Just Brake Pads?..Rotors?...So Confused

[Titanpat57]

Ok.I'm not a car mechanic..so I'm at an impasse..

I can get just pads installed, at the dealer, for $300..or have the rotors turned and/ or replaced for a hell of alot more....

So what does the "intelligent" more mechanical, collective think?

There going to have wheels off anyways to install the lift, and the guy says he can better if it's all done at once.:hungry:

 

[eddiebx]

Did you take a look at your rotors to see if they are severely worn (ie. deep wavy gouges on the surface, remaining rotor material thickness, etc.)? I've not owned this 4runner long enough to tell you how aggressively the stock brake pads wear down the rotors, so I don't know if you need new rotors yet or not

If the rotors still look good and have enough meat left, why not just leave it alone and change only the pads out and call it a day?

Personally, if I was not experiencing any shimmying in the steering wheel while braking, I wouldn't bother resurfacing the rotors...and also generally speaking in my previous cars, I've yet to ever wear original rear rotors past their service life, so definitely take a look at your rear rotors before replacing them!

I mean yeah of course it's better and easier to do it all at once, but at who's expense :doh:

 

[Okki]

Another option would be to buy your own rotors and pads and hand them over to the mechanic to install. that way you only get raped on the labor and not on the parts as well.

I've gotten rotors and pads from EBC before (different vehicle) and was very happy with those. Had them installed by a dealer when my car was there for other service.

Okki

 

[1engineer]

Get the pads. If you still have issues get the rotors turned. Once you do that though it's only a matter of time til they need replaced. I had 1/2 pad left after 66K on my SR5. What's your mileage? Are they pulling or shaking during braking?

 

[Titanpat57]

Get the pads. If you still have issues get the rotors turned. Once you do that though it's only a matter of time til they need replaced. I had 1/2 pad left after 66K on my SR5. What's your mileage? Are they pulling or shaking during braking?

I'm at 73,000+ right now...stops good, no shakes, shudder or vibration, last report says it still had .3 on the fronts and .4-.5 on the rears...but I figured since they were pulling the wheels off anyway, it may be a good time to do it.

Thanks guys for advice...i'm all ears

 

[1engineer]

I'm at 73,000+ right now...stops good, no shakes, shudder or vibration, last report says it still had .3 on the fronts and .4-.5 on the rears...but I figured since they were pulling the wheels off anyway, it may be a good time to do it.

Thanks guys for advice...i'm all ears

Just the pads then. Pulling the wheels is easy at a later date. You don't want to turn the rotors unless you have to because as you take off material by turning them you have less material, which leads to same amount of heat during braking going into that reduced material, which leads to rotors running hotter during braking, which leads to easier warping, etc.

 

[eddiebx]

I'm at 73,000+ right now...stops good, no shakes, shudder or vibration, last report says it still had .3 on the fronts and .4-.5 on the rears...but I figured since they were pulling the wheels off anyway, it may be a good time to do it.

Thanks guys for advice...i'm all ears

Are those measurements in inches or cm? I posted this in another thread (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...tandard-brake-hardware-right.html#post1380322), but according to the manual I think they are suppose to start off ~11mm in the front and ~10mm in the back.

Are they even giving you a better deal on labor for doing it all at the same time? (Sorry I am super skeptical when it comes to stealerships, but I'm sure you know how it is around these neck of the woods)

If those measurements are in mm, I'd probably lean towards replacing at least the fronts, since they do most of the braking, but the rears you might be able to hang on a bit longer.

 

[Jono.ful]

I like how they appear to be trying to upsell you on the difficulty of "taking the wheels off". you can do this yourself with nothing more than the tools that are in the driver's side rear quarter panel behind the access door (bottle jack and lug wrench) in absolutely no more than 10 min per wheel. In a shop up on a hoist, this takes about 30 seconds.

 

[JayceeP]

Get the pads. If you still have issues get the rotors turned. Once you do that though it's only a matter of time til they need replaced. I had 1/2 pad left after 66K on my SR5. What's your mileage? Are they pulling or shaking during braking?

I'm at 73,000+ right now...stops good, no shakes, shudder or vibration, last report says it still had .3 on the fronts and .4-.5 on the rears...but I figured since they were pulling the wheels off anyway, it may be a good time to do it.

Thanks guys for advice...i'm all ears

That seems like a pretty reasonable life for brake pads/rotors.... or maybe I just don't know what I am talking about. I know I am contributing nothing to this thread, but just wanted to say that at least gives me some sort of reference point as my odometer ticks along.

 

[Titanpat57]

Are those measurements in inches or cm? I posted this in another thread (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...tandard-brake-hardware-right.html#post1380322), but according to the manual I think they are suppose to start off ~11mm in the front and ~10mm in the back.

Are they even giving you a better deal on labor for doing it all at the same time? (Sorry I am super skeptical when it comes to stealerships, but I'm sure you know how it is around these neck of the woods)

If those measurements are in mm, I'd probably lean towards replacing at least the fronts, since they do most of the braking, but the rears you might be able to hang on a bit longer.

I think they're in metric....eep: Again, Im sure it's a bit high...but im pretty sure he'll do me right. They're the same folks who put it on and took it off from the guy I bought the lift from.

I like how they appear to be trying to upsell you on the difficulty of "taking the wheels off". you can do this yourself with nothing more than the tools that are in the driver's side rear quarter panel behind the access door (bottle jack and lug wrench) in absolutely no more than 10 min per wheel. In a shop up on a hoist, this takes about 30 seconds.

I didnt get a bad feeling, but I think the service manager realized I was just interested in pads, and it was cool. I know its not a hard job....I just have never done it before, and would feel a lot better if it was completed by a mechanic.

That seems like a pretty reasonable life for brake pads/rotors.... or maybe I just don't know what I am talking about. I know I am contributing nothing to this thread, but just wanted to say that at least gives me some sort of reference point as my odometer ticks along.

When I searched I didn't really find the answers I wanted.....it least now it's a starting point.

Thanks guys for the input!!

 

[mikebontoft]

$300 for just pads?

Look, if your pads are worn down you probably want to resurface the rotors. If you don't, expect the pads to wear unevenly or even make incomplete contact with the rotor surface. Then you'll just have to take in and pay them to do the job again.

My question is if they have an on-the-car lathe or if they have to disassemble the hubs. the on-car lathe can be used while they have the calipers off and waiting for pads. It also results in a more true turning of the rotor since rust and that kinda stuff on the mounting surface doesn't matter.

Just my input.

 

[Qjake]

I like how they appear to be trying to upsell you on the difficulty of "taking the wheels off". you can do this yourself with nothing more than the tools that are in the driver's side rear quarter panel behind the access door (bottle jack and lug wrench) in absolutely no more than 10 min per wheel. In a shop up on a hoist, this takes about 30 seconds.

^This!

Is $300 for both front and rear? You should be able to get them done for much much less. Is there a local independent shop near by that you trust? Shop around you can do a lot better.:boink:

Curious why you're using the dealer? They are notorious, at least around here, for high prices for parts and labor and poor workmanship. As I quoted you in my sig... :wink2:

 

[Qjake]

$300 for just pads?

Look, if your pads are worn down you probably want to resurface the rotors. If you don't, expect the pads to wear unevenly or even make incomplete contact with the rotor surface. Then you'll just have to take in and pay them to do the job again.

My question is if they have an on-the-car lathe or if they have to disassemble the hubs. the on-car lathe can be used while they have the calipers off and waiting for pads. It also results in a more true turning of the rotor since rust and that kinda stuff on the mounting surface doesn't matter.

Just my input.

The calipers don't need to be removed to change the pads.

Pat,
Be prepared for when you go to pick it up and the service writer says "oh by the way your rotors are toast so we replaced them. That'll be another $300" :wtf:

 

[mikebontoft]

oh yeah that's right.. well I just meant having the pads out then. You can leave the calipers on the car with the on-car lathe. huge time saver, not having to pull the hubs apart just to replace or turn the rotors.

While I agree that removing metal from the rotor surface does make it thinner and more prone to heat warpage, the most that probably comes off the total thickness is .012" if they are still pretty straight and .028" if you have to make multiple passes to true the rotor surface.

Why am I advising you have them turned? Because the old pads left a track in the rotor surface. Put nice new pads on and they do have the potential to chatter. The rotor surface is also supposed to be dull,but once it gets shiny then you'll have yourself some pretty squeaky brakes. It doesn't take long to get to this point. Oh and the pads will probably not bed properly.

Do it once, do it right.

 

[Htorres1980]

I'm at 50K miles and my front pads were at 2mm and rear pads were at 3mm. Right before a nice 6 hour trip from So. Cal to North Cal this weekend. Dealership quoted me 249.99, but with coupon down to 199.99. That was for rotor resurfacing and new pads. However that's per axel (meaning 400.00 total).

I was not feeling any shimming on my steering wheel when braking (sign of uneven rotors). So I instead went down to the local auto-parts today and picked up the pads (rear and front) for 120.00. Replaced them myself. Not a tough job.

The first time can be daunting, but piece of advice if you ever do it yourself and not sure what goes where (you have a mirror image on the other side that you can use for guidance). Keep in mind that requires ability to lift the entire back or front of 4Runner to have both wheels off.

I'm sure there are plenty write-ups, videos, etc, but I'd say if they're charging you 300.00 per axel, do it elsewhere. If 300 for both front and rear with parts and labor (not too bad), just my opinion. FYI: The front pads are super easy to change out.

 

[Titanpat57]

Thanks guys...awesome info!

[MENTION=76166]Qjake[/MENTION] ....he said $150 per axle...which didnt seem horrible. I dont have lifts, or jacks, or any of that shit.....and it may be a 10 minute job for someone, but it aint this kid.

Now if someones wants to come down and chuck these pads in for me, I'll go put crown moulding in your living room, build you a cabinet, lay your foundation, frame your house......that's what I do!

I really appreciate all the responses....I'll be staying at the stealership while this is being done.....hopefully it won't leave me broke...:doh:

 

[dorskh]

Well after developing a grinding noise from the front passenger side brake i decided to stop for a free pep boys brake inspection...I have 88,000 on my 5th gen and was told that i needed to replace the front and rear pads, front rotors, and have the rear rotors lathed...had them write me up a quote with their rotors and EBC 7000 green stuff pads, 760.00 BUCKS!!!!! yikes....i went on amazon, found warehouse deals open box EBC Yellowstuff pads for 48 bucks a set (they still have greens for dirt cheap!), and autoanything for centric premium rotors (77 bucks for fronts with price match).. Pep boys quoted me 25 bucks to lathe each rear rotor so i just ordered centric premiums for the rears as well!!! (52.00 a piece with price match)...
So out the door before labor i am at 310.00 bucks for much better components then pep boys quoted me...my buddy is a mechanic and is installing everything for 75 bucks and some beers...cant beat that!

 

[Stifler]

changing pads and rotors is easier that filling your tank with gas. Do it yourself! Pads are like $40! You can pop the rotors and have them turned or just slap new ones on if you'd like. I would say pads and rotors will run $200ish for parts and fluid. If you were close I would show you how to do it

 

[Stifler]

..my buddy is a mechanic and is installing everything for 75 bucks and some beers...cant beat that!

a buddy charges... a friend would do that shit for free! Ok well I would take the beers but I wouldnt charge you

 

[dorskh]

too bad you arent in Chicago Stifler!!! hahaha