Junk yard rear axle assembly?

B

Brian1973

New member
2000 4x4 3.4L 16" wheels w/ABS, no locker

I'm starting to think I am better off replacing the whole rear assembly. Problems started about 10 years ago at 150k miles, when I got water into the 3rd member after using truck to pull a boat and sink 3rd member in the water before knowing about needing to move breather tube up higher. So, after a while, whirling noises started. Took to shop and they drained little bit of water and replaced fluid after putting in new bearings, resetting pinion and whatever they did to put it back together. Said I would still hear a little bit of noise but it seemed stout.

Now I'm at 210k miles and have had a thumping going over bumps that turns out to be axle related. Turned out to possibly be the pinion gear was loose? So shop tighten it up for $200 but said it wasn't going to completely cure the noise... Did seem a little less of a noise over bumps for a week or so but not much. I could still feel up and down play in the driveshaft. Asked about axle bearings at the wheels since it seems the noise comes from the driver's side rear wheel. I jack up the rear and I can get a little bit of play it seems in both rear wheels when grabbing wheel and quickly pushing wheel up and down while off the ground. Could that be the noise? Figuring even if they did check bearings, at 210k, probably going to need new bearings and seals soon? Never done since I've had at 115k.

Question is whether it would be worth swapping out the rear axle assembly for a junk yard assembly with 160k? Figure I could get one with a locker (added bonus) possibly for $300-$450? Hope that it didn't suffer the water issue I put mine through since mine still makes a little bit of noise. Would probably need to have the bearings changed in it eventually but I'm tired of the thumping I'm getting currently and figure why put money into something that was already making a bit of noise from the water issue... I'm guessing it is a 4:10 ratio and shop said they've never seen different but guess I need to double check that?

Ideas?
 
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Brian1973 said:
2000 4x4 3.4L 16" wheels w/ABS, no locker



I'm starting to think I am better off replacing the whole rear assembly. Problems started about 10 years ago at 150k miles, when I got water into the 3rd member after using truck to pull a boat and sink 3rd member in the water before knowing about needing to move breather tube up higher. So, after a while, whirling noises started. Took to shop and they drained little bit of water and replaced fluid after putting in new bearings, resetting pinion and whatever they did to put it back together. Said I would still hear a little bit of noise but it seemed stout.



Now I'm at 210k miles and have had a thumping going over bumps that turns out to be axle related. Turned out to possibly be the pinion gear was loose? So shop tighten it up for $200 but said it wasn't going to completely cure the noise... Did seem a little less of a noise over bumps for a week or so but not much. I could still feel up and down play in the driveshaft. Asked about axle bearings at the wheels since it seems the noise comes from the driver's side rear wheel. I jack up the rear and I can get a little bit of play it seems in both rear wheels when grabbing wheel and quickly pushing wheel up and down while off the ground. Could that be the noise? Figuring even if they did check bearings, at 210k, probably going to need new bearings and seals soon? Never done since I've had at 115k.



Question is whether it would be worth swapping out the rear axle assembly for a junk yard assembly with 160k? Figure I could get one with a locker (added bonus) possibly for $300-$450? Hope that it didn't suffer the water issue I put mine through since mine still makes a little bit of noise. Would probably need to have the bearings changed in it eventually but I'm tired of the thumping I'm getting currently and figure why put money into something that was already making a bit of noise from the water issue... I'm guessing it is a 4:10 ratio and shop said they've never seen different but guess I need to double check that?



Ideas?
Click to expand...
Could Just change the entire whole rear assembly. Probably should change the axle seals and breather. If you do that.

Or find out exactly what's wrong with your current one and see which cheaper.


There are serveral gear ratios with 2 being the most common. Factory e lockers have a few different ratios as well. So. It's best to verify your ratio before buying replacements or you may have to swap the front differential as well.

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You cannot tighten the pinion flange/gear as it would actually loosen the gear contact between pinion and ring gear and cause lots of backlash and noise, the dealer has a method incase they need to do a pinion seal but it's a good guess at best and most reuse the steaked nut and put it back exactly as it was so you don't screw up the gear contact/preload.., you only get one shot at setting the preload while the diff is out as there is a crush sleeve In OEM 3rd's, if the contact was to loose you would have to take the entire 3rd memeber apart again and put in a new crush sleeve and check contact pattern again, if too tight you can tighten it and recheck tooth contact pattern. You cannot tighten it on the vehicle and know what the gear contact looks like, so then I have to ask if they didn't know this how could they possibly replace the pinion bearings and set backlash properly, and then I wonder if they used Temkin or koyo bearings or something none standard.. My suggestion is to order a 3rd from ECGS, and send your core back to them for refund unless your diff housing is rusted out. Axle bearings should be solid on vehicle and a bit of play once axle shaft is pulled out is normal, might be wise to check axle shafts for runout while they are out. I wouldn't bother with a junkyard axle personally unless it has 90,000miles. Driveshaft can also develope runout, spline wear and it's very hard to diagnose the centring ball, are you getting vibes in the t-case shifter aswell.
 
Last edited:
Malcolm,

6/2013 - replaced 3 diff bearings, a taper roller bearing, ring spacer, gasket couple seals... $1500... I probably could have bought a new one for that? 2 months later, I was hearing a more pronounce noise again back there... took back, they took it apart and remember them needing it an extra day because they had not received the crush sleeve. Sooo, they disassembed, reset pinion depth and reassembled and the noise was basically gone. It wasn't pre water intrusion quiet but it was much better. No charge second time with reset.

Recently, noise from rear end over bumps. No whirling, vibrations or gear noise like before. Hit sharp bumps in the road and it sounds like I'm hitting the bump stops, sorta feels like it too.... I am not hitting the stops, new springs and shocks within the year... I've gone over the list of things it could be, a bad shock, gas tank strap broke, bushings in control arms rotted (really hard to check this without removal but they don't appear to be the issue and I think there would be some torquing of the body if so as I did have a lower control arm issue years ago that did that)... Haven't found a culprit. Took to this reputable shop that had worked on it for the 3rd member work in 2013 (does alot of import work) and they said it was common to have a differential issue cause such a noise... I had as stated felt some up and down movement in the driveshaft when parked or in nuetral.... Took to the shop (which is rare for me to do) and asked to have them diagnose. Few days later, get it back and they charge me $175 to (on invoice - "adjust and tighten rear pinion bearing"). I remember him saying they were able to just tighten it without needing to get a new sleeve... ????? Whether they took it out or not I don't know. Back in 2013, invoice says they had to remove hitch receiver? Nothing about that this time so guessing they did whatever they did with it still in the truck? The drive shaft felt a bit tighter. Although I've realized I can be fooled if I put in park and the truck isn't resting on level ground, the shaft has tension on it and won't wiggle... The sound seemed a little less pronounced but honestly I wasn't happy with it because it still felt like something is "hitting" over bumps... this isn't an everyday driver but after a couple weeks, it seemed it was just as loud and pronounced as before... I get no vibrations.... whether in 2wd or 4wd... My only issue is this thumping over bumps. Seemed to make sense a wheel bearing being worn and loose might cause that? but did state that to shop and they said nothing about it sooooo..... appreciate your knowledge.
 
Brian1973 said:
Malcolm,

6/2013 - replaced 3 diff bearings, a taper roller bearing, ring spacer, gasket couple seals... $1500... I probably could have bought a new one for that?
Click to expand...

3rd member gearing/setup is complicated and involved. I have done it one time myself and it took me all day to get nailed down. Has been nice and quiet now since I did it in 2018. fingers x'ed.

you might want to consider the ECGS option? I have used them in the past and had good luck. you probably just have 4.10 gear ratio. just do a google search for toyota axle code, it's on your door sticker.

Toyota V6 8''- Pickup, 4runner,FJ Criuser

you can get already setup 3rd's for a reasonable price. install still sucks.

I have also purchased real axle housing from salvage, was fine but the entire assembly needed to be gone thru anyways... if you can't do that yourself... I think it might cost more than just swapping the 3rd out for a pre-made one? brakes, bearing, seals .... that service can add up quickly.

3rd gen 4runners rear axle seals work great if they are setup correctly but a lot of shops just don't know how to do it.
 
On my 01 sport the pinion bearing failed taking out the pinion and ring gear.

I just bought a salvage rust free complete axle from CA and had it shipped in.

In my case, being I had a pinhole in my axle housing that caused the gear grease leak and severe damage to my 3rd member it was the cheaper route. :D. Both ways has pros and cons though so do what's the best for your situation. :)



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Your gear ratio code is on the doorjamb sticker. This site will help you decode it and also help you find that mythical 4.3 gear e-locker that's hiding somewhere in a junkyard, just waiting for you: LC ENGINEERING Differential Tech. Look at the section that says 1990 and newer Toyotas. Chances are your current gear code is A03A, or 4.10 gears.
 
OP for reference I bought a complete e-locker axle from a junkyard in Georgetown for $500, swapped in a 4.56 rear 3rd from ECGS and shipped the core 4.10 3rd back to ECGS.

This seems like a good opportunity to get the party switch.
 
Need complete rear axle 4.10 gear no elocker abs for 3rd gen

brillo_76 said:
On my 01 sport the pinion bearing failed taking out the pinion and ring gear.

I just bought a salvage rust free complete axle from CA and had it shipped in.

In my case, being I had a pinhole in my axle housing that caused the gear grease leak and severe damage to my 3rd member it was the cheaper route. :D. Both ways has pros and cons though so do what's the best for your situation. :)



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Click to expand...


how did you find the junkyard in cali? looking for the 4.10 no elocker w/ abs all i find is very crunchy with 250-300k miles
 
Cewoz said:
how did you find the junkyard in cali? looking for the 4.10 no elocker w/ abs all i find is very crunchy with 250-300k miles
Click to expand...

Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market is one, you can search by area or mileage from your home zip. LKQOnline is another. I use this place personally as they have decent prices but I don't know if they ship: SPECIALIZED AUTO RECYCLING - Automotive Recycling 3400 Sunrise Blvd Rancho Cordova, Ca. 95742.

Rancho Cordova is the Mecca of used auto parts on the West Coast. I'm spoiled as I can drive there in 30 min, get any part from any vehicle ever made and be on my way.
 
Cewoz said:
how did you find the junkyard in cali? looking for the 4.10 no elocker w/ abs all i find is very crunchy with 250-300k miles
Click to expand...
This was a few years ago. I have to look at were I got it. I had it shipped from CA to PA. With a bunch of other rust free parts..:) I see 2 other users assisted on this one.. Thanks guys:)

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