JBL Amp Wiring Diagram

Helix26404

New member
I'm looking to install a new amplifier inline with the JBL amplifier, but need a wiring diagram to see which lines to tap for the high-to-low level converter. Does anyone have a diagram or know where I can find one?
 
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This is fantastic! Are there any notes available for what the abbreviations mean? See picture.
 

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I'm going to hazard a guess informed by looking the image in the context of your post.

TWL+ = Tweeter left positive
LH = Left hand side
RH = Right hand side

I would caution against wiring a second amp inline with your existing amp especially if stereo schematic abbreviations are foreign to you.
 
It's pretty straight forward. F = front. These are the front door speakers. TW = tweeter. These are on the dash. R = Rear and/or Right but it's pretty clear which one. The only area that is a little confusing is the Front Right speaker. I did not have this diagram when I did mine but now I think either I screwed mines up a bit but it doesn't matter or i got lucky and spliced before any of the other lines that run to the Telematics Transceiver (what the hell is that anyway?). Everything works perfectly fine so I probably preserved the wiring to the Telematics crap when I spliced.
 
Thanks for all of this. I *think* the telematics receiver connected to that speaker is the Bluetooth cell phone speaker interrupt when you get or place a call? In my vehicle I get audio only from the front left dash speaker. I am assuming this is what the telematics controller is doing.

I am assuming I cannot get a line-level signal from the HU here, completely bypassing the amp? I'm afraid it would affect my Bluetooth, etc. With the equipment I'm using (JL Signal Summer and DSP), I can take the high-level, shape it, and output it correctly, but it would be nice to have it coming as a low-level signal...
 
Also one more thing. I see other posts that reference the front speakers being connected in parallel. This diagram doesn't reflect this, UNLESS those connections are being handled internally in the amp??
 
Thanks. Do you know if the front dash speakers get full-range signals? I didn't think they would be full-range until I saw the bass blockers on them, which confused me since the signals are coming on discreet wiring from the amp...
 
I'm going to hazard a guess informed by looking the image in the context of your post.

TWL+ = Tweeter left positive
LH = Left hand side
RH = Right hand side

I would caution against wiring a second amp inline with your existing amp especially if stereo schematic abbreviations are foreign to you.

With respect, I know exactly what I'm doing. In order to keep the factory HU and all associated factory features (AUX inputs, steering wheel controls, Bluetooth audio), I am taking the amplified signals from the JBL amp and placing a JL CleanSweep Signal Summer inline to achieve summed F&R stereo outputs.

From there, I am routing the summed signals to the JL CleanSweep DSP, which will normalize the EQ and provide me with true full-range outputs to send to a JL amplifier. The JL amplifier will output back into the factory wiring where passive crossovers will ensure the right output frequency range to the right speakers.

Thanks for your help on the abbreviations. I should have caught those myself, but as it turns out was staring at the wiring diagram for too long too late into the night.
 
Thanks. Do you know if the front dash speakers get full-range signals? I didn't think they would be full-range until I saw the bass blockers on them, which confused me since the signals are coming on discreet wiring from the amp...

Dash speaker receives high pass signal only. Bass blocker on speaker is for the tweeter. Is that what you were referring to?
 
Yes, thanks. I think what I will have to do then is sum the front 4 speakers into one unified stereo front to ensure I get the full frequency spectrum.

The only negative I can think from this approach is that I will have the phone calls in BOTH driver-side front speakers, rather than just the dash speaker currently. I'm not sure this is even a negative.

Thanks for your help here. I am planning on writing up a full, detailed how-to on this for those who want to keep their factory nav HU, but want the added flexibility of an external amplifier and full-range outputs so that component system users can have exactly what they need to get the sound they want.
 
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With respect, I know exactly what I'm doing. In order to keep the factory HU and all associated factory features (AUX inputs, steering wheel controls, Bluetooth audio), I am taking the amplified signals from the JBL amp and placing a JL CleanSweep Signal Summer inline to achieve summed F&R stereo outputs.

From there, I am routing the summed signals to the JL CleanSweep DSP, which will normalize the EQ and provide me with true full-range outputs to send to a JL amplifier. The JL amplifier will output back into the factory wiring where passive crossovers will ensure the right output frequency range to the right speakers.

Thanks for your help on the abbreviations. I should have caught those myself, but as it turns out was staring at the wiring diagram for too long too late into the night.

I sure didn't mean to offend. Sounds like you have it handled. Good luck with the process and enjoy the new sounds!
 
I am planning on writing up a full, detailed how-to on this for those who want to keep their factory nav HU, but want the added flexibility of an external amplifier and full-range outputs so that component system users can have exactly what they need to get the sound they want.
that would be a really nice addition to the forum knowledge-base. looking forward to your writeup. :bravo:
 
It's pretty straight forward. F = front. These are the front door speakers. TW = tweeter. These are on the dash. R = Rear and/or Right but it's pretty clear which one. The only area that is a little confusing is the Front Right speaker. I did not have this diagram when I did mine but now I think either I screwed mines up a bit but it doesn't matter or i got lucky and spliced before any of the other lines that run to the Telematics Transceiver (what the hell is that anyway?). Everything works perfectly fine so I probably preserved the wiring to the Telematics crap when I spliced.

Any chance the diagram means front LEFT speaker instead of front RIGHT connected to the telematics controller? I can see no reason why the front right would be connected there, but seeing as the sound comes out of the left driver's side, that would make more sense.

I guess I will have to tone test to see for sure.
 

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