Ivew still got a basic "no start"

[ConstantFix]

Ive done everything. Replaced the old alternator with the new cs144. Had that working fine. Had my starter tested and it was no good. Replaced my starter with one from autozone. Still no start. I have two batteries wired in parallel so not getting power isnt the probleml. Ive redone all the wiring between the alternator and battery, between both batteries, from the fuse bbox to the battery, and from the starter to the battery. Its all 4 Guage. Should be 2 guGe but 4 is what i have. Spare me the " check your fuses" and the " check for corrosion" i also 4 guaged the ground from the engine to the firewall as well...im at my witts end. And out of money lol itnfirst wouldnkt start when i hooked my alternTor and starter up backwards. Blew the 100a fuse. Replaced that with the same fuse.

 

[shadow247]

Wow dude, please learn how to form complete sentences and use punctuation. We won't beat you up for not spelling correctly, but if your post is one long run-on sentence we really can't help you.

Does it turn over? Or just fail to start? I read the last post you made and didn't see anything about that.

 

[Stick Figure]

So you gave us a lot of info except what it does when you try to start it. you have a no crank situation or cranks but won't fire?

 

[ConstantFix]

sorry mates its just really pissing me the frig off. ok. when i go to start the car, a few of the dash lights are dim. odd. all i hear when the key is turned is the realy click and stop. but it sounds like the starter makes a click too, hard to tell from the drivers seat.

 

[ConstantFix]

i suppose its a no crank situation. are there any other grounds i should know about? besides the main power line running to the starter, there is a single little clip in style of a plug. is this the ground? it is a black wire so im thinking it is.

 

[shadow247]

The starter is grounded through the engine block. The little black wire is the solenoid power wire. It should be HOT when the key is turned past "RUN" to the "START" position. Put a test light to the terminal the black wire connects to and have someone turn the key to "START" if you don't get any power then you have an issue. First thing would be to replace the starter relay if you have no power at the solenoid when the key is in "START" position. It's a good bet the relay is fried if you aren't even getting the engine to turn over.

 

[ConstantFix]

thanks alot shadow.
that was a previous problem. i ran with a simple push button wired into where my starter relay was because i was to cheap to buy another realy. a few weeks ago i finally did purchase a new relay and everything worked perfectly. i also went back to my push button start to make sure it wasnt another bad relay

 

[shadow247]

If you short the starter solenoid to the main power wire on the starter does it turn over?

 

[ConstantFix]

Im not exactly sure how to do that. Think you could explain how too? Ive got a 2.7 so the starter is relatively east to remove if i need to..

 

[Stick Figure]

Your starter should look similar to this. the 12mm head nut holds your constant power from your battery. The black spade terminal next to it is the trigger to the starter. if you tap power from the positive battery terminal (or the power lead next to it) The starter should engage and crank the engine. If you have the key in the run position it should actually start the truck. This would determine if the starter is good or not.

Make sure the stock wiring to the spade terminal is disconnected before jumping it. If something is shorted you don't want to cause more problems if there is a problem with that wire.

 

[ConstantFix]

Ya thats my starter. Thank you so much for explaining thT to me mate. I really appreciate that. Just to clarify i take a separate positive lead off the battery and stick it to that black terminal, thus should crank the engine?

 

[Stick Figure]

either from the battery or from the constant power lead right next to it. Just depends what you can do safely.

 

[ConstantFix]

Alright thank you. Ill try that. Again, ip appreciTe your help. Shadow too.

 

[ConstantFix]

So i tried that mate. No go. It just makes a simple little click inside thr starter. Not a normal click like it does when the battery is low. Its more like the click of a relay, that loud. Im. So. Confused.

 

[nissanh]

Starter relay is bad. You got it from Autozone!

Inside the starter there is an electromagnet. When you give 12V to that black spade terminal, it will magnetize the relay unit (right on top of the starter). It will pull a plunger with the magnetic force and strikes two copper plates making the clicking sound. This plunger and copper contacts pass the current to the starter motor to crank the engine.

See the following images
First image : plunger and the two contacts. Plunger slides into that center hole.
Second image: new plunger and new contacts
Third image: bad contacts.

Since you have a new starter, take it back to autozone to check it out. IF it works, your main battery supply to the starter with the thick wire is not conencted to the battery

 

[ConstantFix]

Funny you say that odds are my starter is junk. I asked the guy to test it too make sure but he assured me that it was 100 % perfect. Itndid have the cert. tag and everything, but still, its remanufactured. But i assure you that the 4 guage wire has power from the battery, not only do i have confidence in my wiring work, but i also tested it lol. Point being that i asked the Dik to test it and he wouldnt. Now i got a "new" junk starter. Anyway, thanks. Ill take it back and shove it in his face. Kinda ****ty, ive spent alot of money in autozone and was a bit of a loyal customer..

 

[nissanh]

How about the ground to the engine?

Remember this, most toyota items/parts can be repaired. I bet you had bad contacts in your old starter and you got a remanufactured starter and ran into all these trouble. All you should have done is clean inside the solenoid and install a new contact kit for like $10.

When ever possible I buy parts from NAPA. Their parts are expensive, but they are in high quality. At autozone, if the part is made in Japan or may be in China, I will buy it. Autozone guy recently tried to sell me a single ground spark plugs....

 

[downpour11]

A lot of people who work at auto zone don't know much. When I replaced my last CV, I went in and asked for a CV axle for a 96 4runner and their response was "2 wheel drive or 4 wheel drive?" ........ REALLY?!?!?

 

[ConstantFix]

How about the ground to the engine?

Remember this, most toyota items/parts can be repaired. I bet you had bad contacts in your old starter and you got a remanufactured starter and ran into all these trouble. All you should have done is clean inside the solenoid and install a new contact kit for like $10.

When ever possible I buy parts from NAPA. Their parts are expensive, but they are in high quality. At autozone, if the part is made in Japan or may be in China, I will buy it. Autozone guy recently tried to sell me a single ground spark plugs....

I did the contacts about a month or more before i ran into troubles. The starter worked fine. Got the contacts fron the dealer. And as for a ground the only one i know of is the one ontop the valve cover that goes straight to the firewall. But that one ive replaced with 4 guage too a whle ago and never game me troubles.

 

[Track34]

A lot of people who work at auto zone don't know much. When I replaced my last CV, I went in and asked for a CV axle for a 96 4runner and their response was "2 wheel drive or 4 wheel drive?" ........ REALLY?!?!?

That is a fair question. A Santa Fe has CV's in the front and the back if it is an AWD. Why would anyone at a parts store memorize whether or not a 4runner has CV's in the back or not?