KDSS warning indicator

[Mtbkr]

You have three main components for the front and rear KDSS:
1. Actuator Cylinder
2. Accumulator
3. Control Valve

If you are going to run it without the KDSS then you will need to substantially beef up the front and rear springs. The Actuator cylinder puts pressure on the front sway bar at speeds over around 12 mph that limits the torsion effect of that sway bar. Remember that the KDSS equipped vehicles have a different LCA and sway bar setup than the other 4Runners. Different mount point and different sway bar.

You sure you want to do this? Really really sure? You will effectively have to run heavy enough springs to compensate for the lack of sway bar. Let's just say the ride over interstate expansion joints or even worse, speed bumps, will be interesting to say the least.

You might want to search socaltrail's build thread, somewhere around the middle he was talking about doing away with KDSS and all the challenges. I don't remember if anyone else has done it.

I'm going to go out on a limb with this idea (but not under my vehicle to check it out because it is about 20 F and snowing), and maybe I'm stating the obvious.

I believe that all of the link points for the conventional sway bars are present on the Gen 5 4runner with KDSS.

I remember from doing my lift a couple of weeks ago that the steering knuckles have holes for the conventional sway bar links.

The difference between the lower control arms is the presence of the link point for the KDSS sway bar.

And I remember seeing the holes in the frame for front sway bar link points as illustrated in the pics from the FSM below (KDSS Left, Conventional Right) -

I'm not sure about the rear stabilizer link points (Conventional) -

Perhaps someone in this thread that lives in a warm climate can check out the rear and confirm if the conventional link points exist?

My point is it may be cheaper to remove a failed KDSS system and install the conventional sway bars.

 

[ShAwTWiN]

So, if I understand correctly, I would only have to swap the sway-bars from a SR5 and remove any unnecessary parts ?

 

[Mtbkr]

So, if I understand correctly, I would only have to swap the sway-bars from a SR5 and remove any unnecessary parts ?

No. I looked at the rear axle on my 2016 w/ KDSS and the mount points for the conventional sway bar are not present. Also the brackets to attach the end links to the frame are not present however the holes for the bracket are present (both in red below).

I also examined my front frame closer (circled in red in one of the pics in my original post). The holes are present but there is no internal threading or nut.

What I am saying is that it can be done but would require some welding. I'm sure a 4WD shop would do it.

 

[ShAwTWiN]

No. I looked at the rear axle on my 2016 w/ KDSS and the mount points for the conventional sway bar are not present. Also the brackets to attach the end links to the frame are not present however the holes for the bracket are present (both in red below).

I also examined my front frame closer (circled in red in one of the pics in my original post). The holes are present but there is no internal threading or nut.

What I am saying is that it can be done but would require some welding. I'm sure a 4WD shop would do it.

Thx for the info!

 

[96r50]

It's certainly possible that a good shop could duplicate the regular sway bar mounting points. However, by the time you pay them for the welding and fabrication and then buy two sway bars, four links and associated bushings and hardware I'd say you'll be looking at close to the same amount to repair the KDSS. Is it really worth the hassle?

For what it's worth, I was looking at the service manual the other day and it states that if the skid control ECU detects a problem with the KDSS system it shuts it down. What that means is anyone's guess though. I'll post the relevant page when I can get to a computer.

 

[Mtbkr]

It's certainly possible that a good shop could duplicate the regular sway bar mounting points. However, by the time you pay them for the welding and fabrication and then buy two sway bars, four links and associated bushings and hardware I'd say you'll be looking at close to the same amount to repair the KDSS. Is it really worth the hassle?

For what it's worth, I was looking at the service manual the other day and it states that if the skid control ECU detects a problem with the KDSS system it shuts it down. What that means is anyone's guess though. I'll post the relevant page when I can get to a computer.

Ripping out KDSS would definitely have a knock on effect and is probably break even with a costly repair.

Makes you stop and think about purchasing a Gen 5 with KDSS though. If you plan on keeping your 4Runner for more than 100K miles is KDSS worth the risk?

 

[ShAwTWiN]

How do you remove the friking plastic connector?

 

[Brandonium]

Well it's not like KDSS is some experimental suspension setup only introduced on the Gen 5 and serviced by black magic techs. There's a LOT of fear being tossed around about KDSS that treats it as such.

It's like any other advanced system on your car that might break and need servicing and there's more than a KDSS spell book to reference if the system needs parts and/or servicing-maintenance.

I mean does Toyota tell a Landcruiser owner who spent 80k+ on their KDSS equipped ride that they'll have to rip out the system after 100k if there are issues because there isn't the knowledge out there to service them...on a system that is implemented in many vehicles...for a manufacturer that makes vehicles for the entire world?

Ripping out KDSS would definitely have a knock on effect and is probably break even with a costly repair.

Makes you stop and think about purchasing a Gen 5 with KDSS though. If you plan on keeping your 4Runner for more than 100K miles is KDSS worth the risk?

 

[ShAwTWiN]

I'm not able to disconnect the connector from the actuator. Any tips on how to remove it?

 

[ShAwTWiN]

Bad news...

Finally disconnected the connector from the actuator and found out the same results from this forum: KDSS light flash and then on. 2010 GX 460 - Club Lexus Forums

#4 PIN is broken off the assembly and jammed (from corrosion) into male connector, wish is also broken:

https://docs.google.com/uc?export=&id=0B6hPitysrQNNcHR3V1ozYXdZdDg
https://docs.google.com/uc?export=&id=0B6hPitysrQNNWHA3c3NzdWFtR0E
https://docs.google.com/uc?export=&id=10aPz1UJBh-i9iDQS3qogg4eLIqIf-PbXhQ
https://docs.google.com/uc?export=&id=0B6hPitysrQNNWUExUGk0RFhvZ1U
https://docs.google.com/uc?export=&id=1MNIMcXp3vOY553ljUfHq8OU0x5oZrdtgDA
https://docs.google.com/uc?export=&id=0B6hPitysrQNNSkYxa2dPNW9IMEE
https://docs.google.com/uc?export=&id=1ItRIpDUdtKgSvxofdXTsd2NQcj_SAu9rfA
https://docs.google.com/uc?export=&id=0B6hPitysrQNNN2pGU1BCZWRydXM
https://docs.google.com/uc?export=&id=1ZrOSZx8zQH3KnFRB9lnCUZzpT6A70u9gCw
https://docs.google.com/uc?export=&id=0B6hPitysrQNNNWthYk56TXdRbDg
https://docs.google.com/uc?export=&id=183bUgsZGpvOyPv4D0ZtWnTC2gppk-nJg2A
https://docs.google.com/uc?export=&id=0B6hPitysrQNNdHc3RzZoc0RDTEU
https://docs.google.com/uc?export=&id=1MI2RD6D4_5xcu6LuM23g50ABbqt-ts286g
https://docs.google.com/uc?export=&id=0B6hPitysrQNNSFQ5ZXZLN0N4R1E
https://docs.google.com/uc?export=&id=1WoZpwXLbdJGZOOrJDz7btHJnDA4Ah1YI0Q
https://docs.google.com/uc?export=&id=0B6hPitysrQNNWkhKZklOdmZ2OVU
https://docs.google.com/uc?export=&id=1OBND89XS7yjmyJWRM2n9Qn1zAC_fOhApow
https://docs.google.com/uc?export=&id=0B6hPitysrQNNcnVaQmtWZWZubm8
https://docs.google.com/uc?export=&id=1qj7wfvIX56Zg2GOrifwki-nF1VCwygMT6Q


Any tips on how I can repair it for cheap ? Salvaged parts?


Thx!

 

[davidnadler]

KDSS problem 2013 4Runner

I have a 2013 4Runner with KDSS. The KDSS lights-up on the dash after 5 minutes of starting the car. This happens if the car is idling, or driving and always after just 5 minutes. If I turn off the engine and restart immediately the light illuminates after 5 minutes. I feel no difference in the drive. No leaning or rough ride. Anyone have a similar problem?

 

[GabrielM]

I have a 2013 4Runner with KDSS. The KDSS lights-up on the dash after 5 minutes of starting the car. This happens if the car is idling, or driving and always after just 5 minutes. If I turn off the engine and restart immediately the light illuminates after 5 minutes. I feel no difference in the drive. No leaning or rough ride. Anyone have a similar problem?

I did have the issue couple years back. My fix was to do a Zero-Point calibration.

Another club member just got the same issue, but his system is leaking. He need to replace it, at a hefty cost...

 

[TerraCrawler]

Can someone post to this thread a picture of the instrument cluster (2014+) with KDSS light illuminated? I believe if you just put the key in the ignition and turn it to Christmas tree the cluster, the KDSS light should be lit (don't start the truck, just make the cluster light up). I have searched the net but can't find a picture from a 2014+ of KDSS light location in the cluster. Much appreciated!

 

[ClevelandTrail]

I have the exact same issue as Shawtwin, C1812 and kdss light because of corrosion on the male and female sides of the connector, broken pins too. I bought a used accumalator, but how do I replace the connector that plugs into it? I cant find that on any parts list, do I just replace the end of the connector or the whole wiring harness?

 

[ClevelandTrail]

Im going to answer my own question just to help anyone in the future with this problem. I wasn't able to find the connector anywhere online , the parts Dept at my local dealer was able to find one, they charged me $60 for it which seems a bit ridiculous.

 

[tsneden]

What was the part number?

 

[Sleddr]

kdss connector corrosion

Digging up an old thread here. I have also just discovered that like many that live in cold, wetter areas that use salt in the winter, my KDSS electrical connectors have failed and I now have no sway bars. The male pins corroded and fused into the female connector and broke off.

My question is whether any one has had success fixing this issue without replacing the entire accumulator piece? The repair has been quoted as about $2000 to replace the accumulator and recharge the system.

The other question is around the female electrical connector, toyota doesnt seem to sell just the connector - they want to sell me the entire harness (another $2k) which is ridiculous. Has anyone been able to identify the connector and purchase one separately?

Any ideas or help much appreciated.

 

[1996_Valencia_Owen]

Cant help on the fix, but I read that FluidFilm makes for a good connector spray, to avoid corrossion there. If you get it fixed might be a good idea to spray some in.

 

[Sleddr]

Just info for anyone interested in trying to fix the KDSS themselves or fed up with poor service from dealers.

The electrical connector on the harness from the vehicle to the KDSS unit is 12303 - which is available separately. The individual wires with the female ends are also available separately - total cost around $100 cdn. Which seems insane for a wiring pigtail but compare to the entire harness, not so bad...

Now if only I could figure a way to jump the wiring on the KDSS unit and not have to replace it...

 

[alphabeast]

Last year I encased my KDSS accumulator and all electrical connections in Fluid Film amber. A friend of mine had his connectors corrode and the amount of nonsense and cost he had to go through to try and get his KDSS fixed was mind numbing...