Just lifted, cam bolts are seized, can't adjust caster/camber

Hey all,
Just lifted my vehicle with OME885s in the front, and FJ coils + a Daystar in the back. Anyways, took it in for an alignment and the LCA cam bolts are seized, all four of em (both bolts, both sides). No surprise there, really, considering how difficult it was to install the suspension.

Anyways, here's the numbers I got:
5N4UoLB.jpg


So the camber isn't bad, it's liveable, but the the caster is off by about 1.5°. Reading, it seems like replacing the seized bolts are a pain, albeit doable.

Can I just replace the UCAs and achieve the right numbers that way? They have adjustment past the numbers I need, but is it the same thing?

Let me know! Thanks!
 
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Hey all,
Just lifted my vehicle with OME885s in the front, and FJ coils + a Daystar in the back. Anyways, took it in for an alignment and the LCA cam bolts are seized, all four of em (both bolts, both sides). No surprise there, really, considering how difficult it was to install the suspension.

Anyways, here's the numbers I got:
5N4UoLB.jpg


So the camber isn't bad, it's liveable, but the the caster is off by about 1.5°. Reading, it seems like replacing the seized bolts are a pain, albeit doable.

Can I just replace the UCAs and achieve the right numbers that way? They have adjustment past the numbers I need, but is it the same thing?

Let me know! Thanks!

I hate to be "that guy", but you need to replace the LCA bushings or the entire arm on both sides. You will also need to replace all of the alignment components too. EXACT same thing happened to me. Not really a way around replacing things in this situation. It is a very common issue with our trucks. Think of your tires.

Also, it's not incredibly expensive if you do bushings and alignment gear. This is assuming you do the work yourself.
 
The UCA wont fix your camber issue, just the caster issue.

You'll need both UCA's and Lower control arm bolts.

If its time to replace the bushings on the lower control arms, its faily easy to cut out the LCA and replace the whole control arm and add new bolts.

It also seems that your better off buying Toyota LCA over after market.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/147784-lower-control-arm-replacements-5.html

I pulled some out of a junk yard from a low mile 4runner and slapped them in last weekend. Started at 9am and was done by noon. Buy good sawzall blades.

You could also buy some new poly bushings and replace the bushing as well and buy new spc cam bolts (moog ones are junk).

Best of luck!
 
I hate to be "that guy", but you need to replace the LCA bushings or the entire arm on both sides. You will also need to replace all of the alignment components too. EXACT same thing happened to me. Not really a way around replacing things in this situation. It is a very common issue with our trucks. Think of your tires.

Also, it's not incredibly expensive if you do bushings and alignment gear. This is assuming you do the work yourself.

Man, I figured that was the case. Okay, so then, just to be sure, I need to have 4 of all these components, right?

afknipa.jpg


I'm supposed to be going on a 3 week road trip in this guy in 3 weeks... is it wise to drive that much on this adjustment. The toe is even, which mostly affects the tread. I'm not entirely sure I'd be able to get to it in the next 3 weeks :/.
 
A lot of people in those threads seem to live by the OEM bolts/bushings. The SPC ones should be fine though, in theory.

Okay, so if we go with those, two of those, and replacement arms (with new bushings + joint), what else would I need?

How much experience do you have wrenching? Replacing the UCA and LCA bushings is not an easy job. It is hard and a PITA. In fact, the dealers I've talked with won't do it they will only replace the entire control arm which is a lot more expensive. Once you get new bushings in, the truck will ride sooo much better.

I used Energy Suspension in my 3rd gen and no problems.
 
How much experience do you have wrenching? Replacing the UCA and LCA bushings is not an easy job. It is hard and a PITA. In fact, the dealers I've talked with won't do it they will only replace the entire control arm which is a lot more expensive. Once you get new bushings in, the truck will ride sooo much better.

I used Energy Suspension in my 3rd gen and no problems.

I'd have help replacing it with two of my car buddies. Anyways, I'm talking about replacing the entire control arm anyways. I'd like to skip replacing the bushings individually because I know it's a giant PITA.

Really, I need a somewhat "temp" fix so I can get on the road with this thing in the next three weeks. What I will likely do is get new cheaper LCAs, maintain my OEM LCAs so I can later swap out the bushings/joint, and then when the cheapo ones start ****ing up, I can put the rehabbed OEM back in.
 
How many miles do you have on these things? Do you do any off-roading/bumpy stuff? Or mostly pavement?

Less than 1000, but I was just off road last weekend doing a bunch of fast fire road as well as black diamond stuff, probably close to 60-80 miles in dirt. [MENTION=101553]t-man[/MENTION] has had them awhile though I believe.
 
Less than 1000, but I was just off road last weekend doing a bunch of fast fire road as well as black diamond stuff, probably close to 60-80 miles in dirt. [MENTION=101553]t-man[/MENTION] has had them awhile though I believe.

Interesting. I'm thinking maybe get something cheapo like these, and then if they **** up on the trip (I'm driving about 5-6K miles!), I can just swap them back out with rehabbed OEM LCAs later.

So say I just got the LCAs rather than all the rods and stuff. I need the nut, washer, bolt, and adjustment plate? Or are those plates included on the LCA?

Thanks ahead of time everyone for helping on this, I'm fairly new when it comes to suspension.
 
Interesting. I'm thinking maybe get something cheapo like these, and then if they **** up on the trip (I'm driving about 5-6K miles!), I can just swap them back out with rehabbed OEM LCAs later.

So say I just got the LCAs rather than all the rods and stuff. I need the nut, washer, bolt, and adjustment plate? Or are those plates included on the LCA?

Thanks ahead of time everyone for helping on this, I'm fairly new when it comes to suspension.

That eBay kit comes with everything regardless. I haven't swapped my tie rod ends yet, but it's nice to have as back ups as needed. Doesn't come with the bolts or adjustment plates, you'll still need to source those from somewhere. Mine weren't seized so I just reused them. They were a tad rusty on the inside and in hindsight I probably should have throw some grease in there.
 
That eBay kit comes with everything regardless. I haven't swapped my tie rod ends yet, but it's nice to have as back ups as needed. Doesn't come with the bolts or adjustment plates, you'll still need to source those from somewhere. Mine weren't seized so I just reused them. They were a tad rusty on the inside and in hindsight I probably should have throw some grease in there.

Gotcha, okay. I'm just trying to save as much as possible, so I don't want to buy more than I need, ya know? At the same time, it would be nice to have these in case for later. I'm pretty sure my plates are ****ed, so I'd need new ones. I'll have to check.

I'm wary on eBay parts, but I mean, stamped steel is stamped steel. It's hard to **** that up.
 
Gotcha, okay. I'm just trying to save as much as possible, so I don't want to buy more than I need, ya know? At the same time, it would be nice to have these in case for later. I'm pretty sure my plates are ****ed, so I'd need new ones. I'll have to check.

I'm wary on eBay parts, but I mean, stamped steel is stamped steel. It's hard to **** that up.

Definitely. I kept my stock LCAs and plan to rebuild them at some point as well just in case.
 
How many miles do you have on these things? Do you do any off-roading/bumpy stuff? Or mostly pavement?
I have roughly 25k on them, and I wheel it often and drive over 700 miles a week for work down the interstate at 80-90 mph with 35's. No issues with them. In fact my spc uca balljoints were replaced at the same time and are the only part giving me an issue. Do what drunner said and buy that kit. I forget who, but someone sells the cam bolts that have a grease fitting on them. Get those if possible, it's worth it, especially if you go offroad.
Also, buy the best high quality Sawzall blade you can made for cutting high strength steel. Those cam bolts are tough! I ended up using a 4" grinder w/ cutoff wheel. Cut great, but not enough room in there. Blades will be expensive but completely worth it!

Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.
 
If you are looking for OEM parts, here are all of the part numbers from when I did my LCA/cam replacement:

nqKKwm3dTRTj5g8Mwn0NMNzJpez7dznxsszutqPWggEn0HyAo66CGYLuAf6CxwpQXOpyYbH3NCagd9djYOVaXdHK-bWIvFY7-MchZtqEW9Bc9EqhyKJPiRhpXccXCP3n_gO46SGROy-HdJmTnlJl244Hi_JCqZzc5OtKyi0xbPjfSCdgSOpn9Qq6B5sFHXKFHMcpCmqOz6qAysX1Fccd7td-W0Fn1KkDdkOpa5sffwjeP025Lx3m8RWF6nm0yHFRS3nbC0XFbWBptddvv0rGGgzbQ-zo9b6R0CDq6MDkQmGLHVloYm-c6NscezHuRgVKVO84z7kU0GApMr93SkPNk8HRYUUnarse-WeAmYLDUO2jL8fX6kR2cCRBUEflwRiU773vSs9eQmAEImP1pb-QiAwlh6Ie94OOg6G449t5cdiuV6MigGaZNL4aPNbuuqUO_BgsemIchzPNUmvHM2qy4fRMuJez72WPpqgNPp4i8xU7Gno1DVugWdfKZoazjjBRC-ZmKHuINrtYHekgthUIKbJyjTtmQpw2oNwTA2V_bD4LbMcDFHp4znEs61wTJYlCw1IxIXCv0cRxPsdcgY-dKkld-HGaoFg=w673-h408-no


Your plan to replace the LCA is good and will definitely improve your alignment numbers, but be aware that due to the lift it might be impossible to get the alignment where you want it without aftermarket UCA's.
 
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I have roughly 25k on them, and I wheel it often and drive over 700 miles a week for work down the interstate at 80-90 mph with 35's. No issues with them. In fact my spc uca balljoints were replaced at the same time and are the only part giving me an issue. Do what drunner said and buy that kit. I forget who, but someone sells the cam bolts that have a grease fitting on them. Get those if possible, it's worth it, especially if you go offroad.
Also, buy the best high quality Sawzall blade you can made for cutting high strength steel. Those cam bolts are tough! I ended up using a 4" grinder w/ cutoff wheel. Cut great, but not enough room in there. Blades will be expensive but completely worth it!

Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.

**** yeah, awesome dude! That makes me feel a gazillion times better. :)

It looks like MOOG makes the greaseable cam bolts, and everyone says to avoid those with a 10 foot pole. The SPC ones aren't greaseable, but are likely the ones I'll go with.

I got a buddy with a sawzall, so I'll buy blades if necessary, but I think we should have it. Is it a pain to get the back bolt off without chopping off the LCA? I'd like to keep it for rehab later.
 
**** yeah, awesome dude! That makes me feel a gazillion times better. :)

It looks like MOOG makes the greaseable cam bolts, and everyone says to avoid those with a 10 foot pole. The SPC ones aren't greaseable, but are likely the ones I'll go with.

I got a buddy with a sawzall, so I'll buy blades if necessary, but I think we should have it. Is it a pain to get the back bolt off without chopping off the LCA? I'd like to keep it for rehab later.
I have the spc cam bolts and they are good. I personally just like the greasable option. I don't know why the moog ones would be bad, I've heard that about balljoints from moog, but I really don't know there.
I painted my lca's red to match everything and you can see in my pic the abuse they get. Lol
You'll need to pull the front skid plate, but you should have no issue with cutting just the bolts out and not hurting the lca.
54bd21e13b78e2e81ef9dad019761028.jpg


Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.
 

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