Jake's '99 Limited "Build" Thread

[Team_Jake]

Welcome to my "build" thread, or what I hope to soon be an actual build.
This is my 1999 4Runner Limited, 4x4, with the factory e-locker.

MODIFICATIONS

Engine/Drivetrain:
5-speed swap while retaining Multi-Mode (PAGE 5 / POST 62)
Marlin Crawler Heavy Duty Clutch Kit
Low Range Off Road 1.25" Driveshaft Spacer (P/N: TDT-DS)

Axles:
Toytec 1" Diff Drop
Aisin Manual Locking Hubs (PAGE 2 / POST 28)

Front Suspension: (PAGE 1 / POST 2)
Icon 2.5" Extended Travel Coilovers with CDCVs
JBA Upper Control Arms
Energy Suspension Lower Control Arm Bushings (P/N: 8.3115G)
Energy Suspension Steering Rack Bushings (P/N: 8.10101G-1, only at Wheeler’s Offroad)
Energy Suspension Sway Bar Bushings (P/N: 8.5141G)
MStudt Double Disconnecting Sway Bar Links

Rear Suspension: (PAGE 1 / POST 2)
Icon 2.0" Aluminum Shocks
OME 2890 Springs
Energy Suspension Sway Bar Bushings (P/N: 8.5142G)
MStudt Sway Bar Links
Eimkeith Panhard Correction Kit

Wheels/Tires:
295/75R16 BFGoodrich KO2s (PAGE 2 / POST 19)
VTX Rebel Wheels, 16x8, -12mm Offset, Gunmetal (PAGE 1 / POST 10)

Brakes:
Wheeler's Offroad Stainless Steel Brake Lines (both front and rear)
13WL Tundra Brakes Upgrade (PAGE 4 / POST 51)

Armor:
Custom Front Bumper (PAGE 3 / POST 42)
Shrockworks Sliders (PAGE 6 / POST 83)
Nguyen Works Rear Bumper with Driver Side Swing-Out (PAGE 7 / POST 95)

Recovery:
Warn M8000s Winch
Rugged Ridge Aluminum Hawse Fairlead

Lighting:
PIAA 10704 Night Tech headlight bulbs
Baja Designs Squadron Sports (Round) - Wide Cornering, Amber

Exterior:
Taco Whip Mod
OEM Bug Deflector (Toyota P/N: PT427-89011)
Eimkeith Fuel Tank Relocation Mount (PAGE 7 / POST 102)

Interior:
Marlin Crawler Short Throw Shifter (PAGE 6 / POST 79)
UltraGauge MX


MAINTENANCE:
~148,000 miles -- Timing Belt, Waterpump, Thermostat, Belts
~150,000 miles -- New Spark Plugs/Wires
~169,000 miles -- New Fuel Filter
~170,000 miles -- Cleaned/Re-Manufactured Fuel Injectors (WitchHunter)
~170,000 miles -- Lower Ball Joints Replacement (OEM)
~175,000 miles -- New Radiator (Denso) & Hoses (OEM)
~175,000 miles -- Transfer Case Gear Oil Change (Valvoline 75W-90)
~175,000 miles -- Rear Differential Gear Oil Change (Valvoline 80W-90)
~178,200 miles -- Complete Cylinder Head Job (complete head gasket kit by Fel-Pro) including replacing the passenger side cylinder head, Resurface Heads, Head Gaskets
~178,200 miles -- Valve Job with new Valve Stem Seals, Valve Cover Gaskets, Intake Gaskets, Spark Plugs, Oil Change, and Radiator fluid (Toyota Red)
~179,200 miles -- Oil Change (Mobil1 Extended Performance Full Synthetic 5W-30, Mobil1 Filter)
~179,000 miles -- Front Differential Gear Oil Change (Valvoline 75W-90)
~184,200 miles -- Oil Change (Mobil1 Extended Performance Full Synthetic 5W-30, Mobil1 Filter)
~185,200 miles -- Replaced Alternator (Refurbished OEM)
~188,150 miles -- Transfer Case Gear Oil Change (Redline 75W-90 GL-5)
~188,150 miles -- Installed R150F Transmission (Rebuilt by Marlin Crawler)
~189,400 miles -- Manual Transmission Gear Oil Change (Redline MT-90 GL-4)
~189,400 miles -- Oil Change (Mobil1 Extended Performance Full Synthetic 5W-30, Mobil1 Filter)
~191,800 miles -- Replace Passenger-Side Rear Axle Seal (OEM)
~191,800 miles -- Rear Differential Gear Oil Change (Valvoline 80W-90)
~194,500 miles -- Oil Change (Mobil1 Extended Performance Full Synthetic 5W-30, Mobil1 Filter)
~195,600 miles -- Power Steering Fluid Flush (Valvoline ATF Longlife + Lucas Oil Power Steering Stop Leak)
~197,350 miles -- Lower Ball Joints Replacement (OEM)
~197,350 miles -- Oil Change (Mobil1 Extended Performance High Mileage Full Synthetic 5W-30, K&N Filter)
~201,400 miles -- Replace Driver-Side Rear Axle Seal (OEM)
~201,400 miles -- Rear Differential Gear Oil Change (Castrol 80W-90)

Current Mileage:
~202,500 miles


NOTABLE COMPLETED TRAILS

• Gold Mountain, Big Bear, California (4x) -- September 3rd 2018, October 6th 2019, May 16th 2020, September 6th 2020
• Dishpan Springs, Big Bear, California (backwards) -- October 6th 2018
• The Squeeze (3N07A), Big Bear, California -- October 5th 2019
• Pinyon Mountain Trail, Anza Borrego Desert State Park, California -- June 6th 2020
• Heartbreak Ridge, Big Bear, California -- September 5th 2020

Thanks for checking out my thread. If you have any questions I'd be very happy to answer.

 

[Team_Jake]

First Major Upgrade - Suspension

I purchased my 4Runner from Craigslist in Downtown San Diego in February 2013 for $8500. It had 106,000 miles and it was very well maintained. The only things wrong with it was a torn seat and an antenna motor which didn't work.

Shortly after I purchased it, I installed new tires, clipped the antenna motor wires, repaired the seat, and removed the running boards. This picture was taken roughly one year after I purchased it:

ON TO THE FIRST MAJOR UPGRADE...

I believe the proper way to start a build is with a solid foundation. I believe the suspension is key before most other things. I want to add larger tires, but before I do get larger tires I want to get proper clearance with the bumpers and the firewall, but big steal bumpers means a lot of added weight. That weight won't be fun to lug around on stock suspension. So with that, I decided to tackle the suspension first.

What I Bought:

Icon 2.5" Extended Travel Coilovers with CDCVs
JBA Upper Control Arms
New OEM Lower Ball Joints
Energy Suspension Lower Control Arm Bushings
Energy Suspension Steering Rack Bushings
Wheeler's Offroad Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Toytec 1" Diff Drop
Icon 2.0" Aluminum Shocks
OME 2890 Springs
Eimkeith Panhard Correction Kit (PCK)

*Toytec panhard drop bracket pictured, I decided to purchase the PCK later on

Why did I choose this setup?

With close proximity to Baja and desert landscapes, I knew I wanted to have a high volume of oil running through the shocks to handle higher speed desert terrain. I decided to go with the Icon 2.5" extended travel coilovers with CDCVs.

I chose JBA Upper Control Arms because I liked the idea of a replaceable ball joint. The ball joint is greasable and has fantastic articulation.

I decided to go with Icon 2.0" shocks in the rear, only because I am not carrying much weight in the rear. I am toying with the idea of outboarding the shocks in the rear later down the road, so these shocks will work for the time being. These shocks will likely be replaced in the near future.

I chose OME 2890 springs similarly because I am not carrying much weight. The spring rate is low so they will be soft but are a little bigger to give my vehicle a little rake.

I figured I would replace other suspension components while I was taking things apart. Brake lines, bushings, lower ball joints, you get the picture...

 

[Team_Jake]

The Process

I encountered trouble in the first 5 minutes when I couldn't get the tie rod ends pressed out. I rented a ball joint press from AutoZone, but none of those fit on the tie rod ends. After a couple failed attempts, I bought a press from O'Reilly's that worked perfectly. This is the one that worked:

A couple big problems came with the Energy Suspension LCA bushings. First off, one of my cams was nearly impossible to get out. After about an hour of hammering I was finally able to get it out. The problem though was I bent the cam so much from the hammering it was no longer good, so I went to my local Toyota dealer to buy a new one. When I pressed out the bushing from the LCAs, one of the washers lips bent pretty badly. When I put the Energy Suspension Bushing on, the washer would not press back on to the sleeve because the lip was bent so bad. I first tried welding it on but it would not hold when I tried installing the LCAs back onto the frame of the vehicle. The right way to do it was to get a good bushing washer. A new bushing from Toyota cost ~$60 (sucks!!) but I was able to get the washer off the bushing and onto the Energy Suspension bushings without a problem. Honestly I had so much headache with the LCA bushings if I were to do it again I would've just left mine alone. I'm going to guess 40% of my time on this suspension job spent was on the LCA bushings alone. Unless you really need them changed, I suggest you leave them alone.

Lift Intstalled

After the lift was installed, my driver's side front fender was ~5/8" lower than my passenger side. There was quite a bit of rake so I raised the coil to make it all level. I then took it to Firestone to get an alignment.

I love the ride, it feels slightly better than factory on-road and smooth off-road, especially on the higher-frequency-washboard-type roads. It's a little stiff, but I noticed when I packed it full of camping equipment and people it rides much better than when it's just me. I know the ride quality will get better once I start adding some weight to it.

There is still a little rake, if I knew I wasn't going to add weight to it in the future I probably would have gone with the OME 2906 springs instead of the 2890s.

 

[dcT4r808]

Very nice 4runner and a great start to your build! Looking forward to seeing the transformation.

 

[Team_Jake]

A couple small updates:

I installed an UltraGauge a few weeks ago, I've been very happy with it.

I noticed my coolant temperature was a little high (it would run between 201F to 205F when warm). I did a little research and found that the instruction video I followed when I did my timing belt 18 months ago said to install the thermostat with the jiggle-valve in the 12 o'clock position (should be the 6 o'clock position). I made the change and now it runs between 190F and 194F when warm.

I also installed new headlight bulbs, I ordered PIAA 10704 Night Techs.

They are exactly what I want. Bright, not too bright, long lasting, and most importantly, NOT blue.

 

[hhackmann]

Nice looking build.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

A '99 Limited with an elocker?! That's badass! Can't beat the AWD +locker [emoji1598]
I love how clean it is man. Actually, I love everything about it. Great base to start with, and great upgrade choices so far [emoji1360]

 

[Team_Jake]

Nice looking build.

A '99 Limited with an elocker?! That's badass! Can't beat the AWD +locker [emoji1598]
I love how clean it is man. Actually, I love everything about it. Great base to start with, and great upgrade choices so far [emoji1360]

Thanks! Yeah I'm stoked to have the multi-mode with the e-locker! Maybe someday I'll swap a 5-speed and keep the multi-mode, but that's way above my level of expertise at the moment.

 

[Team_Jake]

Just a couple little updates, some good news and some bad news.

First, the bad news:

I'm pretty sure I have a head gasket leak. All the symptoms are pointing towards it (my symptoms are identical to what [MENTION=138943]thegipper[/MENTION] was experiencing):

• My 4Runner will run rough and misfire a little during cold starts for about 5 seconds then run perfect
• I'm loosing coolant at a very slow rate (have to top off my reservoir about once every 2 months) and can't find evidence of an external leak anywhere
• And a couple weeks ago I left my 4Runner parked for over 48 hours and when I started it it blew whitish smoke.

If there is any light to the situation I still have good compression and I can't find any trace of coolant leaking into my oil, and my engine still runs consistently between 190°F and 194°F. I have yet to confirm, I'll need to perform a leak-down test just to be sure but the symptoms started around 10 months ago and seems to be getting slightly worse.

If my head gasket is leaking, I'll likely just take it in and have a local shop fix it or do a swap. I'd fix it myself but time is a bigger enemy for me than money at the moment. I just want to get it fixed the right way before it leads to any major complications, especially since this is my DD.

 

[Team_Jake]

Now the good news!

Some new (and much needed) upgrades will soon be installed. I currently have sitting in my garage:

• MStudt's sway bar links (front discos, rear standard)
• Energy Suspension sway bar bushings (both front and rear)
• And the newly released VTX Rebel Wheels!! They measure 16x8, -12mm offset (4in backspace), gunmetal

These wheels will be complimented with 295/75r16 BFGoodrich KO2's, which BFG claims to measure out to 33.4" (btw would these tires be considered "33's", "33 and a half's", "true 33's", or "34's"?). Regardless, they will be a big improvement over the stock wheel/tire setup I have on there now which makes my 4Runner look like it skipped leg-day. I'm going with the KO2's versus other AT tires for a couple reasons: they are rated for snow and they have an aggressive sidewall that can really increase your footprint when aired down (a must-have for driving in the deep sand in Baja).

I know I'll have to do a little trimming back on the firewall, not sure how much I'll need, but I want to get away without doing a body lift. My goal is to trim everything I need now to fit these tires, so that my next set of tires in a few years can fit (I'm thinking 35's with a 1" body lift).

I'll hopefully have pictures of everything installed in a couple weeks.

 

[Pro408]

Damn, I'm loving this build.

 

[Lamer]

all for team Jake (my name too). and definitely all about the consistent post style. very organised. very nice.

I will be watching this one for sure

 

[theesotericone]

I'd fix it myself but time is a bigger enemy for me than money at the moment.

That's not a bad position to be in. Time is a very valuable resource. You only have so much of it. The kicker is you never know how much. lol

These wheels will be complimented with 295/75r16 BFGoodrich KO2's, which BFG claims to measure out to 33.4" (btw would these tires be considered "33's", "33 and a half's", "true 33's", or "34's"?).

I just use the term true 33's. As far as BFG claimed height it'll be under. They're notorious for claiming a size that actually runs smaller then that claim. It'll still be a true 33 though. Enjoy the new wheels and rims. I bet they'll look pretty damn good.

 

[Team_Jake]

Damn, I'm loving this build.����

Thanks! I realize I don’t have any real good shots of my 4Runner, I’ll make it a priority to get some soon after the tires and wheels are mounted

all for team Jake (my name too). and definitely all about the consistent post style. very organised. very nice.

I will be watching this one for sure

Ha, yeah one of my best friend’s name is also Jake and he’s helped me quite and bit on this little project. Other friends will refer to us as “team Jake” hence the name.

Thanks! Yeah it’s nice reading through other builds like [MENTION=57546]4-Ripcord[/MENTION] or [MENTION=107971]derpiful[/MENTION] and seeing everything so well organized and navigable on their build threads. I hope to keep mine just as organized so anyone curious about any part of my 4Runner can easily find it.

That's not a bad position to be in. Time is a very valuable resource. You only have so much of it. The kicker is you never know how much. lol

Yeah true that! Yeah it sucks but it’ll be worth it to me once I have it back and driving.

I just use the term true 33's. As far as BFG claimed height it'll be under. They're notorious for claiming a size that actually runs smaller then that claim. It'll still be a true 33 though. Enjoy the new wheels and rims. I bet they'll look pretty damn good.

Yeah if someone asks I’ll just say that or “33 and a half’s”. Gotta make sure that everyone knows that these aren’t just regular 33’s, it’s super important!! Haha!

 

[theesotericone]

Yeah if someone asks I’ll just say that or “33 and a half’s”. Gotta make sure that everyone knows that these aren’t just regular 33’s, it’s super important!! Haha!

Everyone knows that most guys running "33's" are really running large 32's. Looking at you 285/75 boys. They'll never admit it but math doesn't lie. lol

 

[Pro408]

You're welcome man! I can't wait to see the outcome.

 

[thegipper]

Just a couple little updates, some good news and some bad news.

First, the bad news:

I'm pretty sure I have a head gasket leak. All the symptoms are pointing towards it (my symptoms are identical to what [MENTION=138943]thegipper[/MENTION] was experiencing):

• My 4Runner will run rough and misfire a little during cold starts for about 5 seconds then run perfect
• I'm loosing coolant at a very slow rate (have to top off my reservoir about once every 2 months) and can't find evidence of an external leak anywhere
• And a couple weeks ago I left my 4Runner parked for over 48 hours and when I started it it blew whitish smoke.

If there is any light to the situation I still have good compression and I can't find any trace of coolant leaking into my oil, and my engine still runs consistently between 190°F and 194°F. I have yet to confirm, I'll need to perform a leak-down test just to be sure but the symptoms started around 10 months ago and seems to be getting slightly worse.

If my head gasket is leaking, I'll likely just take it in and have a local shop fix it or do a swap. I'd fix it myself but time is a bigger enemy for me than money at the moment. I just want to get it fixed the right way before it leads to any major complications, especially since this is my DD.

Definitely do the leak down test next. That is your 100% guaranteed way to know if you HG is indeed leaking.

Unfortunately, it does sound like your HG is leaking based on your symptoms.

Mine never got hot, ran perfectly fine except for that 5 seconds on start up, lost hardly any coolant and rarely produced any white smoke.

Who knows, I could have driven it for thousands of miles before it totally went out but I had a good engine already and decided to just swap it in.

Swapping engines is a TON of work, especially in your garage with no lift.

Hopefully its a simple head gasket repair and won't cost too much.

Good luck

 

[Team_Jake]

Definitely do the leak down test next. That is your 100% guaranteed way to know if you HG is indeed leaking.

Well, the verdict is in from my local shop, head gasket leak on cylinder 3, just what I expected. The shop will be replacing both head gaskets, resurface the heads and check for cracks, and replace all other easy-to-replace items along the way (valve stem seals, valve cover gaskets, half moons, all intake gaskets, etc.).

It’ll set me back about $2k, but honestly I’m not bummed. In a few weeks I’ll have an engine running perfectly and worry-free which to me is totally worth the money. I’m actually pretty stoked to finally pin-point and fix this issue that’s been going on with my engine for nearly a year.

 

[Team_Jake]

Even though my 4Runner will be in the shop for the next couple of weeks, there is some exciting news for today, my tires arrived and are now mounted and balanced!

295/75R16 BFGoodrich KO2s on 16x8 VTX Rebels.

Unfortunately, they will have to stay in the garage for the time being. Soon though...

 

[Team_Jake]

Shop just called, the cylinder head on the passenger side was cracked. That surprises me honestly. I’ve never overheated or can think of any situation where the head would crack.

So question: should I replace both the heads or only the cracked one?? I obviously don’t want to repeat this process in the future, but does it make sense to replace a perfectly good cylinder head with 178k miles or is it something I shouldn’t worry about? Thought??