KDSS Removal

S

SirWilliamGoes

New member
Has anyone explored this at all. I know with mid travel truck guys it's common to take off sway bars, has anyone ever looked into removing KDSS

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Not much to it. Remove the bars and let the pistons hang, or go all out and pull out the pistons and plumbing. De-solder the LED for the KDSS light in the gauge cluster or cover it with electrical tape.
 
Yea.. you just remove the sway bars.. It is required for any type of aftermarket long/mid travel front LCAs...

The more difficult task is trying to put standard sway bars in it...
 
I removed my KDSS swaybars quite some time ago. I removed the sway bars, compressed the piston and strapped it with wire cable and Crosby clamps to keep it in that position. This was a quick way to remove and keep the possibility of reinstallation later, if desired. I have no real desire due to how the KDSS limits travel.
 
Jeremy556 said:
Not much to it. Remove the bars and let the pistons hang, or go all out and pull out the pistons and plumbing. De-solder the LED for the KDSS light in the gauge cluster or cover it with electrical tape.
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Yep, that's all there is to it...I believe there is a fuse that can be pulled for the KDSS too, but haven't spent too much time looking for it. All the lights that are on in my dash are caused by me, so I know what they are...tire pressure, kdss.

OP: Just be careful with the body roll if you haven't added stiffer coils to your suspension. Most of the responses here are all pretty built rigs, which yours may be as well...but it can be a significant change for someone still on stock suspension or softer coils. :thumb3:
 
Sell the parts to pay for other mods. With the unreliability I read about, and the high cost of parts, you should be able to get a lot of $ from the parts.
 
rochmpr said:
I removed my KDSS swaybars quite some time ago. I removed the sway bars, compressed the piston and strapped it with wire cable and Crosby clamps to keep it in that position. This was a quick way to remove and keep the possibility of reinstallation later, if desired. I have no real desire due to how the KDSS limits travel.
Click to expand...

did the dummy lights come on using this method? if i ditched mine, this is the route i was thinking of going. thanks
 
Why turn the thread into drama.... ? The guy asked a simple question and got some useful input about strapping the pistons. Someone might actually learn a useful trick to avoid dash llights... if we can stay out of the weeds.
 
I was partly serious. If you can get $2K for the parts - why would you leave them on? That's a front locker or a big dent in the cost of a LT setup. Each cylinder is probably worth $500, and the accumulator is probably worth another $500-1000. You'll have to wait a while because there's very little market - but I'm sure someone at some point will need parts.

I wouldn't leave them on.

If you want a softer sway bar - a straight bar would fit right where the front KDSS is already at. An anti-rock could be mounted right there with a softer flex and a disconnect. Of course it won't be a bolt on kit - you'd have to do some fab work. You could run one in the back too. The rear end is not a good design to run without one. The spring spacing is way too narrow.
 
rochmpr said:
I removed my KDSS swaybars quite some time ago. I removed the sway bars, compressed the piston and strapped it with wire cable and Crosby clamps to keep it in that position. This was a quick way to remove and keep the possibility of reinstallation later, if desired. I have no real desire due to how the KDSS limits travel.
Click to expand...

PLEASE provide some more info about this and your experience.

How is the ride without any sway bars? Is it much softer in the straights and a lot of body roll in the corners?

Thank you,
 
TRDORmike said:
PLEASE provide some more info about this and your experience.

How is the ride without any sway bars? Is it much softer in the straights and a lot of body roll in the corners?

Thank you,
Click to expand...

I will have to get some up close pictures as to how I did this.

As for the handling, it is a very heavy, lifted rig with a high COG. It handles just short of a drunken pig going around a corner. There is a fair amount of body roll. With the altered state and modifications, one has to drive with this always knowing how the vehicle reacts. There is a learning curve at first until you have got a feel, as with any vehicle.

Springs and rates will help with some of the body roll, but it will never be like having sway bars, ever!

I just did a 3,200 mile road trip with myself, wife, two kids, two dogs and luggage for the week with no issues. Lots of highway miles with some windy roads. Never had an issue, but I know how the truck handles and what are safe speeds.
 
e60ral said:
lol, the "unreliability i read about"
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So unreliable... I just put aside money every year to have my entire KDSS system replaced... and don't get me started on how easy the KDSS sway bars bend...

For those of you who don't know, this is an example of sarcasm...
 
Jetboy said:
I was partly serious. If you can get $2K for the parts - why would you leave them on? That's a front locker or a big dent in the cost of a LT setup. Each cylinder is probably worth $500, and the accumulator is probably worth another $500-1000. You'll have to wait a while because there's very little market - but I'm sure someone at some point will need parts.

.
Click to expand...

Where can I designed these for 2k. I'll take them off and but stuffer coils
 
Its not exactly pretty, but it works. The reason for the turn buckle on the rear piston is to pull is back so the panhard does not hit the piston under compression.
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