Just Hit 1,000 miles...

[sLADe781]

Hey everyone,

So I just hit 1,000 miles and am done with my break-in procedure on my 2018 4Runner Limited and wanted to get some information on maintenance items and other random questions. This is my first completely brand new vehicle so please bare with me:

1. oil change: I run Mobil1 full synthetic oil with WIX filters on all my vehicles. Should I change to my Mobil1/WIX combination or would you guys advise I stick with dealership oil and filter for now?

2. at what point will it be “safe” to switch to Mobil1 and WIX?

3. fluids: when would you recommend replacing other fluids: front and rear differential fluids, transfer case oil, and automatic transmission fluid? I've read that some members have started the process after the break-in period have been completed to drain out the metallic pieces associated with the break-in process so I'm not sure if this is a recommended practice or if I should wait? If I should wait, when would be a good time to consider replacing everything?

4. most my vehicles are lowered so my jacks and jack stands are all designed for lowered vehicles. As such, I will need to buy a new set of jacks/jack stands for the 4Runner. Will this Pittsburgh jack from Harbor Freight be a good choice? https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-steel-heavy-duty-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-62584.html

Thanks in advance for any help provided!

 

[Cndnmax]

There’s no “unsafe” time to change oil to synthetic, just stick to the recommended weight and you are good to go.

https://www.costco.com/3-Ton-Professional-Grade-Aluminum-And-Steel-Service-Jack.product.100222458.html
i have this jack from costco which might be a little better and lifts the same height (18.5). But with a 1” lift up from I can’t get the tires off the ground from the frame. I currently just use a 2x4 on the jack pad to lift it but I plan on making a platform for the jack to sit on.

As for Jack stands, something like this should work just fine.
https://www.costco.com/6-ton-Jack-Stands-2-pack-by-Torin-Jacks.product.11489433.html

 

[nb rob]

it's already full synthetic 0w20. The common consensus is that it's wasteful to avoid the OCI specified in the user manual. However, it is your vehicle.... do as you wish.

I've been using mobile 1, and I bought several OEM oil cartridges from an order at mcgeorge toyota for 3.50 each. The OEM filters are nice. I also used to use WIX on other vehicles....

I agree with the post above-- 6ton jackstands are better. not only for the safety, but the extra reach is well worth it. I also use a bottlejack/jackstand combo that I love.

I've replaced the rear diff fluid once, and I'm getting ready to the do the front and rear again after 3 years / 40k miles. I use mine offroad often, but I do not tow. Do some reading about the ATF on here.... it's a closed system, and my impression is that it's best left closed until there is some serious mileage. It's not bold to assume that premature a ATF change could introduce contaminants needlessly..

Just some points to consider.
regards,

-Rob

 

[Cndnmax]

it's already full synthetic 0w20. The common consensus is that it's wasteful to avoid the OCI specified in the user manual. However, it is your vehicle.... do as you wish.

I agree, follow the manufacturers recommendation.

Heck, for my motorcycle I go half way between the European recommendation (7kmiles) and the USA recommendation of (3k miles) and call it good at 5k miles.

I also use a bottlejack/jackstand combo that I love.

Something like this?
Powerbuilt 620471 Unijack - 6000 lb. Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GJJZ5NI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sGAFBbN22ZH5Y

 

[nb rob]

I agree, follow the manufacturers recommendation.

Heck, for my motorcycle I go half way between the European recommendation (7kmiles) and the USA recommendation of (3k miles) and call it good at 5k miles.



Something like this?
Powerbuilt 620471 Unijack - 6000 lb. Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GJJZ5NI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sGAFBbN22ZH5Y

That’s the one! I didn’t think I’d like it as much as I do.

I’m also straddling the USA/Canadian OCI recommendation, which is somewhat odd: USA is 10,000 miles,Canadian is 8000km, which makes no sense whatsoever.

However if I stumble over the 8000km mark, it alleviates the guilt.

 

[STX4Runner]

Definitely don't worry about changing any fluids yet. Oil is good for 10K miles. Don't change it more often unless you like recreationally changing your own oil...or supporting your local dealer. You won't need to touch the diffs or t-case for a long time. And FWIW, I'd be willing to bet there is no one one here that actually puts theirs through whatever severe use Toyota is thinking about when they recommend more frequent fluid changes. [MENTION=78273]Jeremy556[/MENTION] practically lives in Moab, is on the trail all the time and has over 200K on his and as far as I know has stuck to the Toyota recommended intervals with no issues.

I changed my rear diff fluid for the first time at 45K and just last month at 98K, and I changed my front diff and t-case fluids for the first time at 98K. All are fine. Oil has been every 10K.

 

[sLADe781]

Awesome, thanks guys!

As for Jack stands, something like this should work just fine.
https://www.costco.com/6-ton-Jack-Stands-2-pack-by-Torin-Jacks.product.11489433.html

Thanks for the link. I'll look into picking up a set of these jack stands as well.

I agree with the post above-- 6ton jackstands are better. not only for the safety, but the extra reach is well worth it. I also use a bottlejack/jackstand combo that I love.

Something like this?
Powerbuilt 620471 Unijack - 6000 lb. Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GJJZ5NI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sGAFBbN22ZH5Y

This is actually really cool! So this is both a jack and a jack stand all-in-one?

Definitely don't worry about changing any fluids yet. Oil is good for 10K miles. Don't change it more often unless you like recreationally changing your own oil...or supporting your local dealer. You won't need to touch the diffs or t-case for a long time. And FWIW, I'd be willing to bet there is no one one here that actually puts theirs through whatever severe use Toyota is thinking about when they recommend more frequent fluid changes. [MENTION=78273]Jeremy556[/MENTION] practically lives in Moab, is on the trail all the time and has over 200K on his and as far as I know has stuck to the Toyota recommended intervals with no issues.

I changed my rear diff fluid for the first time at 45K and just last month at 98K, and I changed my front diff and t-case fluids for the first time at 98K. All are fine. Oil has been every 10K.

Thanks for the confirmation!

I also read in a different post the need to engage 4HI/4LO before changing the fluids in the front differential and transfer case...can someone explain the proper procedure in doing so? The salesman briefly went over the directions and parameters (IE: low speeds) when I was purchasing the vehicle but that was 2 months ago and I do not recall.

At what point would one need to change the settings to 4HI/4LO? I don't plan to go offroading but for sure to the snow. Would snowy conditions require a change?

Finally, is there a service manual somewhere that is available for download or purchase? I tried looking on eBay but could not find any.

 

[Jeremy556]

That is a fine jack. I would recommend 6 ton jack stands, 2 minimum, 4 is better, you can never have too many, really.

I don't think you can beat OEM filters, plus they are very cheap. I have been using Mobil1 0w20 since 10k miles. 20 oil changes later and inside the valve cover is immaculate.

I change rear diff oil every 50k miles or so. Front diff, transfer case, transmission, coolant, PS, plugs, and brake fluid every 100k, while I have the skids off.

I'm at about 230k miles now, I am expecting 600-800k miles of service. My only non-wear item repair to date, over $200, was a fuel pump just a few weeks ago. Fuel pump was still fine, but the check valve failed, allowing fuel to leak back into the tank from the fuel rail, causing a long crank condition when the ambient temp was high and the engine was stopped for more than 20 minutes.

 

[Jeremy556]

I also read in a different post the need to engage 4HI/4LO before changing the fluids in the front differential and transfer case...can someone explain the proper procedure in doing so?

Not really to do with changing the fluid, you need to engage 4wd periodically to keep the ADD and the transfer case actuator (if equipped) from freezing up.

The ADD (Automatic Differential Disconnect) is an electrically actuated sliding collar on the passenger side front axle shaft that disconnects the passenger side axle shaft from the axle, allowing the side gears in the diff to spin and not engage the ring and pinion, reducing rolling resistance when in 2wd. This is basically the modern version of manual locking hubs.

If you have a Limited or an after 2013 (IIRC, might be 2014) SR5, you'll have an electronically actuated transfer case (buttons or switch instead of a manual shifter), which you should use regularly. TEs and early SR5 have manual transfer case actuation, but still need to exercise the ADD.

 

[PatrickBateman]

I’ve had my pro for 24 days. Almost 3k miles on it now. Runs just fine.

 

[sLADe781]

That is a fine jack. I would recommend 6 ton jack stands, 2 minimum, 4 is better, you can never have too many, really.

I don't think you can beat OEM filters, plus they are very cheap. I have been using Mobil1 0w20 since 10k miles. 20 oil changes later and inside the valve cover is immaculate.

I change rear diff oil every 50k miles or so. Front diff, transfer case, transmission, coolant, PS, plugs, and brake fluid every 100k, while I have the skids off.

I'm at about 230k miles now, I am expecting 600-800k miles of service. My only non-wear item repair to date, over $200, was a fuel pump just a few weeks ago. Fuel pump was still fine, but the check valve failed, allowing fuel to leak back into the tank from the fuel rail, causing a long crank condition when the ambient temp was high and the engine was stopped for more than 20 minutes.

Great to hear - thank you!

Not really to do with changing the fluid, you need to engage 4wd periodically to keep the ADD and the transfer case actuator (if equipped) from freezing up.

The ADD (Automatic Differential Disconnect) is an electrically actuated sliding collar on the passenger side front axle shaft that disconnects the passenger side axle shaft from the axle, allowing the side gears in the diff to spin and not engage the ring and pinion, reducing rolling resistance when in 2wd. This is basically the modern version of manual locking hubs.

If you have a Limited or an after 2013 (IIRC, might be 2014) SR5, you'll have an electronically actuated transfer case (buttons or switch instead of a manual shifter), which you should use regularly. TEs and early SR5 have manual transfer case actuation, but still need to exercise the ADD.

Yes, I have the limited. From watching a couple videos online and doing some reading, to go from H4F to H4L, I can be at any speed (or even a stop?) and I can just switch back and forth between the 2? But while I'm on H4L I shouldn't go faster than 50mph?

However, to go from H4L to L4L, I have to be at a complete stop, foot on brake, shift to neutral, turn switch to L4L, shift back to drive, then drive at speeds no more than 10mph?

Switching between these settings can be done on regular dry pavement right (I don't have any random dirt roads nearby where I can do this at)? Oh and only go in a straight line?

Thanks for all the help guys!