Key stuck in ignition fix

[TejasRunner01]

I know this topic has been archived but I had this issue recently and would like to share my fix. I have a 97 sr5.

Like most people the key would get stuck in the ACC position and would not turn to release unless I disconnected the battery. My issue was actually pin pointed to a faulty ignition switch safety lock actuator (it is a small box connected to the ignition switch that keeps you from turning the key to the off position during operation) . What happened was the plunger would stay stiffly extended into the ignition switch cylinder as if I was still moving. Unless the power was disconnected from the battery, the key would stay stuck because the actuator was fully extended which locks the key in. My solution was to simply remove the panel under steering wheel and remove the little actuator box from the ignition switch which does disable that safety feature but I was fine with that because it was a free fix. It is only held in by two bolts. I took a picture of mine out, and the other pictures shows a close up of the small box that I removed.

I did want to mention that I had already taken the automatic shifter apart which showed me that it wasn't a problem with the small hook on the shift lock switch not engaging. That's why I decided to look at my ignition switch under the steering wheel which ended up being the problem. I hope this helps somebody! :lock1:

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

 

[alumarine]

I took the liberty of reformatting your thread
=============================

I know this topic has been archived but I had this issue recently and would like to share my fix. I have a 97 sr5.

Like most people the key would get stuck in the ACC position and would not
turn to release unless I disconnected the battery.

My issue was actually pin pointed to a faulty ignition switch safety lock actuator
(it is a small box connected to the ignition switch that keeps you from turning
the key to the off position during operation) .

What happened was the plunger would stay stiffly extended into the ignition switch cylinder as if I was still moving.

Unless the power was disconnected from the battery, the key would stay stuck because the actuator was fully extended which locks the key in.

My solution was to simply remove the panel under steering wheel and remove the little actuator box from the ignition switch which does disable
that safety feature but I was fine with that because it was a free fix.

It is only held in by two bolts. I took a picture of mine out, and the other pictures shows a close up of the small box that I removed.

I did want to mention that I had already taken the automatic shifter apart
which showed me that it wasn't a problem with the small hook on the shift
lock switch not engaging.

That's why I decided to look at my ignition switch under the steering wheel which ended up being the problem.
I hope this helps somebody!
=================================

 

[BrianSD_42]

I took the liberty of reformatting your thread
=================================

There was nothing wrong with the first post. How about a thank you to the member for posting something for the community instead of snarky criticism?

Your reformatting of it is obnoxious and will likely be interpreted as rude. This isn't Reddit. What's the point of doing that. I read it just fine. Not everything needs to be formatted for the users with a 10 second attention span who need paragraphs broken every 100 words. Plus as far as long posts go, OP's wasn't even that long or cluttered. The last thing we need is a bunch of nit picking corrections posted all over the forum.

2023 EDIT - wow I must not have had breakfast, definitely sound a bit harsher than necessary here.

 

[alumarine]

There was nothing wrong with the first post. How about a thank you to the member for posting something for the community instead of snarky criticism?

Your reformatting of it is obnoxious and will likely be interpreted as rude. This isn't Reddit. What's the point of doing that. I read it just fine. Not everything needs to be formatted for the users with a 10 second attention span who need paragraphs broken every 100 words. Plus as far as long posts go, OP's wasn't even that long or cluttered. The last thing we need is a bunch of nit picking corrections posted all over the forum.

Wasn't trying to be rude, and yes I should have put a thank you in as I found the content helpful.

Maybe it's my configuration but most of the text in the original literally went a foot to the right edge of my screen. I find that quite often on this site if there's large pictures. The text doesn't wrap. It's the only site I use that does this.

On my screen the first 2 lines are 531 characters across instead of a more readable 80 characters or so.

 

[TejasRunner01]

Interesting, I uploaded this from my phone. Well regardless I hope that this is helpful to someone!

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

 

[BrianSD_42]

. I find that quite often on this site if there's large pictures. The text doesn't wrap. It's the only site I use that does this.

Yes. This happens to me as well on this site, especially on phones

 

[jgue467]

So OP, does this fix leave a new feature of being able to remove the key while the vehicle is running or in any position? :cowboy:

 

[alumarine]

Interesting, I uploaded this from my phone. Well regardless I hope that this is helpful to someone!

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

I'm sure it will, it's a common problem.

And thanks!

 

[TejasRunner01]

So OP, does this fix leave a new feature of being able to remove the key while the vehicle is running or in any position? :cowboy:

I do believe so [emoji13] . It was funny because I had to think if this was a bad thing and contemplated not doing it at first, but then I thought when was the last time during driving that the key got turned off by accident.. That was a pretty easy question to answer so I proceeded to fix the issue haha.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

 

[jgue467]

Mine has the same feature for the same reason. I like it.

Super useful when off-roading and the keys are banging all over, quiets that down 100%.

Also useful when needing the set of keys for a quick visit to a mailbox, front door or whatever without shutting engine off.

You can also lock the vehicle with engine/ac running (for the dog or whomever) from the outside. Another nice feature!

 

[TejasRunner01]

I didn't even think of those reasons but that is pretty awesome awesome! Thanks sharing.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

 

[russman]

Easier fix!!

I know this topic has been archived but I had this issue recently and would like to share my fix. I have a 97 sr5.

Like most people the key would get stuck in the ACC position and would not turn to release unless I disconnected the battery. My issue was actually pin pointed to a faulty ignition switch safety lock actuator (it is a small box connected to the ignition switch that keeps you from turning the key to the off position during operation) . What happened was the plunger would stay stiffly extended into the ignition switch cylinder as if I was still moving. Unless the power was disconnected from the battery, the key would stay stuck because the actuator was fully extended which locks the key in. My solution was to simply remove the panel under steering wheel and remove the little actuator box from the ignition switch which does disable that safety feature but I was fine with that because it was a free fix. It is only held in by two bolts. I took a picture of mine out, and the other pictures shows a close up of the small box that I removed.

I did want to mention that I had already taken the automatic shifter apart which showed me that it wasn't a problem with the small hook on the shift lock switch not engaging. That's why I decided to look at my ignition switch under the steering wheel which ended up being the problem. I hope this helps somebody! :lock1:

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

Hey guys, just reviving this older thread. I wanted to first thank tejasrunner01 for the thread, because the safety pins in these older ignition mechanisms does indeed get stuck in the out position. That’s why mine was all fawked up. What I wanted to add, however, is that the REASON it gets stuck is simply because these mechanisms are getting old, and the original lubricant has broken down after thousands of cycles, and there is likely also gunk / dust built up. I took mine apart and identified the problem, but you know what? Just a quick spray of WD-40 takes care of it. In fact you can squirt the stuff in there without taking apart the mechanism.

So, all you need to do is squirt WD-40 in around the margins of that small plastic box, and you’re good to go. I also squirted some into my key hole directly and around the ignition mechanism and the whole puppy works WAY smoother now.

Just wanted to add my 2 cents.

Happy 4Runnering everyone! And happy 2019. -russman

 

[96RedRunner]

I've used WD40 in the past, because it is a wet lubricant you'll have to repeat this more often, a dry lubricant is better hands down.
I found that (3-In-One Lock Dry Lube) works much better. Being a spray will get into and clean those hard to get at places
leaves a graphite dry lubricant behind after liquid evaporates. Locksmith's recommend dry lube over wet.

 

[Nixid]

Had same key stuck issue and mine was the shifter issue.
Glad you posted that too.
"I did want to mention that I had already taken the automatic shifter apart which showed me that it wasn't a problem with the small hook on the shift lock switch not engaging."

 

[TejasRunner01]

I am pleased to hear that this helped someone. I really like the idea of trying to clean it. I wasn't really wanting to take it apart so this is a great alternative. Heck, I may even reinstall it if I take the time to do this again. Thanks everyone!

 

[rubemon]

Hello all. New member here. I have a 1996 4Runner, SR5. I've narrowed my key lock issue to the Key Interlock Solenoid. I have the replacement part. (The Actuator)

My question is how to I remove the 2 blue wires from the white connector? I don't want to simply yank them out for fear of leaving the metal pin inside the white plastic connector.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[sleepydad]

I am pleased to hear that this helped someone. I really like the idea of trying to clean it. I wasn't really wanting to take it apart so this is a great alternative. Heck, I may even reinstall it if I take the time to do this again. Thanks everyone!

I have needed this same technique 2x times now. seems the interlock solenoid has a 22 year life and then decides to act up. I have had zero issues with just leaving it plugged in but disconnected under the dash.

<iframe width="800" height="600" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ekuR4pzHJBE" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[brillo_76]

I mostly just graphite all my lock tumblers once or twice a year and mostly dont have an issue with any of the locks.

I have warn the key contacts off before though...

I wonder if that helps. However, good to know you can disconnect the solenoid if you need to until you fix the issue.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

 

[Brian.]

However, good to know you can disconnect the solenoid if you need to until you fix the issue.

Didn't work for me. Allowed me to get the key out, but the truck wouldn't start with that connector disconnected (99 limited). Thankfully I found my problem (misassembly of the shifter assembly after replacing the bushings).

 

[brillo_76]

Didn't work for me. Allowed me to get the key out, but the truck wouldn't start with that connector disconnected (99 limited). Thankfully I found my problem (misassembly of the shifter assembly after replacing the bushings).

That makes more since to me as solenoids mostly last a very long time. I was thinking the lock tumblers were sticking and the graphite keeps them having less resistance. However, bushings do wear out so misaligned assembly would cause the solenoid to stick as well.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk