Jered's 2000 E-locked Limited 4wd Build

jeredcollins

New member
Just bought my 2000 millennium silver 4Runner w/ eLocker with 99,800 original miles in December 2017. It had over $5,000 in maintenance done in the last year including new radiator, new brakes, new struts, new shocks, new tail lights, transmission service, etc.

*** Updated 04/20/2020 (134,250 miles)***


Exterior:
Emblems plastidipped
Bug deflector
Wind deflectors
5th Gen Trail Rims
2001 Tail Lamps
POR 15 treated
Taco Whip Upgrade


Wheels, Tires, and Brakes
2015 4Runner Trail Rims
Falken Wildpeak AT3W 275/70R17 (123,000 miles)
231MM TBU (OEM Rotors & overhauled OEM calipers & Wagner OEX brakepads) (132,000 miles)

Suspension
FRONT:
Tundra TRD Progressive Springs NEW
Bilstein 5100 Tundra
10mm top plate spacer
ES Sway Bar Bushings
ES End Link Bushings
1" diff drop

REAR:
OME 890 springs
Bilstein 5100 4Runner shocks
[MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION] panhard bar bracket
ES sway bar bushings

Interior
Pioneer AVH2330NEX Head Unit
Polk Audio 6.5 components (front)
Polk Audio 5.25 coaxial (rear)
14 gauge Sky High speaker wire throughout
4 gauge power and ground
Alpine PDX-V9 5 Channel amp 4x100 RMS/ 1x500 RMS
JL Audio 12W6v3 in HO112-W6v3 enclosure
JL bass knob

Weathertec Floormats throughout

Maintenance Done
Timing Belt (56,000 miles)
New Radiator (80,000 miles)
Transmission Fluid Flush (80,000 miles)
New Struts (90,000) miles
New Brakes & Master Cylinder (90,000 miles)
Valve Cover Gaskets (105,500 miles)
Cam Plugs (105,500 miles)
Half-moons (105,500 miles)
Plenum Gaskets (105,500 miles)
Throttle Body Gasket (105,500 miles)
Spark Plug Tube Seals (105,500 miles)
NGK Sparkplugs BKR5EKPB11 (105,500 miles)
NGK 4412 Plug Wires (105,500 miles)
New REMAN transmission (115,000 miles)
OEM LBJ (120,000 miles)
New Radiator (125,800 miles)
DuroBump Transfer Case Bushings (125,900 miles)
LCA Whiteline Bushings and OEM cam bolts, eccentric washers, and cam nut(126,000 miles)



To be done:

Tundra brake mod
Looking for a used supercharger
Gobi Roof Rack w/ ladder
rock sliders
LED Headlights


Current Picture as of 5/2/2019
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Day I bought it December 2017 89,000 miles
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IMG_6256_zpsuthjz2qq.jpg
 
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*brakes

super clean rig & low miles! what are you plans for it? this is just a new owner post, not a build! haha
 
Welcome fellow Jered! That's a unique way to spell our name.

That's a great 4Runner you've got, that one will last you a long, long time.
 
Took out all of the interior to do a clean wiring job for my new sound system.

Bought:
Pioneer AVH 2330NEX w/ HD tuner DVD
Polk Audio 6.5" Component Speakers (front)
Pok Audio 5.25" Coaxial Speakers (rear)
Alpine PDX-V9 5 channel amp -- 4 x 100 rms 1 x 500 rms
JL Audio 12W6v3 in H0112 enclosure

Stripped Down
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/138960857@N05/48014557598/in/dateposted-public/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48014557598_ccbe886bf8_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Untitled"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Polk 6.5 Components with 14 ga wire ran throughout
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/138960857@N05/48014557773/in/dateposted-public/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48014557773_465e134662_c.jpg" width="600" height="800" alt="Untitled"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
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*brakes

super clean rig & low miles! what are you plans for it? this is just a new owner post, not a build! haha

Definitely a build thread....

Already Done:

Complete stereo upgrade $2,500 in parts. Labor was all done by me
Plastidipped emblems

To be done:

Taco whip (already purchased)
Tundra brake mod
Looking for a used supercharger
2" lift
darker window tint
 
Winter Storm Grayson Pics:

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/138960857@N05/48014568196/in/dateposted-public/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48014568196_e11b147072_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Untitled"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/138960857@N05/48014581313/in/dateposted-public/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48014581313_eeb1ac4d2d_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Untitled"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/138960857@N05/48014580243/in/dateposted-public/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48014580243_e189613642_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Untitled"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
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Definitely a build thread....

Already Done:

Complete stereo upgrade $2,500 in parts. Labor was all done by me
Plastidipped emblems

To be done:

Taco whip (already purchased)
Tundra brake mod
Looking for a used supercharger
2" lift
darker window tint
:lol: I was just messin around

PM me when you're ready to buy a lift (I work at ToyTec Lifts), and a supercharger. I know of a couple for sale.
 
Sweet rig! Just got a 2000 limited. When pushing the 4wd button, it takes at least 10 seconds to engage. Is that normal? TIA.


Just bought my 2000 millennium silver 4Runner w/ eLocker with 99,800 original miles in December 2017. It had over $5,000 in maintenance done in the last year including new radiator, new brakes, new struts, new shocks, new tail lights, transmission service, etc.

*** Updated ***

Already Done:


Complete stereo upgrade $2,500 in parts. Labor was all done by me
Plastidipped emblems

To be done:

Taco whip (already purchased)
Tundra brake mod
Looking for a used supercharger
2" lift
darker window tint
IMG_6255_zpsmzy9by1q.jpg

IMG_6256_zpsuthjz2qq.jpg
 
Noticed I was leaking some oil in the rear passenger valve cover around the cam plug area, so I figured I would just do a complete service that includes the following:

Valve cover gaskets x 2 -- 11213-62020
Valve cover washers x 16 -- 900210-05007
Cam plugs x 2 -- 11188-62010
Half-moons x 4 -- 11183-62010
NGK Dual Electrode Spark Plugs x 6 -- BKR5EKPB11
NGK Wires -- 4412 RC-TE66
Plenum gasket x 2 -- 17176-62040
Throttle body gasket x 1 -- 22271-62040
Spark Plug Seals x 6 -- 11193-70010
PCV Valve -- 12204-62010
PCV Grommet -- 90480-18001

I followed the Toyota Tool Time video YouTube and it helped a lot.

Total hours I spent was around 12. I went really slow and annotated ever single thing I did, including pictures, to ensure I could reverse engineer what I took apart. The single most important piece of advice I could advise someone that is thinking about doing this is to mark every connection you dissemble with some form of identification. I used duct tape and wrote in magic marker a number for each connection I removed. When I went to reinstall everything it was super easy, all I had to do was find the matching numbers and hook it back up. There were roughly over 50 items I kept track of that I removed (hoses, brackets, vacuum lines, bolts, nuts, etc.).

Oh yea, you don't need a gapping tool for dual prong spark plugs.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/138960857@N05/40630007332/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_6525"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/4614/40630007332_664831c955_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="IMG_6525"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/138960857@N05/39962187534/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_6522"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/4781/39962187534_03430a0387_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="IMG_6522"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/138960857@N05/25801225747/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_6523"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/4745/25801225747_d03734d8b6_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="IMG_6523"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Airbox off... next up throttle body
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/138960857@N05/40671854391/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_6554"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/4607/40671854391_be103fd0b3_c.jpg" width="600" height="800" alt="IMG_6554"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Upper plenum off
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/138960857@N05/40671853541/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_6556"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/4694/40671853541_1d2e8abd86_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="IMG_6556"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Lower plenum off
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/138960857@N05/40671852751/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_6558"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/4782/40671852751_8d8d688871_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="IMG_6558"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Yucky PCV valve
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Passenger side valve cover off (pretty clean)
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Culprit of my oil leak ;P
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/138960857@N05/39962171144/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_6564"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/4711/39962171144_dd17b92ddb_c.jpg" width="600" height="800" alt="IMG_6564"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Driver's side valve cover (don't forget to tape of the plastic wiring loom... it's super brittle)
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/138960857@N05/26800635508/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_6568"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/4617/26800635508_c354308239_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="IMG_6568"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Slathered lots of FIPG on the halfmoons
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/138960857@N05/39962167804/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_6569"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/4792/39962167804_df3219caca_c.jpg" width="600" height="800" alt="IMG_6569"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Old spark plugs
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/138960857@N05/39778191545/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_6572"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/4665/39778191545_afc96fa627_c.jpg" width="600" height="800" alt="IMG_6572"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
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Took out all of the interior to do a clean wiring job for my new sound system.

Bought:
Pioneer AVH 2330NEX w/ HD tuner DVD
Polk Audio 6.5" Component Speakers (front)
Pok Audio 5.25" Coaxial Speakers (rear)
Alpine PDX-V9 5 channel amp -- 4 x 100 rms 1 x 500 rms
JL Audio 12W6v3 in H0112 enclosure

Stripped Down

Please tell me you put in some sound deadening after doing all that work to strip the interior, at least in the cargo area! Makes a world of a difference in sound quality without all that sound contamination.
 
Please tell me you put in some sound deadening after doing all that work to strip the interior, at least in the cargo area! Makes a world of a difference in sound quality without all that sound contamination.

I haven't yet. Definitely on my short list of things to do.
 
Quick update on the oil leak...

Even after doing the complete VCG change with ancillary part change outs... I still had some oil on the garage floor this morning. In fact it looks worse than before. I'm hoping that it's mostly residual oil from taking off the valve covers. Not sure what to do next if it continues to exist.
 
I haven't yet. Definitely on my short list of things to do.

I bought the stuff I used in my build thread from RAAMaudio - Automotive sound deadening products. Good stuff but not super expensive like dynamat. The owner told a user on here which areas to focus on, this made a huge difference in mine:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...nd-deadening-tutroial-body-panel-removal.html

Two layers in the rear cargo area is a must. That's where most of the noise comes from. I only did that plus the 4 doors and it made a huge difference!

Then I went out and put an aftermarket exhaust and headers on, lol... oh well.
Quick update on the oil leak...

Even after doing the complete VCG change with ancillary part change outs... I still had some oil on the garage floor this morning. In fact it looks worse than before. I'm hoping that it's mostly residual oil from taking off the valve covers. Not sure what to do next if it continues to exist.

Just watch it for a few days. If you changed your oil it's common to have it leak all over the place because of the oil filter's location.
 
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So went ahead and tackled some of the rust issue. My best piece of advice is to buy an air needle scaler. I bought the mini one from Harbor Freight for around $30 and it's one of the best tools I've ever bought. It made the job much easier and faster than just using a wire wheel. I spent probably 14 hrs total over a Saturday and Sunday doing the job. Just a tedious job that takes a lot of patience and attention to detail. I used the POR 15 degreaser, metal etcher, and the gloss protective coat.


BEFORE:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/138960857@N05/46737551864/in/dateposted-public/" title="rusty frame"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/7905/46737551864_dd8935a46a_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="rusty frame"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

AFTER:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/138960857@N05/46545469255/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG-7453"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/7810/46545469255_a116ce614e_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="IMG-7453"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
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Wheeler's Offroad was awesome to work with. Definitely will do business with them again. Here's a sneak peek.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/138960857@N05/46737701454/in/dateposted-public/" title="lift kit"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/7813/46737701454_dbab876e70_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="lift kit"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
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Knocked out the LCA bushings. Went with the Whiteline kit due to the cost. Overall not really that hard of a job other than the original outer metal sleeve of the OEM bushings being completely seized on the LCA. After hours of PB plaster, ball peen hammer, pressing with bottle jack, I gave up and took the LCA to a shop where they used an air hammer to get out the seized sleeve. I used an air needle scaler to get rid of some of the excess rust and refinished with a can of Rustoleum.

Before:
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LCA in the press
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Finished product with Whiteline Bushings inserted
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Wanted to add some quality wheel spacers and only wanted to go with 1" spacing. Ended up researching a company named Bora. They are CNC machined to order. They are very very nice quality and I will continue to use their products in the future.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/138960857@N05/48014493096/in/dateposted-public/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48014493096_ee0cbd2c92_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Untitled"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 

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