KC off-road lights..need help with install

[wyldejackyl]

Hey all,

I've had the lights installed on this truck for months now, but stopped as it was cold out when I did the original work. The lights are in, the relay mounted, and the wiring from the battery to the relay completed (that'll be switched to the lights when the relay is energized). Now all I have to add is the switch in the cockpit along with a Hot-In-Run +12v source for the relay power. I can figure everything else out, but I'd like to know where you guys grab your +12v power from for accessories? I don't need much current, barely anything at all..just enough to switch on the relay. I was thinking the lighter socket, but that's all the way into the center console of the '04, and I haven't the slightest how to take it apart. I know I can run a lead right off the battery, but I'd prefer to have the supply dead when the ignition is off (my dad will forget the lights are on, for sure).

Any ideas? I've never worked on a 4runner before besides brakes, so if you tell me to "use the lighter socket" you're going to have to tell me how to get all this trim crap off. The last 4x4 I worked on was a Wrangler, and it was so much easier (and stripped down) than this thing is!

Thanks for your help!

 

[nserpa9248]

getting +12v at your ignition harness would probably be the easiest thing to get to

either the white/blue wire or the (heavy gauge) red wire are +12v constant.

Those wires will come right out of the ignition switch..

 

[wyldejackyl]

Right, but I need +12v only when the ignition is on. What color is that one, the white/blue wire?

 

[nserpa9248]

accessory is WHITE / GREEN

and

ignition is BLACK / RED

 

[wyldejackyl]

Outstanding! Thanks so much for the color coding info. Now, how to get the dash apart? I noticed two screws below the knee panel (below the steering column). I'm guessing these two come out, then the thing hinges up and out. Are there any other screws? I think I recall seeing one or two through the fuse panel on the left side, but I thought those held the fuse box itself..not the knee panel.

What would you recommend using to tap into it? I was just going to strip a portion of the wire, solder my lead onto it, then heat shrink over that. I've used Scotch taps before but have had reliability issues (probably due to the fact that my jeep saw more mud in a year than most did in their lifetimes!).

 

[nserpa9248]

should be (4)10mm "bolts" holding on the underdash panel.

Stripping, soldering, and heat-shrinking is your best bet. Make sure the heat shrink covers 1/2 to 3/4 inch over the connection you made so that the heat shrink can get a nice snug grip

 

[wyldejackyl]

Yep, that's what I usually do. Prior to heatshrinking, if I have it available, I usually also apply some liquid electrical tape to make sure that if moisture gets in there somehow that it won't corrode the solder joint.

I will look for the other two bolts I seem to be missing, thanks for the help!

Oh, and one more thing: do I need to worry about the airbags at all?

 

[nserpa9248]

yes always.

If you see wires wrapped in yellow stay away.

I would pick up a $20 digital multi-meter and test any wires you go touching first..

setting an airbag off isnt pretty

 

[wyldejackyl]

Wrapped in yellow- at least they are color-coding them. I'll make sure to avoid them. I have a DMM; the reason I asked for the wire color in the first place was to avoid pricking every wire underneath the dash looking for a good one. I originally wanted to avoid tapping into the ignition wiring (previous times I've done this I've ran into problems), but since it was recommended, I'll give it a go. Much easier than running a lead to the 12v socket in the console though- that's for sure.

Thanks for your help!

And yet another thing: Those three holes to the left of the steering wheel. There's a traction control or locking center diff button or something there, and a couple other blanks. I'm intending at this point to drill into the blank and dremel out some of the structure on the back so I can fit the light switch there. However, the install would be cleaner if I could find a stock on/off switch to fit there (on other cars, I've used fog light switches). Does Toyota make a toggle or something that'll snap right into that hole and take the place of that blank entirely?

 

[Uneek]

However, the install would be cleaner if I could find a stock on/off switch to fit there (on other cars, I've used fog light switches). Does Toyota make a toggle or something that'll snap right into that hole and take the place of that blank entirely?

Yes, there is a factory switch you can use. The 2005+ Tacoma has a foglight switch which is the exactly same as the rest of the switches along that panel. It's not a toggle switch, but similar to the center diff-lock switch that it's recessed when pressed and pops out when pressed again. The 2005+ Tacoma has RR diff lock button, foglight, AC 110v/400w power switch (similar to the 4Runner's AC 110v switch for the center console) and clutch cancel switch, in case there's one that has better text or picture for what you're doing.

 

[wyldejackyl]

Alright, that's even better. I'll have to contact the dealer and get a part # from them. Is that the best place to buy, or is there another place that's better recommended for purchasing toyota parts? These people REAM their customers, and really could care less what they pay for parts. A belt tensioner for my wife's Vibe (it's a matrix part #) was close to $200- give me a break! :bash:

 

[nserpa9248]

the problem with a factory switch, is that you also need the plug that plugs into it (if the terminals / pins are not accessible) and now your looking at buying a switch, and the harness...

Your prob best off finding a high-quality switch, or hiding the switch...

 

[wyldejackyl]

Okay..forget that then. On my jeep the pins were easily accessible and were basically .250" spade lugs. I had the same deal with a couple previous VW's too..sometimes the pins were an off size so I just soldered the connection and heat-shrinked over it. No big deal. KC supplies a halfway decent lighted rocker anyway, I can probably incorporate that without it looking too funky.

If I get lucky and find one (junkyard or eBay or something) and it's cheap enough..I'll mess with it. Otherwise I'll just get a stock switch and fit it. No need to conceal the switch- it wouldn't be that easy to use then.

Thanks for the info guys!