while for the oil to actually be the best and it is not on day 1. It takes maybe 1K or so (just what I read...never tested it by doing oil analysis at 1K vs 5K vs 10K) It depends on your engine (turbos and high-revving engines are harder on oil) but 3K on a good synthetic is way too low. Even 5K is the minimum recommended by oil change places on REGULAR dino oil.
As for me, my engine capacities are so big that I go 8K-10K and the oils still have good life left with few contaminants or breakdown. My Mercedes tech says he recommends (with 9.5 quarts of good synthetic in that 4.7L) at least 10K. If you do a ton of city driving, that should be less but I don't. I also like not using/wasting so much oil but with 200K on the 4R and 100K on the Merc with zero issues and excellent post-drain oil quality, my method is right for these vehicles.
As for me, my engine capacities are so big that I go 8K-10K and the oils still have good life left with few contaminants or breakdown. My Mercedes tech says he recommends (with 9.5 quarts of good synthetic in that 4.7L) at least 10K. If you do a ton of city driving, that should be less but I don't. I also like not using/wasting so much oil but with 200K on the 4R and 100K on the Merc with zero issues and excellent post-drain oil quality, my method is right for these vehicles.
Flesh Eater
Member
3,000 miles took about 6-7 months, sometimes longer to get in. Lots of idling loading firewood and stuff.
I’m going to Amsoil XL and will do 12,000 miles intervals. Lots of Blackstone reports and other evidence to support their quality.
Guess I never trusted Mobil1. It is a GMT900 with DOD/AFM so wanted to tread lightly.
firebirdguy
Member
oil change intervals arent really time related, oil doesnt go bad after 6-7 months or even 1-2 years. its miles/usage that wears out oil. idling is nt the best for the engien but doesnt hurt the oil if the engine is fully warmed up to burn off condensation.
just curious why the super short intervals, toytoa even says 5000 miles for changes on regular dino oil & evenj then when the engine is in good condition most analysis show there is still lots of life left in the oil.
why dont you trust mobil1? is there a legitimate proven reason why not or just something you heard or subjective personal opinion? its one of the better off the shelf oils out there & always shows very good quality oil analysis at far above 3000-5000 miles & has excellent additive packs. i realize some people judge oils on non scientific reasons but its a fact that any name brand oil, especially synthetics can go a lot longer than 3000 miles. im not suggesting an certain brand is good or bad, just that 3000 miles is overkill for any modern engine in good running condition.
firebirdguy
Member
not a real synthetic? based on the API definitions today a group 3 oil is considered synthetic since its refining processing removes the impurities of group 1 & 2 crude oils & makes the molecules more uniform than standard group1 or 2 oil. many of the cheaper synthetics are group 3 & are very good oils with good additives.
but higher end oils use group 4 PAO base stock oil or a mix of group 3 & 4 that is definitely considered full synthetic & mobil1 & amsoil are a couple brands that are group 4 based oils. true group 5 oil is VERY expensive & not many if any brands out there today are true 100% group 5.
there are different groups or levels of synthetics, but for the most part group 3 synthetics are considered "real" synthetic, the group 4 are a step above that & most higher end oils are a mix of 3 & 4.
Flesh Eater
Member
I gave enough reasons above. Get over it.
Amsoil offers more protection than Mobil 1. Mobil 1 religious change intervals and engine trouble that Amsoil fixed. Why do you think I don’t like Mobil 1?
Signature is ranked #2 in protection, Mobil1 is #17. So I will probably just stick with Signature and do the 25,000 mile intervals.
540 RAT - Tech Facts, NOT Myths
Flesh Eater
Member
For the OP:
5. 0W30 Ravenol VSW, USVO (Ultra Strong Viscosity Oil), synthetic = 135,395 psi
This low friction motor oil has an ACEA C3 certification, and is for passenger car gasoline or diesel engines with or without turbocharging or direct injection. This very impressive motor oil is made in Germany, and was tested in early 2021.
The psi value of this oil, which came from testing it at the normal operating test temperature of 230*F, put it in the AMAZING Wear Protection Category. And I also went on to test this oil at the much higher temperature of 275*F. At that elevated temperature, any hotter and thinner oil is expected to experience a drop in Wear Protection Capability. This oil had only a small 4% drop in capability. But, even at that elevated temperature, it produced an impressive 129,754 psi, which put this much hotter and thinner oil in the FANTASTIC Wear Protection Category.
I also tested this oil to find out its onset of thermal breakdown, which was a somewhat disappointing 265*F. NOTE: Motor oils do NOT stop working when they exceed the onset of thermal breakdown point. They just begin to slowly deteriorate.
-540Rat
5. 0W30 Ravenol VSW, USVO (Ultra Strong Viscosity Oil), synthetic = 135,395 psi
This low friction motor oil has an ACEA C3 certification, and is for passenger car gasoline or diesel engines with or without turbocharging or direct injection. This very impressive motor oil is made in Germany, and was tested in early 2021.
The psi value of this oil, which came from testing it at the normal operating test temperature of 230*F, put it in the AMAZING Wear Protection Category. And I also went on to test this oil at the much higher temperature of 275*F. At that elevated temperature, any hotter and thinner oil is expected to experience a drop in Wear Protection Capability. This oil had only a small 4% drop in capability. But, even at that elevated temperature, it produced an impressive 129,754 psi, which put this much hotter and thinner oil in the FANTASTIC Wear Protection Category.
I also tested this oil to find out its onset of thermal breakdown, which was a somewhat disappointing 265*F. NOTE: Motor oils do NOT stop working when they exceed the onset of thermal breakdown point. They just begin to slowly deteriorate.
-540Rat
AuSeeker
Elite Member
Thanks for the link to 540 Rat's blog!!
I looked high and low for the ranking for the motor oil I use to no avail, so I then went back to the top because I skipped the first few knowing full well the oil I use wouldn't be in the top 10, imagine my surprise that the oil I use was NUMBER 1 !!!!!!
I never would have thought that the new Quakerstate Full Synthetic would be rank close to the top, much less number 1 .
SurferUK
Member
And the amazing Toyota elixir...68th
68. 0W20 Toyota Motor Oil, API SN, synthetic = 101,460 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD
This oil was tested Spring 2016.
