Keeping a BLACK car shiny.
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Detail Guy
New member
Hi iForce!
Having owned a couple black vehicles, and having detailed hundereds of them, I certainly understand how difficult it is to keep black looking nice.
Having said that, I will tell you that one of the secret to keeping black vehicles looking good, is to minimize the swirls/spider web marks to begin with. Otherwise, you are will always be spending a lot of time polishing them out.
The first thing you need to do is re-evaluate your washing, drying, and QD'ing products, tools, and techniques. If you need further info on that, let us know. I firmly believe that the majority of swirls are caused by improper washing/drying/tools/products.
As for the polishes, glazes, and waxes........... there really aren't any products made 'specifically" for black. However, there are products that seem to 'look' better on black............ depending on who's doing the looking. Anyhow, I'm not sure what's available up in your neck of the woods, but here are some suggestions of stuff you might be able to find:
Meguiar's DACP (requires at least at PC, rotary is better)
Meguiar's #9 SMR (for lighter swirls - can be done by hand)
Meguiar's #7 glaze
Meguiar's #26 Hi Tech Yellow Wax (carnauba)
To be honest, you might need more protection based on where you live, and this combo may suit you better.
Meguiar's #9 or Meguiar's ColorX (depending on how bad the swirls are)
Meguiar's NXT (2 coats 24 hours apart)
Meguiar's #26 (Top the NXT if you want more of a carnauba look)
Another one:
Mother's Cleaner/SMR
Mother's Sealer & Glaze
Mother's California Gold Carnauba Wax.
I believe Poorboy's products are available in Canada, and I highly recommend them........... here's a nice combo:
SSR2.5 (If the swirls are really bad - requires a PC, or rotary)
SSR2 (If the swirls are lighter - can be used by hand)
SSR1 (Use as a glaze, or for extremely light swirls)
EX-P Sealant or EX Sealant with carnauba (The EX usually looks better on black, but EX-P lasts longer - use two coats)
Natty's Wax (A nice carnauba wax to top the EX-P or EX)
Hope this helps.
Having owned a couple black vehicles, and having detailed hundereds of them, I certainly understand how difficult it is to keep black looking nice.
Having said that, I will tell you that one of the secret to keeping black vehicles looking good, is to minimize the swirls/spider web marks to begin with. Otherwise, you are will always be spending a lot of time polishing them out.
The first thing you need to do is re-evaluate your washing, drying, and QD'ing products, tools, and techniques. If you need further info on that, let us know. I firmly believe that the majority of swirls are caused by improper washing/drying/tools/products.
As for the polishes, glazes, and waxes........... there really aren't any products made 'specifically" for black. However, there are products that seem to 'look' better on black............ depending on who's doing the looking. Anyhow, I'm not sure what's available up in your neck of the woods, but here are some suggestions of stuff you might be able to find:
Meguiar's DACP (requires at least at PC, rotary is better)
Meguiar's #9 SMR (for lighter swirls - can be done by hand)
Meguiar's #7 glaze
Meguiar's #26 Hi Tech Yellow Wax (carnauba)
To be honest, you might need more protection based on where you live, and this combo may suit you better.
Meguiar's #9 or Meguiar's ColorX (depending on how bad the swirls are)
Meguiar's NXT (2 coats 24 hours apart)
Meguiar's #26 (Top the NXT if you want more of a carnauba look)
Another one:
Mother's Cleaner/SMR
Mother's Sealer & Glaze
Mother's California Gold Carnauba Wax.
I believe Poorboy's products are available in Canada, and I highly recommend them........... here's a nice combo:
SSR2.5 (If the swirls are really bad - requires a PC, or rotary)
SSR2 (If the swirls are lighter - can be used by hand)
SSR1 (Use as a glaze, or for extremely light swirls)
EX-P Sealant or EX Sealant with carnauba (The EX usually looks better on black, but EX-P lasts longer - use two coats)
Natty's Wax (A nice carnauba wax to top the EX-P or EX)
Hope this helps.
iFORCE
New member
that's awesome! thanks.
well.. let me tell you how i wash my car so I can minimize those swirl marks.
1) Drive into a wand-wash bay
2) Utilize the Pre-Soak function (whole car)
3) Utilize the engine cleaner/tire cleaner
4) Let sit for a minute
5) Turn knob to Soap function (whole car and underbody)
6) Turn knob to rinse (whole car and underbody)
7) Dry major areas with California Water Blade
8) Wipe nooks and crannies with a real chamois
I do'nt know what the verdict is on the water blade.... i decided to try it but since your the expert... if you recommend anything else or any thing i'm doing wrong.. please let me know. This is my first black car.
other ones were silver.... sooo much easier to clean.
Thanks!
well.. let me tell you how i wash my car so I can minimize those swirl marks.
1) Drive into a wand-wash bay
2) Utilize the Pre-Soak function (whole car)
3) Utilize the engine cleaner/tire cleaner
4) Let sit for a minute
5) Turn knob to Soap function (whole car and underbody)
6) Turn knob to rinse (whole car and underbody)
7) Dry major areas with California Water Blade
8) Wipe nooks and crannies with a real chamois
I do'nt know what the verdict is on the water blade.... i decided to try it but since your the expert... if you recommend anything else or any thing i'm doing wrong.. please let me know. This is my first black car.
other ones were silver.... sooo much easier to clean.Thanks!
Detail Guy
New member
iForce,
OK, a couple things...........
Again, I understand that you don't have much of a choice but to use the touchless car wash during the winter months. I have the same situation here in NE PA............. salt, sand, slush, sleet and everything else.
Anyhow, let me make a couple of suggestions. First, I would NOT dry your vehicle with the Water Blade or chamois after using the touchess wash. There will still be a lot of dirt on the paint, and wiping with the Water Blade, and/or chamois will cause scratches/spider web marks for sure. To prove this, the next time you wash, and rinse at that wash, take along a small white towel, and wipe a tiny area in an inconspicuous spot after the wash.............. I bet the towel will be covered with dirt/salt/crap! You don't want the WB or chamois draging that stuff across the surface on any color........ but especially on black!
Here a couple of options:
1. Use the touchless wash to get most of the loose dirt and stuff off the paint. Don't dry the vehicle with anything........... drive it dry. Then, the first chance you get, do a good thorough hand washing to remove "ALL" the dirt before you dry.
2. If you can, pick up a BUNCH of good high quality MF towels, and a good waterless wash like QEW (Quick Easy Wash - Made by Protect All), or Poorboy's Spray & Wipe. There may be others up in your area.
Now, after the wash, follow the directions for using the waterless wash you have. With the S & W, you mist some on a small area, and then very lightly wipe with one MF towel, and then wipe lightly again with another MF towel. With the QEW, you mix an ounce or so into a gallon of water, and use a wash mitt (or two) to dip into the wash, and lightly wipe a small section clean. Then, you wipe dry with an MF towel. Both the S & W, and QEW have the ability to emulsify the dirt, and excellent lubrication to minmize swirls when wiping.
Lastly, if you do hand wash (at any time), and would like, I have an article that I wrote up for another site that provides some great tips on washing/drying and minmizing spider web marks......... I could post it if I can find it?
P.S. I'm not a real big fan of the Water Blade, especially on black. I prefer high quality Waffle Weave towels. However, if you are going to use the WB, make sure the vehicle has lots of water on the surface......... that seems to help. Don't drag the water blade over dry paint! Also, if you use the chamois (even on clean paint), I recommend using it only to 'blot' an area dry.............. not wipe. Sorry, I'm just picky about this stuff.
OK, a couple things...........
Again, I understand that you don't have much of a choice but to use the touchless car wash during the winter months. I have the same situation here in NE PA............. salt, sand, slush, sleet and everything else.
Anyhow, let me make a couple of suggestions. First, I would NOT dry your vehicle with the Water Blade or chamois after using the touchess wash. There will still be a lot of dirt on the paint, and wiping with the Water Blade, and/or chamois will cause scratches/spider web marks for sure. To prove this, the next time you wash, and rinse at that wash, take along a small white towel, and wipe a tiny area in an inconspicuous spot after the wash.............. I bet the towel will be covered with dirt/salt/crap! You don't want the WB or chamois draging that stuff across the surface on any color........ but especially on black!
Here a couple of options:
1. Use the touchless wash to get most of the loose dirt and stuff off the paint. Don't dry the vehicle with anything........... drive it dry. Then, the first chance you get, do a good thorough hand washing to remove "ALL" the dirt before you dry.
2. If you can, pick up a BUNCH of good high quality MF towels, and a good waterless wash like QEW (Quick Easy Wash - Made by Protect All), or Poorboy's Spray & Wipe. There may be others up in your area.
Now, after the wash, follow the directions for using the waterless wash you have. With the S & W, you mist some on a small area, and then very lightly wipe with one MF towel, and then wipe lightly again with another MF towel. With the QEW, you mix an ounce or so into a gallon of water, and use a wash mitt (or two) to dip into the wash, and lightly wipe a small section clean. Then, you wipe dry with an MF towel. Both the S & W, and QEW have the ability to emulsify the dirt, and excellent lubrication to minmize swirls when wiping.
Lastly, if you do hand wash (at any time), and would like, I have an article that I wrote up for another site that provides some great tips on washing/drying and minmizing spider web marks......... I could post it if I can find it?
P.S. I'm not a real big fan of the Water Blade, especially on black. I prefer high quality Waffle Weave towels. However, if you are going to use the WB, make sure the vehicle has lots of water on the surface......... that seems to help. Don't drag the water blade over dry paint! Also, if you use the chamois (even on clean paint), I recommend using it only to 'blot' an area dry.............. not wipe. Sorry, I'm just picky about this stuff.
Last edited:
iFORCE
New member
So what's the best way to wash a car... hand wash? I believe there are bylaws here against washing cars on driveways as it gets into the sewers or something...
so.. let me see if i've learned anything yet..
waterblade - if i HAVE to...
chamoise - only blot
Microfiber cloths - to be used with "quick detailer" stuff...
so.. i should just wash my car and just drive really fast? or that i need to make sure I handwash it.. I have no problems doing that at the wand-wash places...
Could you also try and look for that hand wash guide too? need to know what i need to bring to wash my car. thanks.
so.. let me see if i've learned anything yet..
waterblade - if i HAVE to...
chamoise - only blot
Microfiber cloths - to be used with "quick detailer" stuff...
so.. i should just wash my car and just drive really fast? or that i need to make sure I handwash it.. I have no problems doing that at the wand-wash places...
Could you also try and look for that hand wash guide too? need to know what i need to bring to wash my car. thanks.
Detail Guy
New member
Yea, my preference is a as follows: Hand wash when really dirty, QEW when moderately dirty, and Spray & Wipe when lightly dirty.
Now, if your area doesn't allow hand washing in the driveway, you are up against a double edged sword, as most car washes frown upon you "hand washing" in there bays. I do it back here, but I always do it late at night, or early in the morning when I'm not going to be holding anybody up in line.
In your case, I would see if you can find the QEW, or similar, as you could use it in your driveway without issues.
OK, I did find one of the articles I wrote. Although, because of your situation, I don't know if it will help you much, but here goes anyway............ (sit back and grab a cold one for this article )
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
One of the most overlooked areas of paint care is washing. Improper washing is probably the biggest cause of swirls/spider webs marks. (the enemy of that sought after "perfect finish")
Keep in mind that these are only my recommendations, and work well for me. There are slight variations of the tools/products and process that also work well.
Tools & products:
Car wash shampoo
2 Car wash mitts (or more) (Trim off any labels before using - they can scratch)
2 - 5 gallon wash buckets
Wheel brush if you wish/need
Tire Brush
1 or 2 Waffle Weave drying towels (Trim off any labels before using)
Buy the best car wash you can get................ NO, they are not all the same. Some have more lubrication, clean safer, contain water softeners, and add gloss instead of removing it............. etc. Same thing goes for the towels....... some will scratch, and some won't. Don't scrimp on the quality of ANYTHING that touches your vehicle........... period!!!!!!!!!!
Get yourself several (not just one) high quality wash mitts. 100% cotton is great, as are high quality lambs wool/sheepskin mitts. Don't "overuse" your mitts either. Once they have been used several times on the paint, relegate/dedicate them to a dirtier chore like the wheels, and never use on the paint that is used for the wheels, or other grungy areas. Don't forget to trim any "labels" off them before using.
Process:
Now, rinse the vehicle well, to remove as much loose dirt as possible. I like to angle my spray, so as not to drive the dirt into the paint. Rinse off the loose dirt from the top of the vehicle, and work your way down.
Next, mix the "proper" mix of car wash in a clean and rinsed bucket. PROPER is a key word here. Follow the manufacturer's mix ratio. Don't just dump in a big "glob" of car wash in the bucket. Using too much car wash can strip the existing protective wax from the finish, and can leave soap residue on the paint even after a thorough rinsing. If you have to "buff" off that residue, you can induce more spider web marks. Using to little car wash might lessen the lubrication and other benefits of the car wash product.
When washing the vehicle's paint, starting from the top of the vehicle, and working your way down is the preferred method. This helps to float the dirt and suds down/off the paint.
Use the "two bucket" method to wash............. one bucket with the suds, and one bucket to rinse the mitt thoroughly after EVERY panel. This keeps much of the dirt in the bottom of the rinse bucket, and not on the mitt, or in the suds bucket. An optional "Grit Guard" insert in the rinse bucket is a nice addition, as it keeps the mitt away from the dirt that was rinsed off. I also use the two-bucket method on the wheels, wheel wells, tires, and "grungy" areas. If you still see dirt on the mitt when you pull the mitt out of the rinse bucket, take your hose, hold the mitt by the elastic cuff (or one end) and spray the mitt at an angle to force the remaining dirt "off" the mitt, and not "into" the mitt.
Use a "light touch" with all your washing/drying process. Dip you mitt down into the bucket and get plenty of water on the mitt. The water will help flush the dirt off the surface, and the water will contain the lubrication from the car wash soap. Don't scrub, or use too much pressure with the mitt or towels. However, sure you are very thorough when washing.......... get ALL the dirt off. If you don't, when you dry the vehicle, you may be "rubbing" dirt as you are drying. If you are using the right car wash, and mitt, the mitt should "glide" over the surface and remove the dirt. Also, only wash one panel (or half panel – depending on size, or how dirty the mitt looks) at a time. Don’t be “fooled” by a mitt that holds a lot of suds. The mitt may have accumulated a lot of dirt, and there still may be a lot of suds/water in the mitt…………… rinse it out. Don’t try and wash half the vehicle with one dip into the suds bucket.
Start by washing, and rinsing your tires, wheels, wheel wells, and "grungy" dirty areas with a separate mitt(s) and proper brushes. Never use the same mitt that you use on those areas........... on the paint. If you do, you will "guarantee" yourself some very nice swirl marks and scratches. Use a high quality tire brush to scrub the tires with your favorite tire cleaner.
Occasionally, when the vehicle is very dirty (often the lower half of the bottom panels), you will want to dump out the suds, and rinse bucket, refill with a fresh bucket of suds, and fresh rinse water, and grab a clean mitt to finish washing.
Keep the paint wet, until you've washed all panels to minimize water spots. Then, remove the nozzle from the hose, and use a steady stream of water to rinse the entire vehicle. This will minimize the standing water, and allow for easier drying, and less water spotting. This is a very important step. The less wiping of the paint you need to do, the better off you are, as the less you touch the paint, the less likely you are to create swirls/spider web marks.
Use high quality towels to dry your vehicle. The new Waffle Weave towels are great for this. Blot most of the water up, and then "lightly" and “slowly” wipe any remaining water. I like to use two WW towels…… one to blot, and one to wipe any excess after blotting. Again, the less you “rub” something against the paint, the less you touch the paint, and the lighter you touch it, the less likely you are to induce swirls in the paint.
A great variation of the above drying technique is this………… flood rinse as above. Then, take a good QD, and mist it on the vehicle where you are going to blot, and lightly wipe dry. The QD will provide added lubrication, and will also help clean up any remaining dirt that you missed in the washing process……………. helping to minimize swirls! Plus, if the QD is one that adds some “POP”, you’ve already added that benefit.
When done washing and drying the vehicle, thoroughly wash, rinse, and air-dry, your wash mitts and towels after using. Using dirty mitt's and towels the next time you wash, defeats the whole purpose of even trying to do it right!
Anyhow, if you follow these steps, you'll spend a lot more time admiring that near "perfect finish", instead of polishing out swirls to get the finish back.
Happy washing!
Now, if your area doesn't allow hand washing in the driveway, you are up against a double edged sword, as most car washes frown upon you "hand washing" in there bays. I do it back here, but I always do it late at night, or early in the morning when I'm not going to be holding anybody up in line.
In your case, I would see if you can find the QEW, or similar, as you could use it in your driveway without issues.
OK, I did find one of the articles I wrote. Although, because of your situation, I don't know if it will help you much, but here goes anyway............ (sit back and grab a cold one for this article
)---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
One of the most overlooked areas of paint care is washing. Improper washing is probably the biggest cause of swirls/spider webs marks. (the enemy of that sought after "perfect finish")
Keep in mind that these are only my recommendations, and work well for me. There are slight variations of the tools/products and process that also work well.
Tools & products:
Car wash shampoo
2 Car wash mitts (or more) (Trim off any labels before using - they can scratch)
2 - 5 gallon wash buckets
Wheel brush if you wish/need
Tire Brush
1 or 2 Waffle Weave drying towels (Trim off any labels before using)
Buy the best car wash you can get................ NO, they are not all the same. Some have more lubrication, clean safer, contain water softeners, and add gloss instead of removing it............. etc. Same thing goes for the towels....... some will scratch, and some won't. Don't scrimp on the quality of ANYTHING that touches your vehicle........... period!!!!!!!!!!
Get yourself several (not just one) high quality wash mitts. 100% cotton is great, as are high quality lambs wool/sheepskin mitts. Don't "overuse" your mitts either. Once they have been used several times on the paint, relegate/dedicate them to a dirtier chore like the wheels, and never use on the paint that is used for the wheels, or other grungy areas. Don't forget to trim any "labels" off them before using.
Process:
Now, rinse the vehicle well, to remove as much loose dirt as possible. I like to angle my spray, so as not to drive the dirt into the paint. Rinse off the loose dirt from the top of the vehicle, and work your way down.
Next, mix the "proper" mix of car wash in a clean and rinsed bucket. PROPER is a key word here. Follow the manufacturer's mix ratio. Don't just dump in a big "glob" of car wash in the bucket. Using too much car wash can strip the existing protective wax from the finish, and can leave soap residue on the paint even after a thorough rinsing. If you have to "buff" off that residue, you can induce more spider web marks. Using to little car wash might lessen the lubrication and other benefits of the car wash product.
When washing the vehicle's paint, starting from the top of the vehicle, and working your way down is the preferred method. This helps to float the dirt and suds down/off the paint.
Use the "two bucket" method to wash............. one bucket with the suds, and one bucket to rinse the mitt thoroughly after EVERY panel. This keeps much of the dirt in the bottom of the rinse bucket, and not on the mitt, or in the suds bucket. An optional "Grit Guard" insert in the rinse bucket is a nice addition, as it keeps the mitt away from the dirt that was rinsed off. I also use the two-bucket method on the wheels, wheel wells, tires, and "grungy" areas. If you still see dirt on the mitt when you pull the mitt out of the rinse bucket, take your hose, hold the mitt by the elastic cuff (or one end) and spray the mitt at an angle to force the remaining dirt "off" the mitt, and not "into" the mitt.
Use a "light touch" with all your washing/drying process. Dip you mitt down into the bucket and get plenty of water on the mitt. The water will help flush the dirt off the surface, and the water will contain the lubrication from the car wash soap. Don't scrub, or use too much pressure with the mitt or towels. However, sure you are very thorough when washing.......... get ALL the dirt off. If you don't, when you dry the vehicle, you may be "rubbing" dirt as you are drying. If you are using the right car wash, and mitt, the mitt should "glide" over the surface and remove the dirt. Also, only wash one panel (or half panel – depending on size, or how dirty the mitt looks) at a time. Don’t be “fooled” by a mitt that holds a lot of suds. The mitt may have accumulated a lot of dirt, and there still may be a lot of suds/water in the mitt…………… rinse it out. Don’t try and wash half the vehicle with one dip into the suds bucket.
Start by washing, and rinsing your tires, wheels, wheel wells, and "grungy" dirty areas with a separate mitt(s) and proper brushes. Never use the same mitt that you use on those areas........... on the paint. If you do, you will "guarantee" yourself some very nice swirl marks and scratches. Use a high quality tire brush to scrub the tires with your favorite tire cleaner.
Occasionally, when the vehicle is very dirty (often the lower half of the bottom panels), you will want to dump out the suds, and rinse bucket, refill with a fresh bucket of suds, and fresh rinse water, and grab a clean mitt to finish washing.
Keep the paint wet, until you've washed all panels to minimize water spots. Then, remove the nozzle from the hose, and use a steady stream of water to rinse the entire vehicle. This will minimize the standing water, and allow for easier drying, and less water spotting. This is a very important step. The less wiping of the paint you need to do, the better off you are, as the less you touch the paint, the less likely you are to create swirls/spider web marks.
Use high quality towels to dry your vehicle. The new Waffle Weave towels are great for this. Blot most of the water up, and then "lightly" and “slowly” wipe any remaining water. I like to use two WW towels…… one to blot, and one to wipe any excess after blotting. Again, the less you “rub” something against the paint, the less you touch the paint, and the lighter you touch it, the less likely you are to induce swirls in the paint.
A great variation of the above drying technique is this………… flood rinse as above. Then, take a good QD, and mist it on the vehicle where you are going to blot, and lightly wipe dry. The QD will provide added lubrication, and will also help clean up any remaining dirt that you missed in the washing process……………. helping to minimize swirls! Plus, if the QD is one that adds some “POP”, you’ve already added that benefit.
When done washing and drying the vehicle, thoroughly wash, rinse, and air-dry, your wash mitts and towels after using. Using dirty mitt's and towels the next time you wash, defeats the whole purpose of even trying to do it right!
Anyhow, if you follow these steps, you'll spend a lot more time admiring that near "perfect finish", instead of polishing out swirls to get the finish back.
Happy washing!
AlexJet
New member
I have black Limited. I used to go and wash the vehicle at the gas station, but sometimes it's not a touchless. So I decide to do it myself. I can find "Simoniz", "Eagle One", "Black Magic" and "Armor All" at my autostore. Are you familiar with these products? What would you recommend?
General Lee
New member
Alexjet- You should be able to find Meguiars Glod Class Shampoo or Meguiars NXT car wash locally. They are probably the best OTC (over the counter) car wash's.
Get yourself a nice sheepskin wash mitt from Target or Walmart if you have them in Canada. (never been there so I don't know
) Follow Detail Guy's write up as he pretty much hit the nail on the head with his process. It may seem a little extreme but trust me it will pay off in the long run as far as your finish goes. Once you get a system down things will flow much easier for you.
Get yourself a nice sheepskin wash mitt from Target or Walmart if you have them in Canada. (never been there so I don't know
) Follow Detail Guy's write up as he pretty much hit the nail on the head with his process. It may seem a little extreme but trust me it will pay off in the long run as far as your finish goes. Once you get a system down things will flow much easier for you.
