I have a 2005 SR5 4WD I just bought. I have 3-4 lights on. The VSC, TSC, check engine and wheel flat sensor thing (not sure what it's called and not sure if the lights are connected in any way) Does anyone have a fix or a link to a thread with a fix? I tried following a Youtube tutorial regarding a zero calibration reprogramming of some sort but couldn't even get the ABS light to flash for me saying it was in calibration mode. Any help is appreciated.
Issues with TSC and VSC and check engine
- Thread starter himeeto69
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y=mx+b
New member
CEL means you have a code stored, you need to scan with a code reader. VSC and TRAC will come on if you have the CEL, since the computer knows it can't really trust itself to make VSC/TRAC decisions if theres something else wrong.
The flat wheel is TPMS: Solid means low pressure, flashing means bad sensor or sensor communication. You can replace the valve stems with the TPMS stems for like $40 a piece from RockAuto. Another option would be to just delete the system and check tire pressures regularly. There is a thread for the TPMS delete, you'll have to search for it
Last edited:
Terminator03
New member
To expand on what the previous guy said, you need to use a code reader to find out what code is being thrown that caused the CEL. Until you correct that, you can’t clear the VSC/TRAC light. As for the TPMS light, just bypass that, unless you are the type that never checks tire pressure, and needs a light to tell you that you have a tire getting low. At this age, the batteries are likely shot in the sensors, so you may end up replacing all 5 sensors (batteries can’t be replaced), which the system needs to get readings from, and they all need to be programmed so the computer can recognize them, which can get pricey depending on who does it. There are helpful threads if you search here that tell you how to easily disable the TPMS and make the light go out. One of the methods requires cutting a wire in a plug behind the glovebox, but there is another one, which I chose, that only needs a small jumper for that plug. I preferred that method since it is easily reversible should you decide you need/want that system to function again. When I bought new wheels and larger tire, I just used regular rubber stems instead of spending the extra couple hundred for new sensors and programming. I grew up without nanny controls though, so I’m used to maintaining things like tire pressure without a light to tell me to.
I have an ‘04 Sport with the same issues. At least in my case the TPMS issue was a dry rotted spare tire that couldn’t hold air. I’m thinking my check engine light is a bad oxygen sensor since I have pulled the code but just get a very generic, could be just about anything, description of what the code could be, but I haven’t figured out an easy/inexpensive way to check the individual oxygen sensors to figure out which, if any, is/are bad. As for the ABS/traction control lights, there is a temporary fix involving sticking the ends of a paper clip into certain holes in the sensor reader plug, but I am enjoying the rear wheel drive without the big brother traction control intervention putting the brakes (literally) on reliving my childhood Dukes of Hazzard dreams too much to fix it (again). But I would definitely be interested in knowing the cause of the ABS/traction control issue.
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I checked the code reader and it pulled a P0606. A PCM processor fault. What can I do about this without taking it to dealer?
So I took my V8 SR5 4runner to an import guy in town. He hooked it up to his "Toyota machine", pulled a butt load of codes. Reset those. Did a zero point calibration and went to go drive it after the lights shut off to go calibrate it. The lights came back on and he hooked the thing back up and he pulled the codes, P0606, C1210 and C1336. Anyone know any good fixes? I'm slowly fixing stuff but this one is killing me.
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Went in to get my keys programmed and zero point calibration done and the Toyota dealer hooked up their scanner to it and he said the codes were regarding too much exhaust leaking. I just replaced the muffler 2 days ago. They said there was an open recall on the ecm that they needed to program. They programmed keys and cleared the codes but no zero point calibration. They sent me on my way. Said if the lights come back on, they can look further into it. Left dealer and codes came back on within 5-8 mins. Do I just replace the ECM?
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MikeinNH67
Senior Member
I wouldn't, they don't fail very often and you'll have to have someone reprogram the new/used one. Search that code, I noticed multiple issues that could cause that when I searched it recently because I was curious what they meant.
Otherwise I think you'd be better off finding an independent mechanic that is a good troubleshooter like youtuber South Main Auto. You'll save yourself money in the long run. Finding that guy is the tough part.
Otherwise I think you'd be better off finding an independent mechanic that is a good troubleshooter like youtuber South Main Auto. You'll save yourself money in the long run. Finding that guy is the tough part.
This is the sheet that the mechanic gave me. It had all of the codes on thr bottom of the paragraph after he cleared all of the original codes. After I took it to him, that's when I took it to the local Toyota dealership. They cleared rhe codes then said if they come back on, let us know and we can look deeper into it at $140/hr after just charging me $70 to program my keys. We have limited options for mechanics let alone good troubleshooting mechanics. Live in a town with maybe 10 mechanics shops that deal almost exclusively with ford & chevy's. Farming communities.
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This is my vote as well. I've seen all kinds of oddness caused by a battery in poor condition.
I'll take a look. The posts are really clean but I don't know about the battery itself. It seems to be holding a charge and starts strong. Once they went in and cleared all the codes, the ones that came back were the last 3 on the list.
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I actually put a new battery in. Lights came back on.
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